I replaced my water pump and all the hoses and stuff that go along with it (including the thermostat and belt), but now my engine won't start. It will turn over, but is not firing at all. Any idea what could be causing this? :ack:
Replaced water pump now engine won't start
- Thread starter RayDunn
- Start date
Oh yeah, 95 Disco...
The cap is on and wires connected, I'll take a look and see if I notice anything on the timing. Is there anything in particular that I should see?
Also, There is a buzzer sound for about a second when I turn the key to the off position. None of these issues existed before the replacement.
Thanks
The cap is on and wires connected, I'll take a look and see if I notice anything on the timing. Is there anything in particular that I should see?
Also, There is a buzzer sound for about a second when I turn the key to the off position. None of these issues existed before the replacement.
Thanks
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I assume you removed the dist when changing the thermostat. If so, did you remove wires from the cap? Check that all wires are tightly plugged into the cap.
Cap can be on but not on correctly. The contact edge of the dist housing has an indentation that the cap has a corresponding fitting.
My guess is that you removed the whole distributor and that you put it back in 180 degress off (common to do). Turn engine so that crank shows #1 cyl at TDC then pull dist cap and see if rotor is pointing at #1 wire on cap.
Cap can be on but not on correctly. The contact edge of the dist housing has an indentation that the cap has a corresponding fitting.
My guess is that you removed the whole distributor and that you put it back in 180 degress off (common to do). Turn engine so that crank shows #1 cyl at TDC then pull dist cap and see if rotor is pointing at #1 wire on cap.
Pulled the cap up with the wires still attached to remove the thermostat. I'll recheck the wires outside of the distributer again in case they're loose. This is a beginners question, but how would I check if #1 cylinder is at TDC without being able to see it?
Could tightening the fan and turning the pulley at the same time (as little as possible, but still happended) cause the timing to be off?
Could tightening the fan and turning the pulley at the same time (as little as possible, but still happended) cause the timing to be off?
there should be a TDC mark on the main pully. (anyone know what it looks like?) and with that aligned, try putting the dist in again. I have done this before (not on a disco) and it took me forever ti figure out that I had put the dist in wrong.
cheers,
Blair
cheers,
Blair
Did you NOT remove the distributor?
If you didn't, insure that cap is on correctly and wires plugged in. Also, if the hold-down nut for dist was loose or loosened then timing could off.
IF YOU DID REMOVE THE DIST: For checking TDC then look at front of engine at crank pulley and turn engine till pointer on cover points to TDC (or 0). Remember, the #1 cyl will be at TDC twice during four stroke rotation. If it's not running now, try removing and reinserting dist at the "other" TDC and point towards #1 post on dist. Then adjust timing with light and tighten hold-down nut when at 6 degrees BTDC or whatever your timing is supposed to be per engine bay sticker.
If you didn't, insure that cap is on correctly and wires plugged in. Also, if the hold-down nut for dist was loose or loosened then timing could off.
IF YOU DID REMOVE THE DIST: For checking TDC then look at front of engine at crank pulley and turn engine till pointer on cover points to TDC (or 0). Remember, the #1 cyl will be at TDC twice during four stroke rotation. If it's not running now, try removing and reinserting dist at the "other" TDC and point towards #1 post on dist. Then adjust timing with light and tighten hold-down nut when at 6 degrees BTDC or whatever your timing is supposed to be per engine bay sticker.
Took the distributer off and on about 20 times making sure that it's sitting correctly. Took each wire off the cap and reinstalled. Unplugged and reconnected every connection that I can see. STILL NO START. I'll try to verify the timing, but don't see how that could have gotten changed with what I did. If you have any other ideas let me know. Thanks for the help so far.
Have you checked all your fuses? Pressure at the fuel rail? Did you mangle any of the connections at the coil? Test the coil->distributor wire for resistance... maybe it's no good.
fal said:
He also replaced the water pump. If he doesn't have the right tools or technique then it is certainly possible that he felt it would be easier with it out of the way. R&R the dist including reset timing is a 15 min job for me. Just make sure engine is at TDC before and don't turn the engine.
RayDunn said:
Since you never touched the fuel system I doubt that it is a fuel prob. However you could easily remove a plug and check to see if it's wet. It'll be soaked by now with all the turning over...
I assume you mean you R&R the dist cap 20 times and I assume you also checked that the coil wire is connected to the coil. Or am I wrong and you have removed the distributor 20 times???
Have you checked that you're getting spark?
IF no spark:
Check the wires on your ignition module. Are they connected to the module. If you have not remotely mounted the module it will still be on the side of the distributor opposite the vaccuum advance. They are small and often can get brittle and break with heat and age (and moving it around).
If you are getting spark then:
I still bet you're 180 degrees off with distributor timing (of course, this is ONLY possible if you removed the distributor and put it back wrong).
Maybe have a look under the distributor cap and make sure the carbon piece in the centre with the spring is still there. I had one fall out and you won't get a spark .
Or may sure it isn't stuck up in it's hole on the cap.
Or may sure it isn't stuck up in it's hole on the cap.
You may want to check the inertia switch. I?m not sure where it is on a 95 disco, but on my 99 it is on the passenger firewall. If it was bumped than you will not have any spark or fuel going to the engine. Good luck.
I got it running today by cleaning the metal piece under the distributer cap. I have no idea why this worked, but it fired up after cleaning that and the carbon spring on the underside of the cap (Haynes manual left that little bit of knowledge out). Thanks for advice.
The Haynes manual is often only good for use as paper to start a campfire.RayDunn said:
But the carbon spring and the metal part of the rotor button are essential for the electric current tranfer form the distributer cap to the coil.
If fouled it doesn't work real good , as you found out