Series IIa brake woes
- Thread starter AU_88
- Start date
It could be the old brake hoses or hose expanding when you use the barkes. use 3 fuel line clamp tool, or vise grips just becareful not to damage. and clamp off the two front rubber hose lines and the one rubber rear hose line. then press your brake pedal. It should be rock hard. then go ahead and release one of your front ones, push the pedal. hard or soft? if hard release your second clamp, and reapeat with the 3rd one. if soft then that is your brake line that is bad. Also adjust your brake shoes to just rubbing the brake drum and do complete brake bleed making sure to get as much air out as possible.
I would like to say its a cheap fix, but my brake pedal did the same thing, and it took....
-new master cylinder
-new brake booster
-new drums
-new pads
-new wheel cylinders
-new brake lines
-new springs
But thats just mine! you could be lucky and just have one of those problems!
-new master cylinder
-new brake booster
-new drums
-new pads
-new wheel cylinders
-new brake lines
-new springs
But thats just mine! you could be lucky and just have one of those problems!
How old is the mastercylinder? very possible it blew a seal inside it. Happened to me, had to double pump to stop.
also as noted it could be one of the cylinders at the wheel.
At least you didnt wreck when you found out about it.....
also as noted it could be one of the cylinders at the wheel.
At least you didnt wreck when you found out about it.....
Well I went through and tried to bleed the brakes, some fluid came out but not much, sometimes none. I think I am going to start with a new master cylinder and slowly replace all the components. Hopefully the master will get it stopping, and then I will move to the hoses, springs, etc. It sucks because I really want to drive the truck.
www.roversdownsouth.com tell crazy george you are friends with that rover owner that goes to the seminary down the street.
If no fld returned when you bleed them, your not building any pressure in the system, most likely do to a master brake issue, Don't rebuild buy a new one.
Bleeding can be a problem, start with the farthest cylinder from the master and work towards the closest one.
Bench bleed the master before you mount.
You'll probably end up buying new wheel cylinders as well , most likely the bleed nipples will be corroded, be careful not to twist off, sometimes you cant loosen them and end up twisting them off.
www.singingcamel.com
Bleeding can be a problem, start with the farthest cylinder from the master and work towards the closest one.
Bench bleed the master before you mount.
You'll probably end up buying new wheel cylinders as well , most likely the bleed nipples will be corroded, be careful not to twist off, sometimes you cant loosen them and end up twisting them off.
www.singingcamel.com
IIa, eh? CB or CV master cylinder? If it's the CB unit, the one with the big nut on the barrel, it's notorious for retaining air in the master. Because of the angle of the unit, it either has to be bench-bled prior to installation, or you have to jack the front end high enough so the air can be pumped out...which is why Rover went with the CV master.
If you use the vice-grip trick to clamp off the hoses, slip a short length of 3/8" steel iron pipe over the jaws. This will make a dandy, non-damaging clamp.
Cheers
If you use the vice-grip trick to clamp off the hoses, slip a short length of 3/8" steel iron pipe over the jaws. This will make a dandy, non-damaging clamp.
Cheers
I find the best way to bleed is to let gravity do it's thing. open a bleeder, and go do something else. check every few minutes to make sure the master does not run out of fluid. I have never had luck bleeding the series with the pumping pedal method. when the fluid comes through without any bubbles, close it up and go the next one.
Robert Alley said:
When you tear the old MC apart, look at the cylinder bore itsself, if its scored to shit dont even worry about it unless you just want the experience.
msggunny said:
well the bore was fine, but the screw that adjust for the brake pedal sheared and so I ordered a new MC, new wheel cylinders, a few pipes etc. Im just waiting for them to come in. I can't wait to start driving the truck. Hopefully it will be ready for SAE...
Fill the master cylinder with fld, clamp the flex hose going to the rear cylinders above the axle on the passenger side and see if you get pressure, this will eliminate the rear cylinders. If you get a hard pedal you have alot of air in the system. You can also clamp the flex hoses to each front cylinder and force the fld to the rear.check for leaks on each wheel cylinder.
Well most of the hoses are new so there is definitely air in the system, but when I push the pedal in with the new master cylinder nothing happens. I rented a bleed kit from advance for the day so once I get off work I will give that a try. You can literally pump the pedal and watch the reservoir and see no change. This is a CB cylinder BTW. Im guessing there is air in the MC, but shouldn't something happen?
Sounds like a issue with the Master cylinder.. Disconnect the lines to the cylinders and bleed it . then try to rebleed the wheel cylinders.
You can crack the left rear cylinder and gravity bleed but you will need to bleed the system again but at least there will be less air.
You can crack the left rear cylinder and gravity bleed but you will need to bleed the system again but at least there will be less air.