Rear windows

[DiscoPhoto]

Interesting one....

95 D1

Intermittently working middle row windows

sometimes it works, sometimes it won't

I know what you're thinking at that point...but hold on




100% of the time they'll work if I depress the switch while cycling ignition

If it is relevant, I did not do DiscoMike's 90k service

 

[discostew]

I think your window lift ecu is failing. The battery positive for the rear window switches comes out of it. I have spliced a fused battery feed to the wire coming out of the window lift ecu. Havent had any of those cars come back because of it. Your going to have to find a good used one if you want to fix it like that. The ecu is no longer available.

 

[DiscoPhoto]

That's what I've been leaning towards, but I can't understand why it always works if I hold it down while cycling the ignition.

My good amigos at AB sell a jumper like you refer to. Eric said it was basically just a wire with a connector.

 

[fishEH]

That's what I've been leaning towards, but I can't understand why it always works if I hold it down while cycling the ignition.

My good amigos at AB sell a jumper like you refer to. Eric said it was basically just a wire with a connector.

It is. You need a vampire clip, a length of wire, and a butt splice connector.
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=18498&referrerid=13769

 

[SavageRover]

X3 on failing window ecu. I had the same thing happen to me, not something that is particularly fun to deal with while waiting for an on coming rainstorm...

 

[DiscoPhoto]

It's what I've expected, I was really trying to figure out why it would work when the ignition cycled. Doesn't make sense to me, unless by cycling the ignition it gives a larger voltage feed that can bridge the gap? Not sure...

 

[discostew]

That's what I've been leaning towards, but I can't understand why it always works if I hold it down while cycling the ignition.

My good amigos at AB sell a jumper like you refer to. Eric said it was basically just a wire with a connector.

I just make my own from a parts store fuse holder and tap into switched voltage coming out of the ign. switch. I'm wondering where the boys at AB are taking there battery voltage from. I need to find a better switched voltage feed that doesn't make any parallel circuits.

 

[discostew]

It is. You need a vampire clip, a length of wire, and a butt splice connector.
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=18498&referrerid=13769

That is soo much better. I had no idea that was the problem. Thanks for digging that out for us.

 

[akronk1]

How similar is the ecu location and board in a 2000 Dii? Wondering if this would work for the ft passenger window.

 

[discostew]

How similar is the ecu location and board in a 2000 Dii? Wondering if this would work for the ft passenger window.

Probably not the same issue. In the Disco1 the window lift supplies battery voltage to the rear window switches and its not the same battery feed that runs the front windows.

 

[ezzzzzzz]

The fix for me was pulling the window lift ecu (sits to the right of the engine ecu) located behind the glovebox. There are three 7mm nuts that come off easily once you've gotten them loosened. The one is the rear is a PITA to get to though. There are good instructions here so I won't repeat them. I found one solder joint that looked slightly 'cold' so I hit it with the soldering iron. The rear windows have worked flawlessly since.

 

[jymmiejamz]

PM me your number and we can talk through this. Have you changed your O2 sensors?

 

[Tugela]

The tech section (see link just below the front of the yellow Disco at the top of the page) has this to say about re-soldering the rear window ECU:

http://discoweb.org/window/index.htm

I followed these instructions a couple years ago and my rear windows have worked perfectly ever since.