Removing DII Engine

rycymru

Well-known member
Apr 10, 2008
58
0
Kentucky
2003 DII w/117k miles

I was hoping to get some tips on removing my engine and disconnecting it from the transmission. Many of the bolts are hard to reach and leave no room to turn a ratchet. Does anyone know of some ways to get to the bolts, do i need to remove the transmission cooler lines?

I have already:
Removed hood
Removed radiator
Disconnected all hoses and wires from engine
Removed upper intake

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

crown14

Well-known member
May 11, 2006
6,288
4
Clayton, NC
Remove the motor mounts, that will allow you to drop the motor down a couple inches and you can reach the bellhousing bolts that you cant get from underneath with a long extension/swivel socket

DONT FORGET to remove the 4 torque converter bolts before trying to seperate the engine/trans!
 

03D2

Well-known member
Jan 9, 2007
53
0
Dallas, TX
Thats about as good of advise as anyone can give you. I just finished swapping the engine in my D2 and other than being a pain in the ass to get to the tranny bolts on the side its a pretty straightforward process.

If you are pulling the wiring harness out with the engine, make sure you disconnect your O2 sensors and pull the harness up from under the truck into the engine bay so you don't jack up the harness.

Feel free to PM me if you have any specific questions
 

rycymru

Well-known member
Apr 10, 2008
58
0
Kentucky
Thanks for your help and advise. I have removed everything except the last few bolts on top of the transmission bell housing attached to the engine. I have tried a lot of things but its really hard to get a wrench or socket onto the last bolts. is there anything i am missing? Even after removing the motor mounts and lowering the engine i can see the bolts better, but cannot reach them. I will try again tomorrow, but if anybody else has any experience with reaching these please let me know.

I have supplied a few photos of the bolts i am trying to reach.
 

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Chris Nyberg

Well-known member
Mar 1, 2009
91
0
I found the top 2 were the worst and I used a closed end wrench and the bend on it allowed access but was like 1/4 turn a time, the next ones down we used a swivel socket witha 3 foot extention and as my buddy was feeding it through I was on top lineing them up. Once they were lined up came out fine. Good Luck and always just be patient. Chris
 
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rycymru

Well-known member
Apr 10, 2008
58
0
Kentucky
Thanks Chris, I'll try that tonight or tomorrow and ill see how it goes. Hopefully it won't take too long.
 

KyleT

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2007
6,059
8
39
Fort Worth, TEXAS
rycymru said:
2003 DII w/117k miles

I was hoping to get some tips on removing my engine and disconnecting it from the transmission. Many of the bolts are hard to reach and leave no room to turn a ratchet. Does anyone know of some ways to get to the bolts, do i need to remove the transmission cooler lines?

I have already:
Removed hood
Removed radiator
Disconnected all hoses and wires from engine
Removed upper intake

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Reinstall said parts, insert key into ignition, drive to shop to have it replaced.

or

pick up phone, dial number for tow truck, tell driver to take it to shop to have motor changed.

if you think there is no room to get to bolts on a D2.... :banghead:

its not too bad of a job in reality. take the upper intake off if you cant get the belhousing bolts
 

11b4v

Well-known member
May 5, 2009
257
17
N. Alabama
have you tried using an multitude of ratchet extensions and universals and come in from side/bottom?

This has worked for me in the past with a Ford Bronco.
 

rycymru

Well-known member
Apr 10, 2008
58
0
Kentucky
I got the bolts out. I was just asking if there was a few tricks to make the job easier on myself. Now i need to break down the motor and have a machine shop test it.
 

carlosz

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
581
0
Annandale,Va
normally since I know the engine will be torn apart I remove the heads, that gives me acess to those bolts, I reverse the installation... short block
 

rycymru

Well-known member
Apr 10, 2008
58
0
Kentucky
After removing the engine, there was coolant in cylinder 3. I cannot see i slipped liner, but i may have a cracked block. I have found another block in case i get bad news from the machine shop in a few days.

If i do need a new block, what should i have done to make sure it lasts another 100k? New cam, Head work, ect. I need to keep the costs down, but if it needs to be done i will do it. Thanks for all the input.