Returning P0130 code

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,179
69
Raleigh, NC
I just replaced my Ypipe due to a seized on O2 (Bank 2 sensor 1) The Ypipe I got already had O2's in it so I went with it.
Drove it work the next day.. No problems. Went out to lunch and got the P0130 code. ( Bank 1 sensor 1)
First I tried cleaning the connectors with CRC.. No change. Code comes on after every restart.
So I replaced the O2 with another spare used O2. Took it out for a test drive and within 3 miles I got the P0130 again. I have one more spare O2 sensor to try..

What else can it be?? I do have a slow, but constant oil leak, but the connectors werent soaked..
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,179
69
Raleigh, NC
Nobody???

I traced the wires back as far as I could behind the intake before the disappeared into the harness. They look ok, but the flex tubing is missing so its just wires, no plastic cover.

My options so far are:
1, splice in a new connector
2, replace both 02 sensors
3, replace the ECU... I read somewhere the ECU can get fried.

How likely is it that its bad wires? I figured if they were bad, I would see the cut or short between the connector and harness..

Also If I do have to replace the ECU. Is there anything I should know other than having to take it to a mechanic to have it programmed? Im probably just going to buy one off ebay or any of the parts breakers.
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,179
69
Raleigh, NC
One more thing.. Im graphing the o2's in real time and the faulty sensor has voltage, but is flat lining.. If I attempt to drive it as is. It will kick a CEL and the voltage will drop to 0. If I let it idle It just flat lines.
 

ezzzzzzz

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2010
604
7
SE Va
Are you sure you're looking at the bank 1 sensor 1, not 2? If it is flat lining then it appears the sensor is dead from an operation standpoint. Swap bank 1 sensor 1 with bank 2 sensor 1 to see if the problem follows.
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,179
69
Raleigh, NC
P0130. Bank1 sensor 1. Drivers side pre cat.

Swapping the sensors was my plan for today.

Im hoping I can get the passenger side out. The whole reason Im in this mess is because of swapping out the ypipe due to a seized and rounded off passenger side o2. Luckily the drivers side just came right out.
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,179
69
Raleigh, NC
Swapped the drivers side and passenger side pre cat sensors. Now both are flat lining at 0v. The only code is a P1129. Its not a hard code either.

I guess Im going to have to get 2 new sensors and a new ECU??
 

number9

Well-known member
Nov 21, 2015
196
0
Coastal Georgia
Fyi.

p0130 o2 sensor circuit malfunction (bank 1, sensor 1) front sensor lh bank stoichiometric ratio outside
operating band

p1129 o2 sensors swapped bank to bank (sensor 1) front sensors transposed
......
 

ezzzzzzz

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2010
604
7
SE Va
I have a hard time believing you've lost 2 O2's in just a swap. Pull the negative lead of the battery and let it sit for 30 minutes or so to fully clear the ECU. Erasing codes alone may not resolve the problem. This is speculation at this point.
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,179
69
Raleigh, NC
I have a hard time believing you've lost 2 O2's in just a swap. Pull the negative lead of the battery and let it sit for 30 minutes or so to fully clear the ECU. Erasing codes alone may not resolve the problem. This is speculation at this point.[/QUOTE

I ordered two new front sensors. Ill disconnect the battery while I swap in the new sensors and see what happens.
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,179
69
Raleigh, NC
Update:

I installed two new Bosch sensors. As well as splice in a new connector on the drivers side. Had the battery disconnected for a few days leading up to this.
Started the truck up and it was still stumbling. Checked for codes and had two soft codes.
P0300
P0301
So no more O2 codes, but now a cylinder 1 misfire??
How did that happen? Im tempted to drive it and see if It actually does set off the CEL..

I guess the next thing is to pull the spark plug, but this is getting ridiculous!
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,179
69
Raleigh, NC
Replaced the spark plug in cylinder 1 and the misfire is gone. The old spark plug was very dark. Covered in carbon.
Drove it about 8 miles tonight with no stumbling or codes. Im going to replace the other 7 plugs, which was on my list to do anyway.. and drive the truck as much as I can this week to make sure the issue is gone.

My guess is that driving for a 400 miles or so on a dead 02 sensor fouled the plugs....
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,179
69
Raleigh, NC
So after the trucks first real wheeling trip since all this happened, It started idling rough again. No CEL, but this morning I scanned anyway and got P0300 and P0301. So my cylinder 1 misfire is back... I havent pulled the plug yet since the Hurricane is moving in and weather is nasty. Maybe I can get it done on Sunday.

So what should I be looking at next? Coolant level is right where it should be. As is the oil level. Fuel Injector?
 

squirt

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2008
824
13
Los Angeles
If you have a compression tester, the least invasive first step would be to check the compression on that cylinder. Not the most likely cause, but a good base before you start pulling parts.

Next best place to start is plug wires. If they're old or of unknown age, just get a new set of Kingsborne 8mm wires and eliminate that as a possibility. Cheap enough, and good maintenance. Sure, you can play games swapping plug wires around to see if the miss follows, but for ~$35, I'd rather have new wires.

If that doesn't lick it, I'd swap the coil packs from side to side and see if the miss follows.

If that doesn't solve it, I'd be looking at the injector for that cylinder. It may be clogged, sticking(open or closed), intermittent, or have a vacuum leak at the o-rings. The wiring to the injector can also be damaged or the contacts corroded. All can be analyzed and tested by taking off the upper intake and swapping some locations. (only cost would be a $20 set of o-rings...also good maintenance... and a plenum gasket if you're so inclined)

If you still haven't solved it, as was the case for me in the past, you may be dealing with a worn cam lobe, defective lifter, or damaged valvetrain component. Particularly if the issue only shows up at high revs. But that's getting way ahead of ourselves.
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,764
564
Seattle
If they're old or of unknown age, just get a new set of Kingsborne 8mm wires and eliminate that as a possibility. Cheap enough, and good maintenance. Sure, you can play games swapping plug wires around to see if the miss follows, but for ~$35, I'd rather have new wires.

As a side note (and shameless advertising plug), if you choose to pursue this option I have a complete set of relatively new 8mm Kingsbourne wires in snazzy yellow that are in great shape (if a little dirty) that I would part with for $30 shipped, 2-day USPS.
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,179
69
Raleigh, NC
As a side note (and shameless advertising plug), if you choose to pursue this option I have a complete set of relatively new 8mm Kingsbourne wires in snazzy yellow that are in great shape (if a little dirty) that I would part with for $30 shipped, 2-day USPS.

I literally ordered new wires an hour ago! Thank you though...
 

SMLE

Well-known member
Aug 21, 2014
107
2
GA
I've fought this exact issue for a while now.


Had the P0130 and P0300, P0301, P0303 & P0305.


Also had a P0171 (lean).


Symptoms included the very obvious misfires and black soot out the tailpipe during startup.


I dug into it and found fouled plugs just as you did, but I also found my O2 sensors were fouled with black soot as well.


First thing I did was clean the plugs and drive it some more. Misfires went away, but returned after about 100 miles or so, at which point I found that my plugs had fouled with black soot again.


I bought new cheap O2 sensors from carparts.com (20 bucks a piece) and replaced both front and rear on the driver side. All problems went away for several hundred miles. A p0134 showed up and the lean p0171 returned. No other symptoms, so kept driving it. The p0134 code eventually went away by itself. Still have the p0171. I intend to eventually get it to a shop to smoke test for vacuum leaks, but it's running pretty good, so other things keep taking priority...
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,179
69
Raleigh, NC
Replaced the plug on #1 cylinder and all the wires. No more codes. but it still has a bit of a rough idle.. Not the same stumble as before, its more of an up and down idle. Not too bad, but I can notice it. Mostly hear it.

Drives perfect. No issues while moving. Only idling.

I plan on driving it to work this week, just to see if it comes back, or gets worse.. URE is this coming weekend and Id like to know if the truck will be ok to go.