This weekend I'm replacing my rear hub. BTW, thanks Will for the hub. The only thing that I'm worried about is removing the hub from the axle. What's the best way to do this if it's seized up? I don't have a press or anything like that.
Removing the hub from the axle
- Thread starter Big Papa
- Start date
air hammer. you might be able to whack it with a hammer or something, but I would be afraid of messing up the threads or mushrooming it.
soak it with PB or some other penetrating lube .
You will also need a pretty good impact to bust off the nut.
soak it with PB or some other penetrating lube .
You will also need a pretty good impact to bust off the nut.
Maybe I can remove it with a mallet, some how without damaging anything. I've got a pretty good sized breaker bar, hopefully that can crack the axle nut.
If you dont have air tools and a puller, I would suggest taking the hub off with the axle and taking it to someone who has a hydraulic press. I cant see them charging more than $10 to push it out.
A hub puller is vital to owning and wheeling a D2. They make that job soooooooo easy. Snap on sells a nice one.
You can buy a 3 legged puller from harbor freight for $10. I have removed 4 hubs with mine. In 3 cases when the hub popped out of the axle case it popped off the axle too. In the final instance I had to slam the hub/axle assembly on a 2x4 to separate them.
chemtool said:
I'm interested in this tool. Is it a 3 jaw puller?
http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/pullers.html?p=2
I can't seem to find the exact one on the snap one website, but this is similiar to the one I use and can be found at sears. It pulls the hub and seperates from the axle.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00960572000P?vName=Tools&cName=Auto&MechanicsTools&sName=Auto%20Specialty%20Tools&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00960572000P?vName=Tools&cName=Auto&MechanicsTools&sName=Auto%20Specialty%20Tools&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a
Ok, going to get this tool before I get started. It should make this job a lot easier.
What's insane is the dealer quoted me $650 for the repair, when I just bought a rear hub from Will Tillery delivered for $118.
If I go slow and take my time, I think I can get it done within a few hrs, including the beer breaks.:drool:
What's insane is the dealer quoted me $650 for the repair, when I just bought a rear hub from Will Tillery delivered for $118.
If I go slow and take my time, I think I can get it done within a few hrs, including the beer breaks.:drool:
a new hub is lke 450 or something crazy from the dealer, plus labor, so thats pretty typical.
Is it leaky or making noise?
Is it leaky or making noise?
Yes this is a stupid setup I changed the hubs on my Chevy tow rig and they have an o-ring on the inside that keeps all the water and shit out so they don"t rust up solid and they just slide out with your hands
My concern is using either of these pullers is that by using the axle as the pressure point are you not putting a ton of stress on your spider gears and other diff internal parts?
My concern is using either of these pullers is that by using the axle as the pressure point are you not putting a ton of stress on your spider gears and other diff internal parts?
no, unbolt the hub, whack it from the backside with a hammer to get it out, then use the puller to pop the axleshaft off. (or hit with big hammer or something so you dont mushroom the tip)
oh and jack it up a little before you pop it out so it doesnt dump diff oil on you.
oh and jack it up a little before you pop it out so it doesnt dump diff oil on you.
KyleT said:
It's been leaking for awhile now. I figured I'd pull it, and see if it's just the O Ring. Dealer said it was the hub, but I take their advice like a grain of salt.
I'm just going to follow the RAVE CD step by step.
Replacing the hubs are easy as long as you have the proper tools like 1/2" impact to remove the hub nut and a 1 1/4" socket. Or get a long breaker bar like this:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200328359_200328359
Also you need to torque the nut to 360 lbs. The closest budget torque wrench like that I could fine is this 300 lb one from HF (again I have used this and it is a good tool, made in Taiwan not china). I torque it to 300 lbs then a bit more:
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-808.html
Also a good long fine toothed ratchet for the 4 hub bolts is a must. If you can't afford a $200 snap on 25" SHLF80 then this Titan model is great:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200378681_200378681
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200328359_200328359
Also you need to torque the nut to 360 lbs. The closest budget torque wrench like that I could fine is this 300 lb one from HF (again I have used this and it is a good tool, made in Taiwan not china). I torque it to 300 lbs then a bit more:
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-808.html
Also a good long fine toothed ratchet for the 4 hub bolts is a must. If you can't afford a $200 snap on 25" SHLF80 then this Titan model is great:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200378681_200378681
Last edited:
gmookher said:
I figured so, I ordered a puller. Unfortunately, I've shroomed an axle before by doing that....:ack:
Big Papa said:
Depends on what you hit it with and where you hit it:
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=51568