Spark Plug???
- Thread starter Scott
- Start date
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Disco Mike
Guest
Scott,
If you are running good aftermarket plug wires instead of the factory wires you can up grade to the Bosh Platium Plus 4's and get alot more low end power. The reason is, factory plug wires only handle around 37,000 volts new and they have a high resistance to them so you don't get a strong spark. With a wire like Magnecor 8mm wires they can handle 55,000 volts and their resistance is very low allowing a much stronger spark and the Bosh plugs can really deliver that spark.
For what it is worth,
Mike J.
If you are running good aftermarket plug wires instead of the factory wires you can up grade to the Bosh Platium Plus 4's and get alot more low end power. The reason is, factory plug wires only handle around 37,000 volts new and they have a high resistance to them so you don't get a strong spark. With a wire like Magnecor 8mm wires they can handle 55,000 volts and their resistance is very low allowing a much stronger spark and the Bosh plugs can really deliver that spark.
For what it is worth,
Mike J.
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Peter-man99
Guest
for a true platinum plug its going to cost $15 - $20 per. Bosch claims to have platinum plugs and they are more expensive but not near what a true "platinum" plug would cost. I went with the NGK by recomendation from Bob at "The sports car shop". That's a plug for Bob and Brenda because they are very trustworthy and really know their stuff.
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Disco Mike
Guest
Peter,
Bosh Platium Plus 4's can be bought for under $6.00 a piece, which is not too pricey.
Melissa,
Don't believe what every cute boy says, he probably doesn't even have that lawn mower he was talking to you about.
Mike J.
Bosh Platium Plus 4's can be bought for under $6.00 a piece, which is not too pricey.
Melissa,
Don't believe what every cute boy says, he probably doesn't even have that lawn mower he was talking to you about.
Mike J.
the problem is not so much a matter of voltage but fouling.
the ole buick 215 aint the cleanest burning of motors and the champions are by far the most tolerant of oil.
i've got magnecor wires and i stick with champions.
do a search.
years worth of info on this topic.
the ole buick 215 aint the cleanest burning of motors and the champions are by far the most tolerant of oil.
i've got magnecor wires and i stick with champions.
do a search.
years worth of info on this topic.
P
Peter-man99
Guest
Disco Mike said:
I actually had the platinum 4s in the truck before changing to the NGks. There was no significant difference (perhaps due to the wires and not related to the plug whatsoever). I was going to just put new 4s back in but after reading about other's suggestions and experience with the 4s I decided not to. The mechanic I spoke to has been working on Land Rover's for over 20 years here in town and in addition to knowing his stuff he is really helpful to DIYers like me. If 20 years of experience on Land Rovers and other british cars says that a the platinum 4s aren't worth the extra coin its good enough for me.
Mike you may have experience with the bosch's that have made you a lifetime customer, to that I say, great! And I mean that. I was just passing on the information (and source) that I was given.
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Sergei
Guest
Well.. Per Melissa's request.. 
If you got 7mm wires - go with weird geometry plugs. You need all the help you can get with weak rover ignition and thin wire you can get. 4+ Bosch (unless you havent cleaned engine for a while) will do nicely, 2", Splitfire, V-groove - whatever..
If you got 8mm wire you can stick with weird geometry ones or you can (if you feel good about your coil or coilpack) go with standard geometry and set gap to mid-range or higher end of range that specified for your truck.
If you got 8.5 or thicker wires with good low resistance (lets not go into dispute of magnecors premium quality here. They are actually lower resistance wires , comparable to Accel), and/or complimented by better ignition solution - you definetly want to go with standard geometry, gapped to upper possible range or (Jacobs suggests it, others leaving it up to you) about 0.1mm more.
Reason to do it is that bigger arc (larger gap) and longer spark (aftermarket ignition, mostly CD) making your fuel work more efficiently.
Dont try to play game of increasing gaps over higher level on standard wires and ignition, as you will then get things screwed up (misfiring & etc).
Other than that - biggest concern with those walmart brands is to get sparkplugs that got similar resistance across the set. I seen few studies by folkz with lots of time - and Bosch actually solid one on having them all similar. NGK was slightly below. Cant remember about rest.
That said - people should run whatever they like Its not the most expensive part and you can always experiment with things.
(But dude at counter beating up Bosch stuff was pretty damn wrong).
If you got 7mm wires - go with weird geometry plugs. You need all the help you can get with weak rover ignition and thin wire you can get. 4+ Bosch (unless you havent cleaned engine for a while) will do nicely, 2", Splitfire, V-groove - whatever..
If you got 8mm wire you can stick with weird geometry ones or you can (if you feel good about your coil or coilpack) go with standard geometry and set gap to mid-range or higher end of range that specified for your truck.
If you got 8.5 or thicker wires with good low resistance (lets not go into dispute of magnecors premium quality here. They are actually lower resistance wires , comparable to Accel), and/or complimented by better ignition solution - you definetly want to go with standard geometry, gapped to upper possible range or (Jacobs suggests it, others leaving it up to you) about 0.1mm more.
Reason to do it is that bigger arc (larger gap) and longer spark (aftermarket ignition, mostly CD) making your fuel work more efficiently.
Dont try to play game of increasing gaps over higher level on standard wires and ignition, as you will then get things screwed up (misfiring & etc).
Other than that - biggest concern with those walmart brands is to get sparkplugs that got similar resistance across the set. I seen few studies by folkz with lots of time - and Bosch actually solid one on having them all similar. NGK was slightly below. Cant remember about rest.
That said - people should run whatever they like
Its not the most expensive part and you can always experiment with things. (But dude at counter beating up Bosch stuff was pretty damn wrong).
S
Sergei
Guest
Weird geometry - plugs that are not traditional ones. Ones with lower contacts with funky grooves and things (Accel V-groove is good example), multiple upper contacts (Bosch 2+ or 4+ models), upper contacts with funky shaped heads (Splitfire is example of those).
Major difference is that once with multiple constacts arent adjustable. Others may be adjustable - so some gap game may be played.
Idea behind multiple contacts to provie multiple paths one of which may be always found easier. Eventually this approach sucks, b/c it gives you shortest possible arc. However this plug will misfire much less. But if it will get fouled (and they are getting fouled very easy) - you toast.
Idea behind different shapes of contacts (both upper and lower) is that they will help you build weird shape arc that willb e wider and thus burn fuel nicer. They are basically playing on fact that average american folk skept all those physics lessons in school and cant remember how discharge works and what it looks like In reality they are working pretty much same as those multiple contacts ones.
Major difference is that once with multiple constacts arent adjustable. Others may be adjustable - so some gap game may be played.
Idea behind multiple contacts to provie multiple paths one of which may be always found easier. Eventually this approach sucks, b/c it gives you shortest possible arc. However this plug will misfire much less. But if it will get fouled (and they are getting fouled very easy) - you toast.
Idea behind different shapes of contacts (both upper and lower) is that they will help you build weird shape arc that willb e wider and thus burn fuel nicer. They are basically playing on fact that average american folk skept all those physics lessons in school and cant remember how discharge works and what it looks like
In reality they are working pretty much same as those multiple contacts ones.
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Ahhh, thank you for the enlightenment. FWIW I use the Magnacor 8mms with Champion RN12YC (I think that's correct) plugs. Runs great until I blow a head gasket, suck oil into two of the cylinders (#6 & which ever is in front of #6), gum up the plugs and valves and therefore will soon (hopefully Tuesday) be a proud owner of a new valve job!! Whoo hoo!
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Sergei
Guest
spending more then a buck on a spark plug for a rover is a waste of $and anybody that says a spark plug will get them more power is on qualudes.
buy the cheapies and change them much more often to maintain a clean burning combustion mixture.
MM
This subject comes up over and over.
Here's my 2 cents-
Buy a quality inexpensive plug and change often. I use Bosch copper cores or, if unavailable, NGK's and change probably every 10k at a little more than $1 a plug. I also now use Magnecor 8mm wires (after my MSD's fell apart on the trail and I had to borrow a lead from another driver to get home without ruining one cat). I believe Musky likes the Autolites-good plug and price can't be beat.
The Bosch Plats and +2 and +4 are fine but not worth the extra $ in my opinion as I don't believe in long term changes.
I don't like the Champions for the very "anti-fouling" technology they espouse. Years ago (70's) I used to go to the time and trouble of indexing plugs and clean and re-file and re-gap my plugs. I often found the center electrode on the Champions to frequently become loose and would slide up and down. This is due to their design which has an internal gap which forces a capacitive discharge "jump" and prevents fouling. Many 2-stroke plugs feature this design as well. I don't believe the Champion Truck Plugs have this feature thought-not sure.
Here's my 2 cents-
Buy a quality inexpensive plug and change often. I use Bosch copper cores or, if unavailable, NGK's and change probably every 10k at a little more than $1 a plug. I also now use Magnecor 8mm wires (after my MSD's fell apart on the trail and I had to borrow a lead from another driver to get home without ruining one cat). I believe Musky likes the Autolites-good plug and price can't be beat.
The Bosch Plats and +2 and +4 are fine but not worth the extra $ in my opinion as I don't believe in long term changes.
I don't like the Champions for the very "anti-fouling" technology they espouse. Years ago (70's) I used to go to the time and trouble of indexing plugs and clean and re-file and re-gap my plugs. I often found the center electrode on the Champions to frequently become loose and would slide up and down. This is due to their design which has an internal gap which forces a capacitive discharge "jump" and prevents fouling. Many 2-stroke plugs feature this design as well. I don't believe the Champion Truck Plugs have this feature thought-not sure.
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Greg ~ Took your advice changed them today with the cheapos. Cheapest part yet. Under $12 in total. After a 200 mile drive I noticed the shivers have somewhat gone away. The rover used to like "shake" at idle or more or less shiver like it was cold, this has ceased for now @ least. Thanks again guys!
Thanks again guys!
K
Kyle
Guest
Champion really is a shit plug and they will foul quiclker then most. Where did that stuff about them being more tollerant come from ? I put in a good set of autolites and just never change