Rhino lining over Dynamat?

[AndrewClarke]

I'm trying to sort out soundproofing for my 110, and have been wondering about the possibility of Rhinolining (Herculining,Line-X, etc.) over Dynamat or similar product. I don't want carpet in my truck but do want some more soundproofing.

I'm tempted to spend the cash and go with the Wright Offroad moulded mats in the front, but that would still leave me looking for a solution for the back. I don't think Rhino lining by itself is going to do much for the insulation.

Thanks,
- Andrew.

 

[az_max]

nope, probably won't work. If the dynamat lifts, it will pull the lining with it. From what I remember, Rhino lining does a pretty good job of soundproofing anyway. How about rhinolining with a mat on top of it?

 

[scottjal]

You don't have to stop at one coat of the liner stuff, three or four would accomplish the same or better noise deadening properties of the dynomat I bet.

 

[Justin Kurosaki]

Yeah, definitely nix the Rhino over the dynamat. The Rhino will add mass to the panels which will help quite a bit soundwise. I did my Series III in Herculiner (DIY version of Rhino) and it looked pretty sharp. I did both sides of all the interior panels (floor, seat box, tub, and bulkhead).

You will need to be careful when spraying thicker coats though as some things might not go back together as well (assuming that you are removing your floorpanels, seat box, etc.)

Personally, I'd do both Rhino and the rubber mats.


On a side note, If I can get enough peeps together in AZ, I will try getting a group buy going for rhino-ing my D2 as well. I'll probably dynamat the roof and doors afterwards.

Good luck,
Justin

 

[Disco_Stu]

It WILL definitely work. I did it in a defender, two years later no issue. When I applied it I made sure to pop any air bubbles that were in the dynomat, and I actually used a garden weasel(it seemed the best tool) to perforate the dynomat. Then the shop who was doing the spray in liner, said they were going to use some kind of chemical on the aluminum to help it adhere, but I never asked any more about it.

 

[Justin Kurosaki]

How did it look? Could you see outline of the dynamat?

 

[Augie71]

It WILL definitely work. I did it in a defender, two years later no issue. When I applied it I made sure to pop any air bubbles that were in the dynomat, and I actually used a garden weasel(it seemed the best tool) to perforate the dynomat. Then the shop who was doing the spray in liner, said they were going to use some kind of chemical on the aluminum to help it adhere, but I never asked any more about it.

Which product did you use, Line-X or Rhino Lining?

 

[AndrewClarke]

Hey, thanks for the responses. Good to hear from someone who's actually done it. Thanks Disco_Stu. I too would be interested in knowing if you can see the outline of the dynamat in your Rhino Liner. That's one of my main concerns, as is the rhino lining not permanently bonding to the aluminium, or the rhino liner pulling the aluminium off the dynamat.

I've heard mixed results on how well Line-X, Rhino Liner, etc. actually deadens sound which is why I'm not rushing off to do it. That and I'm still not 100% convinced I'm going to like the look of it in my truck when it's done.

AZ_max, well what mat do you suggest I put on top of the rhino liner? Dynamat is unfortunately designed to go under carpet and would look absolutely hideous uncovered. And if I'm going to put rhino liner in the back, it's partially to avoid also having to buy a load space mat. Seems redundant.

What I'd really like is a material like this http://www.b-quiet.com/vcomp.html but one with an adhesive backing like dyanamat or brown bread or something, instead of a water absorbent foam. Something I can stick down, that won't soak up water, that will reduce noise and vibration, and that has a wearable surface. It just doesn't seem like that product exists. I could use this VComp over top of Dynamat, and I might, but I'm still concerned about the foam filling up with water.

- Andrew.

 

[fire1427]

I rhinolined inside and outside a jeep cj it was super quiet doing both in and out , I had the body off so I dropped it at the dealer and he did an awesome job even did around the soft top mounting then replaced the snaps with longer screws(never asked for this) worked awesome for cleanup after mudding ...be sure to leave a way to drain interior after hosedown

 

[Disco_Stu]

You couldn't see the outline, but then again I purposefully only left a small (approx 1/4") gap between sheets, the whole interior was done, then it was line-x over top by the actuall line-X shop. I never took any pics of it finished but I do have this one that shows getting started with the dynomat.

 

[kennith]

Get some good adhesive, and compress sheet aluminum over the dynamat. Fix it strong with either stainless rivets or bolts all the way around. Then simply rhino line over that. Any good body man can accomplish this, or a sheet metal shop could probably do it much cheaper, after all, it's just a bunch of squares.

Ford's quiet steel is a similar concept, two sheets of steel with an acoustic deadener adhesively bonded in between.

But do whatever you want, nobody really listens around here anyway. I personally wouldn't go and rhino line a bunch of padding, but hey, what the heck do I know?

Cheers,

Kennith