I've searched and read some good information on the issue of worn-out ignition switches and possible fixes. I'd like to re-visit the subject as we all know it's not if but when we all will have the problem. I especially like the idea of getting away from the problematic "keyed" switch and going with a panel mounted rocker or toggle/button combo. I would like to (obviously) make the installation as inconspicuous as possible without necessarily hiding it. The unused switch locations (see pics) are where I'd like to start. Does someone have information on where to obtain switches that would fit in the slots where the blanks are? Although my need is not immediate, it is definitely something I will be doing on my truck. The rocker example shown is a 20A used in marine applications and comes in a variety of configurations. It would take two. I realize they would need to be heavier at 30A+ or used with relays. They're kind of pricey at $25-$30 each but with proper sourcing I think I could put a kit with instructions together for under $100. Any constructive input would be appreciated.
Remote Starter Switch(s)
- Thread starter daven5735
- Start date
I'm looking to do something like this in the same place, but a little simpler. For one thing, I've only got one blank in that switch panel.
I was told that as long as the switches can handle 12-20 amps, they'd be fine. I was directed to some 15 amp metal toggles, but told some mini metal toggles with the right rating would do the job.
I'm thinking 2 metal mini toggles, each mounted on the angled portion at the bottom of that panel. (underneath the existing two switches). One for ACC, the other for power.
I got a nice metal momentary push button switch that would mount the same way underneath my blank switch. (For starting.) It's a big switch, but the bulk of it fits where the blank switch is.
I read that someone here has done it before, so it should work. I'm just looking for a diagram or anything to show me which wires are which in the ignition. Can anybody point me to one?
I just decided to do this as a result of my latest problem. Of course I have problems turning the key occasionally, but jiggling usually fixed that. But last night it wouldn't start, just as I was needing to take my dogs to an emergency vet. (Coon fight.)
Turns out for some reason it thinks it is turned to ACC, even though it is in the off posistion, and the key is out. The battery had drained out, even though I'd been driving around earlier in the afternoon. Thankfully I have another vehicle.
*grumble*
So... anyone have a wiring diagram, so I can bypass the stupid thing?
I was told that as long as the switches can handle 12-20 amps, they'd be fine. I was directed to some 15 amp metal toggles, but told some mini metal toggles with the right rating would do the job.
I'm thinking 2 metal mini toggles, each mounted on the angled portion at the bottom of that panel. (underneath the existing two switches). One for ACC, the other for power.
I got a nice metal momentary push button switch that would mount the same way underneath my blank switch. (For starting.) It's a big switch, but the bulk of it fits where the blank switch is.
I read that someone here has done it before, so it should work. I'm just looking for a diagram or anything to show me which wires are which in the ignition. Can anybody point me to one?
I just decided to do this as a result of my latest problem. Of course I have problems turning the key occasionally, but jiggling usually fixed that. But last night it wouldn't start, just as I was needing to take my dogs to an emergency vet. (Coon fight.)
Turns out for some reason it thinks it is turned to ACC, even though it is in the off posistion, and the key is out. The battery had drained out, even though I'd been driving around earlier in the afternoon. Thankfully I have another vehicle.
*grumble*
So... anyone have a wiring diagram, so I can bypass the stupid thing?