Spring and Shock Question.

P

Punchy325

Guest
I plan to buy OME HD springs for the rear and move the old rear springs to the front. Can I do this using stock shocks without any troubles? What tire size could I then fit without any trimming? Thanks in advance.
 
G

gadams

Guest
Welcome to Discoweb :)

The pissy answer to your question is that this site has a great search function and that is the best way to answer your question.

OTOH, we at least need to know what you are driving. Disco 2's will take 265/75r16 as a tight fit without any lift and maybe some rubbing at full turn. Furthermore, the tech section has an article at the bottom of the list about tires and what fits what. Lastly, why only the rear end and how HD do you want? I expect that adding rear springs only will probably leave you disappointed. Your truck will likely have a more nose-down attitude and the rear-end will probably feel harsh because ybour springs will be unbalanced, IMO.
 
R

Ron

Well-known member
Jun 15, 2004
1,820
0
Main Line
If it is a DI then yes. As far as NO trimming then stock. 235 85 R16 will fit with minor trimming.
 
B

bri

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
6,184
155
US
Ron said:
If it is a DI then yes. As far as NO trimming then stock. 235 85 R16 will fit with minor trimming.
Click to expand...

If you consider front AND rear of the rear wheel well, minor I agree.
 
B

bri

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
6,184
155
US
You just haven't articulated enough then or your setup somehow prevented it.

It could depend on the minimum length of the shock and your shock mounts as well. For example a fairly short shock and the stock mounts would give a lot of up travel and have more of a chance to stuff into the front of the rear wheel well and door. With OME N44 and stock rover upper shock mounts my tire would stuff into the door. Mine chewed the tires apart on the outside edge in no time.

If you never get into a situation where the rear articulates a bunch, you will never notice, but as soon as you do you will eat the edges of the tires and bend the inside portion of the wheel well.

Rovertym makes the a arm extension to help with this problem.

Brian
 
R

Ron

Well-known member
Jun 15, 2004
1,820
0
Main Line
Bri,
do you have aftermarket trailing arms or have you bent them?

Both have been fully articulated and niether hit the front of the rear wheel well.

fwiw
 
C

cmondieyoung

Guest
Just to add..

I fitted 245/75R16s with minor trimming to rear fender (use a sawzall, even with no experience it's a cinch. just make sure your gas tank isn't leakin.. it can throw sparks. I actually cut a lot more than I intended, because it was a hell of a time :D )

You'll gain a good .5-1.00" ground clearance to boot, depending on which tire you decide on.
 
P

Punchy325

Guest
I have a '96 SE7 D1. I had read about people performing the "cheap b*st*rd" lift by buying new rear springs and moving the stock rear springs to the front. Looking to spend the least amount of $$, but get some more towing capacity as well as better off-road performace. Thank you for the input.
 
C

cmondieyoung

Guest
Just go for the OME MD/HD setup all around. I have the MD on my project D1, and they're great.

I know all about scrimpin' cash, I'm a fuckin grad student. But you don't want to cut corners on these vehicles. Let the Jeepers do that.

Treat her nice and right. If you're not mechanically inclined, a decent wrencher should charge about $750-800 parts/labor (with steering dampender, I've heard of mechanics skimping on that) for the full setup.
 
P

Punchy325

Guest
Hey Cmon, you go to CU? I graduated from CU Engineering in '99. Sounds like the right thing to do is the OME all the way around...now there are no problems doing this with stock LR shocks?
 
C

cmondieyoung

Guest
Yeah, CU... phD student in archaeology (Dept. of Anthropology), did my MA at Wyoming and BA at Montana State/Northern AZ U.

I'm not sure what you mean by "are there no problems doing this with stock LR shocks"

The stock LR shocks on Discos are worthless. It's the same technology that's been used on cars since the Model T, essentially. The OME shocks are nitrocharged, and the ride afforded by OME shocks/springs are night and day compared with the stock setup.

The OME setup includes shocks, springs, and the aforementioned steering dampener. Not only will the ride be much improved, but you'll garner a couple inches of clearance to boot.

If you mean what problems are associated with swapping front and rear springs, I couldn't tell you. It sounds like a hack job to me, and those are generally to be avoided.

Just pony up for the MD/HD setup, you won't regret it. I used the MD because I never carried the sustained loads HD setups are often associated with. Don't be mislead into thinking the HD is "better" than the MD. The HD is just stiffer, to put it briefly, and has its plus and minuses.

Throw on some 31" tires, take out the rear sway bar (and the front, if you're an on-road masochist), and you've got a very capable little machine for $1000 or so.

P.S. I've been driving a stock 96 now for quite a while, with no intentions of upgrading. With a deft hand, my little girl loves to surprise me. Make sure you're ready to invest in taking your rig to a new level--once you start, your paychecks start looking skimpier and skimpier. :D
 
Last edited:
B

bri

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
6,184
155
US
Ron said:
Bri,
do you have aftermarket trailing arms or have you bent them?

Both have been fully articulated and niether hit the front of the rear wheel well.

fwiw
Click to expand...

Well, one thing I have found is that no Disco is the same. Mine rubbed the rear of the rear wheel well with 245/75 stock trailing arms and OME HD lift.

Then I fitted 3" RTE and 235/85. Started to get rubbing on the front of the rear wheel well (rear q-panel is trimmed, so that rubbing went away).

Then I did new HD rear links for a couple of reasons, the rubbing being one. It still rubs albeit slightly, but it will bend the metal. I have seen this on more than my Disco and it is a '95 FWIW.

I have recently moved to the EW lowered upper shock mounts and so far I have not noticed this problem, but have not formally tested it yet by getting on a whoopty with full stuffage.
 
B

bri

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
6,184
155
US
Punchy325 said:
Hey Cmon, you go to CU? I graduated from CU Engineering in '99. Sounds like the right thing to do is the OME all the way around...now there are no problems doing this with stock LR shocks?
Click to expand...

There are not any problems really, but when you have those front springs off, you will have to have the front shocks off too. If the stock shocks are leaking, replace them. In fact if they have more than about 30k miles on them, replace them.

Rear shocks can be done without removing the spring, but same leakage and wear apply.

Go HD all the way around, I would recommend this regardless of the load.

IMHO.

Brian
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom