Stalling, now no start

[Donno]

96 Disco 1 4.0 - has been running great.

Driving today, it lost power and died about 5 minutes after leaving home. Wouldn't start right again. Checked under hood, wiggled a few wires and a few minutes later it started right up again. Drive another 5ish minutes and it dies again. Won't start at all. Went and got some gas, put it in and it started up and ran for another 5 minutes then died. Sat for about 15, started and ran another 5 minutes then died and there it sits now for the past 6 hours. When I try and start her, it sputters a bit like it's catching then nothing. It is turning over. I've tried about 3 times in this time frame

It's about (you guessed it) 5 minutes from home. It's too dark so I'm leaving it for the night. Looking for troubleshooting tips that I can try tomorrow.

Thinking it might be the CkPS but the SEL is not staying on when cranking.
Next I'm thinking the fuel pump or relays in between.

Any suggestions? I'm searching in the meantime but input is appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Toran]

Are you getting proper fuel pressure?
When you try to start after it stalls is their any gauge action?
What under the hood wires are you wiggling?

I had a CkPS go bad on my D2, the sensor would need to cool down before the car would start again.

 

[CORover]

Check the fuse for the fuel pump. Then see if you have power on pin 85 for the relay with the key in the on position, I don't remember where it is though. 86 on the relay is ground, check for continuity there. You can pull the relay and jumper 87 and 30 to manually run the pump. If that works, it is a bad relay. I don't have one but a power probe is good for this kind of work.

I had similar symptoms on my P38. Pulled into to fill up and would not start after that. Came back the next morning and started right up. It would run for 9 minutes before it died. It needed longer to cool down though, about 2 hours. I lived 10 minutes from the gas station. I ran until it died, pulled over and went back 2 hours later and moved it the rest of the way home. It was the crank sensor.

 

[Donno]

Thanks for the info!

Stopped and tried to start her this morning on the way to work. Wouldn't start. Did poor mans test on the fuel rail and no pressure at all. So definitely looking like the fuel pump.

So I need to track down the fuse and the relay. Is the relay in the little black box on passenger side fender next to the washer bottle or under the dash on drivers side?

If it's the fuel pump, are they all the same units or do I need to be careful about a transition year?

 

[Lake_Bueller]

https://discoweb.org/showthread.php?t=14451&highlight=fuel+pump+replacment

 

[Donno]

Thanks for that link! Got my buddy to help me tow her home. Will start troubleshooting in the morning.

 

[AbnMike]

Lucky8 sent me a pump complete, for aobut $75. Mine's a 1996 Discovery SD non-ael. Super easy install though be careful with the screws since they may be rusted. If they look crappy (as in chewed up) soak in some PB blaster, then after about 30 minutes soak again, then after another 30 minutes put in the correct sized screwdriver (amazing how many people I've run across who use incorrectly sized screwdrivers and then strip screws and get mad) and rap the end of it a couple times with a hammer. They should break free then. Everything else is easy (but make sure you really clean the area out before removing it so you don't get crap in your tank.)

May as well get a fuel filter, too, and replace it at the same time. I think I got mine off Amazon. My nuts were still good so I didn't need to get the "kit" from AB with the extra rubber pieces.

 

[CORover]

I broke a couple of the plastic inserts for the cover screws and picked up a few at a salvage yard. I replaced the old rusted screws with SS ones too.

 

[Donno]

So an update...

Doesn't seem to be the pump, hooked up 12v directly and heard it running and pressure at the rail.

So I guess I start tracing where it gets power from. I probed the connections while cranking the engine and didn't see any voltage.

Probably worthwhile to check for spark as well at this point to rule things out?

A pic of what I found when taking the fuel pump cover which had all the screws removed already. :yawn:

 

[Donno]

Any way to test the multi function/fuel pump relay other than swapping it with a known good?

 

[Donno]

Tested the relay on another d1 and it's good. I have spark. No 12v on the wire to the fuel pump. Where should I be looking next?

 

[Toran]

Can you put a long test wire from the pump to the battery to rule out a possible wire shortage

 

[kk88rrc]

Make sure the inertia switch isn't tripped.

 

[Donno]

I've pulled the connector to the inertia switch and checked for 12v there and nothing.

 

[Toran]

I was looking at the image in post #9, this could be the issue or yet another concern. You can trace the fuel pump plug to the drivers wheel well.
May want to unplug it and see if its dirty, if so clean it and give it a little dielectric grease.

 

[KngTgr]

I just did this last week, multifunction relay, MAF, Crank Pos sensor, pump, it ended up being the pump wiring harness, im glad I changed the pump anyway, as judging for its appearance it wasnt going to last, I did try to supply power directly to the pump, and it dindt work, so it was probably bad too

 

[Donno]

Am I assuming correct that if I have spark and RPM on ODB2 tester when it's turning over that my CKP sensor should be good? At least not preventing power to the fuel pump?

Thanks

 

[Jagfixer]

I would check the taped connections and the burnt wire. See how far the wire has melted then replace. Then a fuel pressure test, check filter next to right rear frame and go from there.