Rotary Coupler Q

[Lutzgaterr]

After I replaced tie rods, my steering wheel was off past 40 or more degrees.
I decided to pull the steering wheel and adjust.
After getting everything back together, the stupid rotary-coupler locking-pin started clicking as I turned the wheel.

I did ?centralize? the coupler before I re-installed the steering wheel, drivers-pegs aligned, but for some reason the coupler?s locking-pin is not getting depressed, so it just clicks away as you turn the wheel.

If I understand the purpose of the locking-pin on the coupler, it is to ensure the coupler does not rotate too far once the steering wheel is removed.

If that is the purpose, then a clicking locking-pin should be no issue, correct?
Thanks in advance.
Bruce

 

[Colorado Scott]

What? Wrong approach. Undo what you did. Adjust your toe via the tie rod and realign your steering wheel by adjusting the drag link (the link from the pitmam arm to the knuckle).

 

[Lutzgaterr]

The Toe, as determined by the track-rod, was not changed. The truck tracks straight. The drag link is what received the new tie-rod ends. After some time to replace these tie-rod ends and get as close to the original drag-link length, that is when I noticed I was off on my measurements, hence steering wheel off-center.
I chose to remove the steering wheel instead of torquing further on the drag link and stressing new tie-rod ends, yea they were tight, even with anti-seize applied before reassembly.
Then I read in RAVE where a steering wheel with more than (I think 15 degrees), should be remedied by removing the steering wheel versus drag-link changes.

You must have thought I did all four tie-rod ends.

If now you still say it's incorrect, please explain why? I am always open to learn something new.

 

[jdcline78]

Bruce The way I have always done it is to losen the 11mm bolts that hold the drag link to the tie rod ends and then use a pipe wrench to spin the drag link untill the wheel is straght squire like to pull his steering linkage and ajust that way that seems to be to much work for me if you need a hand let know I'm only 20 minutes from you

 

[Lutzgaterr]

Thanks Josh, but the reason I choose not to adjust the drag-link is that the stupid Tie-Rod ends are sooo tight that even with heat and two big-ass pipe wrenches, I would end-up nowhere. Believe me, just getting those tie-rod ends into the link was a massive effort, just picture little me hanging on a big-ass pipe-wrench to screw-in the tie-rod ends.
It was crazy-tight.
Something is not right in that picture of course, but it was late Sunday and I was not going to let a little joint defeat me.

Anyways, adjusting the drag-link is a no-go. Next time these tie-rod ends go bye-bye, I will have to upgrade to RT HD-drag link.

So, the rotary coupler release-pin is just clicking away. I don't see any harm, but that is what this thread was all about... :seeya:

 

[RichardS]

I'd say fix the drag link issue... It would be nice to understand what is wrong there before it falls apart and you lose steering

But another idea - pull the steering wheel and see if you can put it back on close to straight. I've only had my Disco wheel off once and cannot remember if it is a keyed shaft or just plain splines. Every other car I've dealt with had plain splines so you could put the wheel on in a number of different orientations. You will probably not be able to get it perfectly straight, you'll just have to take the closest orientation that matches up with the splines.

 

[sven]

Instead of pulling the steering wheel, you can also pull the u-joint shaft off the steering box and readjust the orientation.

 

[RichardS]

Never mind the suggestion I posted above, I read you original post again and now realize you already tried that. I was thinking you were messing with the steering shaft, not the wheel.

 

[Lutzgaterr]

No problemo. I have noticed lots of people who do not read the entire thread before they post a reply. I attribute that to having little time to spend pouring over past posts.
Such is life.

And yes, my 97 has splines and yes, I could not get a precise steering wheel alignment but she is damn close, so it is good enough.

I also considered taking apart the u-joint shaft as an approach but I thought that would require new parts to reassemble, so, steering-wheel approach.

I guess I could address this clicking coupler by removing the steering wheel again and removing the coupler-locating pin or make sure it is depressed permanantley.
I will either get used to the clicking, it will wear-down to a nub and go away or I will go crazy from the noise and address the issue.
Time will tell.