Series IIa questions

KMadigan

Active member
Feb 28, 2006
36
0
New Hampshire
I am going to look at a 63 Series II this week with hopes of purchasing it. I have had a RR Classic and currently have an 03 D2, but this is my first time with a Series Rover.

In the description it says "re-chromed swivel ball set with bushings and leather gators". What does the "leather gators" mean?

My other question is in regards to driving it. As I have never drove one can someone please explain how the use the overdrive in relation to test driving it, as well as the high and low 4 wheel drive.

I am a rookie to the serives vehicles and want to get my feet wet. Thanks in advance for you help.
 

Leslie

Well-known member
Apr 28, 2004
3,473
0
52
Kingsport TN
There are optional leather gaitors (leather boots or sleeves) that protect the swivel balls of the steering on the front axles.

The transmission should be a standard 4-speed (assuming stock). There are two levers (the yellow and red knobs) that control the four-wheel drive and the low-range. The overdrive will be controlled by an additional lever. (Is it a Fairey, or a Roverdrive? Or a Toro?) Regardless of which type it is, it basically has two positions, engaged and not-engaged. Out, it is just acting normally; then when engaged, it lowers the RPM. If you're in fourth, it's just like going to fifth. Or, if you're in third, it'd be like going to 3-1/2, not quite all the way to fourth.

Aside from the usual mechanical issues, (running, brakes, etc.), look for rust. Take a hammer and whack on the chassis... make sure the outriggers, the frame horns, the rear crossmember, the main rails, make sure they're all sound. Check the bulkhead thoroughly, the footwells, the lower door hinge mounting point, the upper hinge too, around the dash vents.

Good luck....

-L
 

lcater

Well-known member
Mar 6, 2006
293
0
Canada
Leslie said:
Take a hammer and whack on the chassis...
-L
...in many places! The chassis usually rots top down so the bottom could be solid still, but still crap. If you find or create any holes the soze of your fist, then walk away unless you are either really handy at welding, or are buying it cheap for a frame up.

On the test drive, since your past experience has been with coil spring rovers and power steering, this is like nothing compared to that. The good news! There is no check/service engine light. The vehicle should start fairly easy if well maintained. There may be some smoke at first but once up to temperature the tailpipe should be clear. Driving it, you will find
- it will be bumpy, especially if there is nothing else in the vehicle to weigh it down
- the steering should be tight while moving with not too much play in the wheel. It will be tough to turn tight corners at low speeds.
- 1st gear should run out fairly quick and necessitating shifting into second.
- make sure you try to downshift from 3rd into 2nd at about 20mph and see if 1) she'll go into 2nd and 2) she stays in second and doesn't pop out. If she pops out, it could be a simple fix as a detent spring, or something more major
- don't even try to downshift into 1st.

AND - there are no syncrmesh in 3rd and 4th so you need to learn the fine art of the double clutch. Good luck with that!:eek:

Perhaps someone else on the board can offer their experience on that as I have an SIII.

Hope it works out, once you learn to accept their quirks, they are a fun vehicle to drive. You actually need to drive them.
 

meatblanket

Member
Oct 25, 2004
7
0
Actually it's 1st and 2nd that are non-synchronized in the IIa. Therefore, one must double clutch when going from 1st to 2nd, and when downshifting into 2nd (or 1st, but be careful with that until you've mastered the art of matching engine speed with your shifting).

Shifting into 3rd and 4th, and between the two, is just like any passenger car.

Once you have this down, you'll find that it is easy and satisfying to do.