Ruthlessly judge my parts list!

[ArizonaBasc]

Hello everyone, this is my first post here but I have been lurking for a while now. I just recently bought myself a 2003 Disco 4.6 with 151k miles on it. It was owned by an offroad family but I do not think they paid too much attention to it, and they said that it had been sitting for a while. I got it for far too little money to pass up because this has been my dream car forever!

Now, the part that you all can help with: I have made a spreadsheet with parts that I need to replace in the coming months. I have some disposable income, but not enough for something like an engine replacement if I can avoid it. My goal is to have this car reliable enough to drive from Phoenix, Arizona to Los Angeles in the summer heat. My goal is to make this a daily driver. P.S. the car is completely stock, they just recently replaced the radiator, overflow tank, and battery before I bought it. From the small amount that I have driven it, it runs well and I did not notice the temp gauge move at all over the center. They say it has never overheated.

Attached is my spreadsheet in pdf format, I couldn't do Excel, unfortunately. Let me know what you think! Thank you in advance for the feedback, almost all of these choices have been from reading these forums.

 

[Blue]

Good idea getting the 180 degree OEM thermostat from Britparts.

You said it's not overheating, previous owner said it has never overheated.....why do head gaskets if they are good? I can understand it if you're already "in there" doing the other work....but other than water pump and coolant hoses as preventative maintenance, why do all the rest if it's good now? Plugs and wires is a good idea if they are ancient but again, if it's running fine and ain't broke....

If you're intent on bullet-proofing the cooling system, check out the aluminum parts from CARRS4X4:

Land Rover Discovery II 99-04 coolant hose 4-way aluminum tube by CARRS4X4

Replacement part for LAND ROVER Discovery 2 from 1999 to 2004. Replace the plastic tube in the thermostat to water pump and cooling hose pipe assembly PCH000080. 5052 Aluminum dull finish

carrs4x4.com

Land Rover Discovery II 99-04 coolant hose Aluminum T w/stainless steel bleeder screw

Replacement for Discovery Series II from 1999 to 2004 V8 4.0L, 4.6L and EU3 TDi (item #18 only) BLEEDER T with SCREW : 5052 Aluminum dull finish with bonded seal dowty washer and stainless steel bleeder SCREW. HARDWARE: 3 x OEM style spring constant tension clamps for Bleeder T FREE Standard...

carrs4x4.com

I can't find their aluminum expansion tank....maybe discontinued? I think Allisport makes one. I'd plan on ditching the crappy plastic expansion tank at some point.

I'm assuming you have an old OEM non-greasable front shaft, which you should replace. The rotoflex rear couplers just about last forever, even if they look chewed up. I always kept a spare in the truck just in case.

Sounds like your power steering box or pump is leaking, which is par for the course.

The other "fun stuff" is all up to you! Lots of info on the lift spring & shock packages available now. I'm an old OME suspension guy but other kits are available now with good track records.

 

[Tugela]

Pay no attention to the dash temp readout. It is a three-state gauge:

1. Your engine is cold
2. Your engine is fine
3. Your engine is fucked

If you want to know the real time engine coolant temps, buy a Bluetooth OBD-2 reader, pair to to the Torque app on your phone, and you can see exactly at what temperature your engine is operating at any given instant.

You're going to need this tool for a myriad other reasons as well, so might as well add it to your list.

 

[ArizonaBasc]

Thanks Blue for those aluminum parts, I will probably go for those as well as the hose kit. As for doing the head gaskets, I figured they will go sometime in the near future with the number of miles on the engine, and after this summer I won't have time to do a full tear down until winter (university.) Do you think it could do more harm than good trying to replace them with quality parts? I do not think I am a slouch of a mechanic, if I did it slowly I could do it right.

Tugela-do you think that I need anything more than the Ultragauge? I am familiar with those but I am open to other options.

 

[Blue]

This is what I used to monitor my engine temps, along with the OBDFusion iphone app:

OBDCheck VP01 – Veepeak

Head gaskets certainly can't hurt but if they're not leaking now, I'd save the time & money. But being proactive isn't a bad idea either.

 

[Tugela]

Tugela-do you think that I need anything more than the Ultragauge? I am familiar with those but I am open to other options.

If you already have a tool that performs this function then spend your money on other parts. UltraGauge will do most of what you want. If you didn't already have something like this, I recommend the Bluetooth/phone option since it's wireless, inexpensive, and has a user-friendly, customizable interface. Sounds like you have this need covered.

 

[mearstrae]

Folks also look for better thermostat set-ups, take a look at a 2002-08 Jaguar Type 'S' 3L V-6 all aluminum housing. Also, an all welded aluminum radiator (without the crappy plastic side tanks). Be sure to have your heads checked for warpage, etc. while you have them off. Check for the digital temp gauge that an Australian company makes (I forget which), it has a temp alarm that you can set, then anyone driving will get the danger message. [i wish I'd had one when my wife cooked her Rangie on a trip...]

 

[donniefitz2]

I think your list looks pretty good. I would put an Ultragauge at the top, especially if you're here in the AZ desert. Make sure to use the gray, soft-spring thermostat. I thought all the talk about thermostats was snake oil (it's a switch basically). Nope, it matters a lot and can lower your temps significantly.

With that many miles, I'd be checking wheel bearings, changing t-case and diff oil, tranny fluid and power steering fluid. It's all pretty easy to do.

Do head gaskets if you need them, but I wouldn't do them preventatively.

Not sure where in AZ you are, but I just went through all of this recently and I'd be happy to help you out.

 

[ArizonaBasc]

I think your list looks pretty good. I would put an Ultragauge at the top, especially if you're here in the AZ desert. Make sure to use the gray, soft-spring thermostat. I thought all the talk about thermostats was snake oil (it's a switch basically). Nope, it matters a lot and can lower your temps significantly.

With that many miles, I'd be checking wheel bearings, changing t-case and diff oil, tranny fluid and power steering fluid. It's all pretty easy to do.

Do head gaskets if you need them, but I wouldn't do them preventatively.

Not sure where in AZ you are, but I just went through all of this recently and I'd be happy to help you out.

Awesome thank you, I will definitely be changing all those fluids, I should put those on the list. Do you have a preference for brand of thermostat? Also, how has your experience been with a Discovery in Arizona summer heat? Is it even possible to have it as a daily driver in the summertime?

 

[donniefitz2]

Yes, the brand matters. I tried a Stant 180 thermostat and it was okay. The gray LR one lowered my temps by about 10 degrees. I'm 90% sure this is the thermostat you want, but I'd call and ask if it's the soft-spring just to be safe: https://lucky8llc.com/collections/discovery-ii-thermostat/products/genuine-low-temp-thermostat

I drove my Disco most of last summer (from July on 115 degrees mostly). My temps with the Stand 180 stat were like 205-207 idling. It went as high as 215 once. Cruising down the highway, I'd see 208-210ish. After the gray thermostat, I idle at 194-197. Cruising at about 188-190. With the AC on it goes a few degrees higher, but mostly high 190's low 200's. You can definitely drive one during summer with a properly working cooling system.

 

[4Runner]

Can’t seem to get your list to open. So I am sorry if it’s on the list already. I would change the fuel pump if it’s an original. I wouldn’t change the head gaskets till you start having related problems. Check your serpentine belt for cracking. Doublecheck the throttle body heater for leaks. What do you guys think about checking the crank sensor wiring to be proactive on that vintage? Maybe check your steering box play. Good luck with it.

 

[Howski]

I’d pick up a spare window regulator or two. Not critical but a pain in the ass when the plastic roller breaks. You can replace with a steel washer which typically holds up better

 

[ArizonaBasc]

I did see some fuel that was dripping from around the top of the tank so that may be the fuel pump. I was going to get a new serpentine belt because it whines like crazy but did not know if I had ACE, I have heard a lot about it. How do I tell if I have it?

I will pick up some window regulators for sure, the back ones are already being funky.

Thank you again for the warm welcome to the forums everyone!

 

[donniefitz2]

You'll know if you have ACE because you'll have 2 caps where the power steering reservoir is.

 

[Swedjen2]

If possible, take your Disco over to Falconworks down in Tuscon. Have them go thru it and give you a list of what they think it needs.
Sniff around their website. they are big on preventive maintainance, esp. the ABS module to prevent the 3 Amigo issue.
At a minimum, I would get the ABS module rebuild kit. It's an item that is not on a maintainance schedule, but should be. Every 60K.
The main issue with the 2003 is you can't lock the center diff. I think you have to swap it out. I'd get a used 2004 or one from Ashcroft in the U.K.

Get the tranny fluid changed ASAP, unless you know the service history. Most PO's paid little attention to scheduled maintainance - only when the temp gauge hit max, or it wouldn't shift into D.
In fact - change ALL the fluids ASAP....that includes brake fluid. I'll bet your brake fluid is as black as the ace of spades.

Don't get the Uro hoses, I've seen bad reports.
Consider a Great Basin or Tom Wood's front drive shaft. I think Lucky8 sells Tom Woods..
Standard LR paper filter - K & N's are a waste.
15/40 oil - Dino or synth
Use the LR oil filters as they are engineered to match the flow and pressure of the LR engine.-JMO- Wix in a pinch.
Cat sensors are a fairly common issue - so budget for those - Prefer NGK's maybe Denso's - not Bosch. There are 4.

I'd get an analog temp and oil pressure gauge and a 2 pod mounting bracket.

Victor Reinz gaskets
Timing Chain? You sure?
Oil Pump? - see what your pressure is first. s/b mid 40s freeway and 20 idling engine hot.
Airtex water pumps only - the more expensive one. Don't get suckered with cheap PRC junk.

Terra Firma is mid-level quality.
OME springs or RTE if you can get them. Put a 1/2 or 1" spacer up front to level out the D2. They all look like a 60's Big Daddy Don Garlits funny car from the factory. The spacer levels it out. You will not be sorry.
Lot of people here like Fox if your going to use it in the dirt. Bilsteen or OME for mostly street.
Then there is Koni.
Good meats will cost around $200 ea. Don't complain - that's half the cost of steak, if meat weighed as much as a tire.
The subject of shocks and tires are the War and Peace of the 4WD world....it never ends, if you can even get to the end.
You get what you pay for. Avoid the PRC junk. You are doing yourself and the rest of the world a favor. Half their crap doesn't fit half the time and only lasts half as long.
Clean the condensor radiator that's in front of the coolant radiator. It's plugged with dirt and the dried husks of airborn creatures over the last 18 years.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot - double your budget and double your time line.
And budget for adult beverages. So that's 3X your orginal budget.

 

[Knightspirit]

Pay no attention to the dash temp readout. It is a three-state gauge:

1. Your engine is cold
2. Your engine is fine
3. Your engine is fucked

If you want to know the real time engine coolant temps, buy a Bluetooth OBD-2 reader, pair to to the Torque app on your phone, and you can see exactly at what temperature your engine is operating at any given instant.

You're going to need this tool for a myriad other reasons as well, so might as well add it to your list.

Yes - what he said

 

[Knightspirit]

If possible, take your Disco over to Falconworks down in Tuscon. Have them go thru it and give you a list of what they think it needs.
Sniff around their website. they are big on preventive maintainance, esp. the ABS module to prevent the 3 Amigo issue.
At a minimum, I would get the ABS module rebuild kit. It's an item that is not on a maintainance schedule, but should be. Every 60K.
The main issue with the 2003 is you can't lock the center diff. I think you have to swap it out. I'd get a used 2004 or one from Ashcroft in the U.K.

Get the tranny fluid changed ASAP, unless you know the service history. Most PO's paid little attention to scheduled maintainance - only when the temp gauge hit max, or it wouldn't shift into D.
In fact - change ALL the fluids ASAP....that includes brake fluid. I'll bet your brake fluid is as black as the ace of spades.

Don't get the Uro hoses, I've seen bad reports.
Consider a Great Basin or Tom Wood's front drive shaft. I think Lucky8 sells Tom Woods..
Standard LR paper filter - K & N's are a waste.
15/40 oil - Dino or synth
Use the LR oil filters as they are engineered to match the flow and pressure of the LR engine.-JMO- Wix in a pinch.
Cat sensors are a fairly common issue - so budget for those - Prefer NGK's maybe Denso's - not Bosch. There are 4.

I'd get an analog temp and oil pressure gauge and a 2 pod mounting bracket.

Victor Reinz gaskets
Timing Chain? You sure?
Oil Pump? - see what your pressure is first. s/b mid 40s freeway and 20 idling engine hot.
Airtex water pumps only - the more expensive one. Don't get suckered with cheap PRC junk.

Terra Firma is mid-level quality.
OME springs or RTE if you can get them. Put a 1/2 or 1" spacer up front to level out the D2. They all look like a 60's Big Daddy Don Garlits funny car from the factory. The spacer levels it out. You will not be sorry.
Lot of people here like Fox if your going to use it in the dirt. Bilsteen or OME for mostly street.
Then there is Koni.
Good meats will cost around $200 ea. Don't complain - that's half the cost of steak, if meat weighed as much as a tire.
The subject of shocks and tires are the War and Peace of the 4WD world....it never ends, if you can even get to the end.
You get what you pay for. Avoid the PRC junk. You are doing yourself and the rest of the world a favor. Half their crap doesn't fit half the time and only lasts half as long.
Clean the condensor radiator that's in front of the coolant radiator. It's plugged with dirt and the dried husks of airborn creatures over the last 18 years.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot - double your budget and double your time line.
And budget for adult beverages. So that's 3X your orginal budget.









View attachment 60772

For what it's worth - I bought the 2" inch Terrafirma lift with the Sport shocks and extended brake line kit - and I am pleased with the ride and performance - especially considering the price.

 

[bri]

Good idea getting the 180 degree OEM thermostat from Britparts.

You said it's not overheating, previous owner said it has never overheated.....why do head gaskets if they are good? I can understand it if you're already "in there" doing the other work....but other than water pump and coolant hoses as preventative maintenance, why do all the rest if it's good now? Plugs and wires is a good idea if they are ancient but again, if it's running fine and ain't broke....

If you're intent on bullet-proofing the cooling system, check out the aluminum parts from CARRS4X4:

Land Rover Discovery II 99-04 coolant hose 4-way aluminum tube by CARRS4X4

Replacement part for LAND ROVER Discovery 2 from 1999 to 2004. Replace the plastic tube in the thermostat to water pump and cooling hose pipe assembly PCH000080. 5052 Aluminum dull finish

carrs4x4.com

Land Rover Discovery II 99-04 coolant hose Aluminum T w/stainless steel bleeder screw

Replacement for Discovery Series II from 1999 to 2004 V8 4.0L, 4.6L and EU3 TDi (item #18 only) BLEEDER T with SCREW : 5052 Aluminum dull finish with bonded seal dowty washer and stainless steel bleeder SCREW. HARDWARE: 3 x OEM style spring constant tension clamps for Bleeder T FREE Standard...

carrs4x4.com

I can't find their aluminum expansion tank....maybe discontinued? I think Allisport makes one. I'd plan on ditching the crappy plastic expansion tank at some point.

I'm assuming you have an old OEM non-greasable front shaft, which you should replace. The rotoflex rear couplers just about last forever, even if they look chewed up. I always kept a spare in the truck just in case.

Sounds like your power steering box or pump is leaking, which is par for the course.

The other "fun stuff" is all up to you! Lots of info on the lift spring & shock packages available now. I'm an old OME suspension guy but other kits are available now with good track records.

LMAO. I twisted rotoflex to the point where the bolts overlapped. Always figured it out before ultimate failure, carried a spare. Never had them last more than a few months once I went to 3" lift and 235/85. It would be one of the first things I address with any lift or wheeling on anything moderate to difficult.

I cant handle lists. I just keep the vehicle running and do what ever seems to be the most fun at the time and necessary for my travels.

 

[Blue]

On my D1 the heavy duty OME lift started eating rotos immediately. Lots of vibrations. Had to switch to a UJ rear shaft (that I bought from Peter Matusov about 20 years ago). On my D2 the lift chewed up the rotos but the truck didn’t care.