Requirements needed to test Diesel Engine

Zebra

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Jul 15, 2007
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Louisa Va
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: GORDONSVILLE VA
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Project Diesel Series
I purchased this Series awhile back I still have not started to work on it yet. It has a mitsu diesel engine and trans as well I think. It was in storage since mid 70's. Looking around I spotted a new solenoid on the seat and saw old one mounted in compartment under passenger seat where battery was mounted no wires attached. I was looking at the starter and its a 24 volt starter and noticed there was a solenoid on starter as well. The gauges and wiring look to be original but I noticed the plunger for starting was not present.I'm not a mechanic by trade but dont understand why 2 solenoids or where they bypassing the one on starter cause there was no wiring there as well.Wondering why a 24 volt starter would be needed for a small straight 4 compression maybe?
I will eventually figure it out but I will take any advice I can get.


George

If I wanted to check out the Diesel in this Series. I would only need to feed current to the starter with a remote switch and see that there was current to glow plugs. Is this correct?

The starter is 24 volt I know this.So current to glow plugs should be 12 volt ? Would it or should it be positive or neg ground.

I have not confirmed but I think orginally this was 12 volt petro.
 

antichrist

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Sep 7, 2004
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How do you know it's a 24v starter? Is the Rover wired for two batteries in such a way that 24v goes to the starter?
Is the starter marked 24v? If it is and the Rover isn't wired for 24v, a 24v starter might have been rebuilt with 12v parts.
If it is indeed 24v I would think they would be 24v glow plugs, but I'm not familiar with the engine so can't offer anything on that.
Make sure whether the glow plugs are for being wired in series or parallel, Land Rovers used both kinds. Mitsubishi may or may not have. If they are meant to be wired in series but are wired parallel, you'll burn them out with 12v.
If it's been sitting since the mid 70's I'd remove the injectors and get some oil in the cylinders before cranking it. Just make sure most of it is out before you crank it with the injectors back in.
 
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Zebra

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antichrist said:
How do you know it's a 24v starter? Is the Rover wired for two batteries in such a way that 24v goes to the starter?
Is the starter marked 24v? If it is and the Rover isn't wired for 24v, a 24v starter might have been rebuilt with 12v parts.
If it is indeed 24v I would think they would be 24v glow plugs, but I'm not familiar with the engine so can't offer anything on that.
Make sure whether the glow plugs are for being wired in series or parallel, Land Rovers used both kinds. Mitsubishi may or may not have. If they are meant to be wired in series but are wired parallel, you'll burn them out with 12v.
If it's been sitting since the mid 70's I'd remove the injectors and get some oil in the cylinders before cranking it. Just make sure most of it is out before you crank it with the injectors back in.

Thanks Tom

The only real facts I know is that the starter indeed is 24 volt.
I'm wondering if this truck has even run since the conversion.
The battery box is empty and no leads are present as far as connecting starter etc. If I were to guess I would say originally the truck was a 2.25 petrol. I guess a sure way would to check gen/alt to see what its putting out. I'm guessing that if I provided 24 volt to starter and only 12 volt to glow plugs only I would be safe to try.Engine turns freely and I have cleaned and reinstalled the injectors. The truck has ignition switch with no key. Tell me if I'm correst but on original deisel/petro models the petro used the plunder type soleniod fire wall scenario and the diesel actually used solenoid off starter.

Thanks for the input

George
 

marc olivares

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Apr 20, 2004
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if it were me, i would approach this project like a new engine install, meaning, i would check everything that connects the motor to the truck.
if you have (2) 12v batteries ran in series, then the whole system is 24 volts. if you have a 24v setup with a separate 12v battery then maybe would the glow plugs be 12v, but this is highly unlikely.
for basic start up, change the oil, make sure NOT to over fill it, connect your batteries and start. BUT, make sure you have a way of killing the air on the motor in case it's setup incorrectly and it starts to run away on you. A phone book against the air intake will do the trick nicely, just dont let it get sucked in. i once had a Detroit 8v92 ingest a phone book and it really did a number on the blower :)
good luck
 

antichrist

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You can find out what it was originally by the vehicle serial number.
24v to the starter is ok, even if it's 12v, as long as you don't spin it too long. The Rover diesels had a solenoid integral with the starter. They also had a preheat light on the dash.
Marc's suggestions are good, but I'd still lube the cylinders. A new engine has assembly lube, if it was done right, but one that was run then shut down for decades has lost that.
If fuel was left in it the tank, lines and injection pump are probably cloged from bacteria that grows in diesel.
 

Zebra

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Veh # 144002395 2.25 petro
Voltage reg VR-102 12 volt neg

Looks like orig truck was 12 volt gas engine

Wish it was warmer outside this weather sucks