Series IIa brake woes
- Thread starter AU_88
- Start date
Robert Alley said:
Is it still positive earth with the generator or was it switched over to negative earth with an alternator?
I cant remember if the lights are fused with the coil/ignition as well. Not really sure, get a multi meeter.
Lucas loves you....
I know we have transitioned to electrical in this post, but I have to say the best tool I have ever purchased for my Series II is the Motive power bleeder. You can get a firm consistent pedal in minutes, even if you start with a dry system. The power bleeder pushes the fluid through everything. All you have to do is put fluid in the bleeder and pump it up and then just go and open bleeders. It works on clutches too. It's honestly the best $60 I have spent in a long time. I got mine from British Pacific, but they are available all over the place. I think it's an invaluable tool for a Series owner.
Robert Alley said:
The compression barrel MC can be a pain, 'cause there are only two ways to get the air out of the big end....and that's why they were done away with. One way is to jack the front end 4' into the air so the port from the cylinder is the highest point. The other is to bench bleed first. Clamp the cylinder/pedal assembly in a vice with the port from the cylinder the highest point as above. Work the pedal until no bubbles come out. Right messy, unless you rig up a temporary brake line to a can. Once the bubbles are gone (on the down stroke) insert a plug in the port and fit the pedal assembly. Then proceed to bleed the wheel cylinders.
Cheers
The power bleeder eliminates the whole issue. If forces the fluid into the MC and works like a champ. I promise I don't work for Motive, I just really like their product. If one was inclined I suspect the bleeder could be made from an inexpensive garden sprayer, but it's much more convenient to just buy the complete item. My MC is the CB style and the power bleeder makes bleeding the brakes a cinch. I can start with a completely dry system and have a firm pedal in less than 15 minutes. I can't say enough good things about the power bleeder. I have bench bled, pump bled, vacuum bled, and nothing works as well as the power bleeder!
jeepfiend said:
Yup...exactly what I did.... Whole thing cost me the grand sum of $1.98, and that was for a brass hose barb. Used the old cap off a defunct, Series III dual master brake reservoir, and a quart-sized sprayer with a broken tip. The plastic cap fits the III's clutch master, as well as the "soup can" reservoir on earlier, Series II and IIa's and even the clutch and brake reservoirs on the Disco. How's that for multi-tasking?...though when it used on the soup can reservoir, it need two gaskets.
Still though, I don't see how to get the air out of the big end of the CB unit without elevating the thing....
Cheers
No matter what I did, my brakes always took two pumps... I had bench bled the master, but apparently not very well. I pumped and vacuumed almost a full quart through the system and still had two pump brakes, even when I could get nothing but fluid with conventional bleeding. The only place it could have been was the MC. When I bled with the power bleeder I went from unpredictable mushy two pumpers to a firm pedal almost at the top of the pedal travel. I pushed out a big pocket of air and the only place I can figure it came from was the master... At any rate, it was a good purchase. Great job on building your own! I love that kind of thing! There's nothing better than homemade tools