Removing Frame Rust

[Zinhead1]

While changing out a bum O2 sensor, I found out my truck has a significant amount of surface rust on the. Wanting to keep the truck for a long time, I am going to clean up the rust and cover it up before the winter months, but was wondering what was the best way to do this.

The easiest way seems to apply a layer of POR15 or Eastwood Rust Converter to the affected parts. The more time-consuming method would be to attack the rust areas with a drill and a wire-wheel, then paint it over with a rust resistant paint. Going through the archives, it looks like people have tried similar solutions with differing results. Since the truck is a keeper, any suggestions as to what will be the best long-term solution?

 

[ratboy]

have the chassis hot dip galvanized.

 

[varova87]

the frame on my truck has a bit of surface rust on it as well. I plan on sandblasting the parts I can get to without removing the body, and doing a POR15 treatment.

 

[burn_e]

have the chassis hot dip galvanized.

+1

thats what most of the Defender guys doing to make their cars ready for eternity.

 

[Zinhead1]

Thanks for the recommendation, but galvanizing the chassis is not a realistic option at the present time. A wire brush sounds like the best option at this point.

 

[Le shed]

If you have a D2 you will notice that the chassis rusts very quickly. There was a strike at the factory that made the D2 chassis for LR and so they outsourced and the welding is atrocious and the paint like tooth paste.
Mine was 3 years old and had tons of surface rust. There is no other way but to get under there and degrease, wire brush, degrease again and then POR15 or some such paint. Make sure you get the top rails of the chassis as there are loads of places for mud and water to sit. Did mine at 5 years old with POR15 and it is still good. No flaking or rust coming through.
Other places to look are up in the top front of the rear wheel arches and the shelf/lip across the back that the fuel tank protection plate bolts to at the front. Waxoyl helps too every year or so.
Good luck
Bill B

 

[Zinhead1]

That is very disappointing. My 97 D1 over 8 years had almost no rust on the frame despite the same amount of use as my 04.

 

[Roach]

I just spent a full weekend with the wire brush, degreaser, brush, degreaser and 3 pints of POR-15. I hit all the seams, etc. I even dropped my Bottorf sliders, did the sills and door jambs and stripped the sliders down to bare metal, and 2 more pints of the POR. Chicago salt does quite a number on these trucks. Very plesed with the results, and in the late spring I'll probably hit 'em again.

 

[ratboy]

Thanks for the recommendation, but galvanizing the chassis is not a realistic option at the present time.

 

[KevinNY]

Waxoyl, done by a shop that knows what they are doing. I did my '04 D2 and it was perfect after a couple of New England winters. Even my OME springs were still good and anyone from the north knows how quick their powder coat falls apart.

 

[nosivad_bor]

Thread revival,

Eric, I am about to do some sanding and repainting of my disco's frame. How did the POR15 hold up?

Any other paints recommended. I just have light rust, but want to make sure its sealed up.

I'm looking for a good paint that will last a few years before I need to retouch.


Regards,
Rob

 

[listerdiesel]

Just a note to the thread in general:

We picked up a good chassis/frame from a breaker and had it shot blasted and Hot Zinc sprayed, then powder coated in semi-gloss black.

My running chassis is OK, but I have a plan to swap chassis next year when we have a dry month.

The spare has sat outside two-three years now, still looks fine and no rust anywhere.

I realise that this is not an option for everyone, but there are a lot of chassis being scrapped these days, mainly insurance write-downs, and a good late chassis could be a lifeline, especially if you have good body etc on the car.

Peter

 

[Jake1996D1]

Thread revival,

Eric, I am about to do some sanding and repainting of my disco's frame. How did the POR15 hold up?

Any other paints recommended. I just have light rust, but want to make sure its sealed up.

I'm looking for a good paint that will last a few years before I need to retouch.


Regards,
Rob

I use KBS on everything - it's pretty much the same as Por 15.
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/

I have used their "Rust Blast" and "Aqua Klean" products as well. The rust blast would work good on places you cant get to by hand to clean up.

 

[nosivad_bor]

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/frame-coater-kit.html

That kit is just what I am looking for. I think I'll need two kits because I'll be painting the axles, various bars and rods, in addition to the frame.

 

[Jake1996D1]

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/frame-coater-kit.html

That kit is just what I am looking for. I think I'll need two kits because I'll be painting the axles, various bars and rods, in addition to the frame.

Yea thats a pretty good price. If you dont use the second kit all the way you can keep it for bumpers, sliders or other suspension parts.

 

[crown14]

coatings, LOL

What is "rust" anyhow?

 

[RoverbyProxy]

Spoke with a guy a couple months bach who is doing dry ice blasting, have yet to see how good of a job it does but is supposed to be much better than sand blasting.

 

[kennith]

I hate rust.

Every year, I inspect the frame.

When I find an issue, I degrease and thoroughly clean the area. Then, I use a Dremel with those fine stainless wire brushes to slowly burn away bad paint and knock surface rust off without eating up the metal. After that, I carefully scuff the area with a fine sanding sponge and wash it all with MAFS cleaner and microfiber towels.

Any completely bare areas are treated with a very light amount of rust converter, just in case.

The Dremel is a bit slow, but it's gentle enough to prevent too much wear or scarring, and will melt the edges after paint chips are removed. I primarily use a sanding sponge because I don't like the way sandpaper feels, but they are quite good at getting around the factory welds and spatter without catching. MAFS cleaner is an excellent pre-paint, and unlike dedicated products, is highly pressurized to help blast contaminants away.

As for paint, I use the Rustoleum Professional gray primer and matte black top coat. You can buy it nearly anywhere. It's not a fancy coating, and it's no permanent solution, but it's good, and a damned sight better than you might think when carefully applied.

They have also fitted the newer cans with improved nozzles, which is very nice.

So long as you thoroughly clean your frame at least once a month and after any nasty outings, as well as give it a cursory inspection in potential problem areas, this treatment is all that's needed to keep it all in very good shape. Touch-ups can be handled anywhere for only a few dollars.

Keeping it very clean is the best way to prevent rust in the first place, and I've noted that trim restorer can help revitalize the factory paint where it still remains.

Cheers,

Kennith

 

[kc disco guy]

Best shit on the market. http://www.safestrustremover.com/default.asp

 

[KyleT]

rust, whats rust?