Rotors stuck to hub/flange on '00 DII.

G

Geflackt

Well-known member
Jun 16, 2004
94
0
Eastern PA.
www.ukhistoric.com
Just finished the driver's side pad and rotor replacement on the '00 DII. Now, after removing the screw and caliper bolts on the passenger's side I cannot break the rotor free from the hub. I'll soak around the lug bolts and center area overnight with WD-40 and try again tomorrow. Seems like the rotor might be slightly corroded around the lug nut area.

Does anyone have any other suggestions??

Thanks!
Jason.
 
G

Geflackt

Well-known member
Jun 16, 2004
94
0
Eastern PA.
www.ukhistoric.com
Oh, yeah - I had noticed that rock but didn't have the part number so's I'sa couldn't order one.

Tried the hammer bit from the back with the caliper off. Also tried "light" application of an air hammer. Not wanting to screw up the hub, I figured I'd soak.

The driver's side came off with only a tap - don't know what the deal is with the other side!

Jason.
 
R

Reed

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
148
0
75
Bonny Doon, CA
Another thing you might try is applying copious amounts of heat on the old rotor, while trying to keep the hub relativly cool.

Seriously, if soaking with a good penitrating oil does not help (BTW - WD-40 is not a good penetrating oil. Get something like Gibbs, Kroil, or even Liquid Wrench.) A good application of a welding torch often will help. You shouldn't even have to make the metal glow, just get it hot. Then a good tap or two with a dead-blow, or lead mallet.

Warning - This solution uses a lot of heat, so use adequate protection. If someone gets burned, or you set something on fire your protection was not adequate. :cool:

-Reed
 
U

uberhahn

Active member
Apr 20, 2004
43
0
First, I concur with the WD-40 statement. Use PB Blaster, available at any autoparts store. This stuff is great.

Depending on your rotors, some have two threaded holes on the mounting surface. The purpose of these holes is to drive a bolt through, such that it would force the disk off the hub. Not sure if the stock rotors had these. My aftermarket ones did.

Though you may damage the hub nut area in using a puller, I think it's still a viable option. You don't have to tighten the puller to the point of damage. Tighten it a bit, then use a hammer from the back. Tighten, heat, hammer, PB... until it breaks free.

uberhahn
 
J

JacIntyre

Active member
Apr 20, 2004
40
0
Kano Kroil is good stuff. My bottle is about 12 years old, and I have yet to find a bolt that hasn't come off using it.
 
G

Geflackt

Well-known member
Jun 16, 2004
94
0
Eastern PA.
www.ukhistoric.com
That Kroil is good stuff!! But my bottle just ran out, so I had to use WD-40 for the time being. It doesn't work as well...

BUT - I did manage to get the rotor off. Seems like dirt and corrosion on the lugs held the rotor on. I used some heat and a lot of soaking 'til it came off.

Cleaned up everything before putting the new rotor on and everything works well now!

Really not that bad of a job - it's just that tires, bolts, and parts are much bigger than the little Healeys and Alfas I'm used to!

Jason.
 
L

Leo_Hallak

Active member
Mar 30, 2004
38
0
52
Kansas City, Missouri
Kano

I like pretty much all the Kano products. Kreen the fuel and oil system cleaner is pretty nice too. The new version of Kroil with silicone seems to work better then the old version


leo
 
L

LamaKockLee

Well-known member
May 25, 2004
55
0
I second the puller method. I just pulled the rotors on my 00 d2 to get them machined. Besides the darn screw, it went pretty well. I used a large 2 jaw (3 would be better) puller from harbor freight and slowly turned the screw. Tapped the back side with a wooden block and a hammer. Turned the screw.. repeat. it slowly came off. worked like a charm. By the way, what is the purpose of that frigging screw anyways?
 
Denisk

Denisk

Well-known member
May 24, 2004
160
0
Washington DC
so, when your edoing rotors/pads replacement you go sideways od you go by axle? is there a correct order? is there one? did the brake fuid come out from the tank?
 
95.D1.Rick

95.D1.Rick

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
402
0
Cumberland Co., ME
Just changing pads is pretty straightforward, if you are going to do rotors you will need a hub nut tool. I bought a 2-1/16 (52mm) deep socket to get the hub nut off. You shouldnt have to disconnect the caliper from the brake line, be gentle and just hang it with some twine. If you happen to break the brake line like I did, the replacement brake tubing is available from a dealership for like 12$. And bleeding is no problem, may take a few times to be great. If you do rotors you might as well replace the bearings, they are at NAPA, and cheap. See tech >parts crossreference above .Haynes has a pretty good step-by-step for this job.
 
Denisk

Denisk

Well-known member
May 24, 2004
160
0
Washington DC
please clarify!

sorry i did not specify: i have an '01 DII, with barely 25K on the clock, i can see the pads are wearing thin, but my "stealer" told me recently my rear rotors are getting under specs so he asked if i wanted those to be changed at $650. I said no, but now there is a dilemma: i know i have to change pads either way, but the rotors look fine to me (will remove wheels tomorrow to make sure the backs are fine as well.) I mean there is a little bit of grooving (a little bit), but overall disks look flat and all, the truck is not pulling or pulsating or anything when braked hard or otherwise. SO: DO indeed change rotors even if i cant see anything out of the ordinary? I do intend to do this myself (have to buy the damn jacks) and, when i replace pads, what is the correct order?
Thanks in advance, folks!
 
D

dent

Guest
There's no 'order' to do them. Just make sure that you change both front or both back as a set. Never do just one side.
As for your rotors, when your wheel is off, make sure they're still within spec. There should be a minimum rotor thickness embossed on the rotor towards the centre. If they're still well within spec, and it's groved, get them machined. When checking for thickness and you're not planning on getting the rotor machine. check from different points on the rotor.
sam
 
L

LamaKockLee

Well-known member
May 25, 2004
55
0
Hi,

Like dent above me said, there really is no order. Brake pads come in a per axle package so you usually do fronts or rears. They are not interchangeable. As far as bleeding the brakes, there is an order. I forgot what LandRover recommends, but i think it is different than conventional. However if youre just doing pads at 25k and you do it properly, there is no need to bleed brakes and there should be no fluid dripping or lost anywhere (besides what you take out with the turkey baster. If your going to get the rotors machined by a machine shop (usually advisable as helps 1. helps pads seat. 2. makes it brakes smooooth 3. just good practice) then you are going to have to fight that big friggin screw.

:mad:
 
Denisk

Denisk

Well-known member
May 24, 2004
160
0
Washington DC
thank you guys! your wisdom on this is hard to overestimate! I will keep you all posted. My guess is that stealer probably noticed that rear disks are wearing closer to the specs, so i am just gonna have to see it myself to believe it! i wont be bleeding the brakes, havent noticed any leaks so far in that department:) .... not certain if i can have the rotors machined as i dont have an extra car to bring them out, so will have to make a do without it as long as theire within specs. dreading fighting with the screw already (but i read about all these saoking/heating/hummering/dremel techniques here) so i think i should be all set. as for changing pads in pairs i am all clear on that. please post if you happen to have recommendation for the pads and pads and rotors packages, i am abit in the dark as to the differences between brembo and others stuff. maybe its worth paying extra and going with crossdrilled from the downunder (dba)? still a bit buffled at the idea of having to replace rotors at only 25K! there is always a first i guess! :(
 
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