Ok, so with steel wheels you need to run tubed tires right? So, my question, how does this work? I have only ever been around tubeless tires myself. Do you buy a tube somewhere and just slap whatever tire you want around the tube onto the wheel? Just curious--I have read the debates over why alloys are better than steel, and steel are better than alloys, blah blah, I dont want this to become a thread on personal opinion loosely backed up by some 'first hand stories'--I just want to know if you can get whatever tire fitted to a steel wheel by just throwing an inner tube in it....please help my brain grow with knowledge...
Steel wheel and tire question
- Thread starter NHESS81
- Start date
um, what steel wheels are you looking at??? I haven't seen a wheel that needs an intertube ( aside from my mountain bike ) in a long long long time....
GCR, Trek, SG, AB, and almost any where else you can get steel wheels for your truck are all made for radial/bias ply normal non tubed tires... no tubes needed..
GCR, Trek, SG, AB, and almost any where else you can get steel wheels for your truck are all made for radial/bias ply normal non tubed tires... no tubes needed..
Some ANR5593 Wolf wheels made for the Defender that had 'tubed' stamped in them...I have been researching more online, seems it doesnt matter, rim style didnt change much when they went tubeless because they wanted backwards compatability so that the older cars could buy the newer tires too....seems like this one is solved for now....lol...just wanted to pose the question and see what I got.
*hmm...noticed that Atlantic British has them but they are ANR5593PM, wonder if that PM means anything, I dont know, just was figuring that since Wolf makes both tube and tubeless wheels, there HAS to be a reason for the distinction, right?
*double edit: ok, as far as I know it doesnt matter tube or tubeless on the steels. They are damn cheap on AB too, less than 100 for a set of four...I am still keeping my eye out for a 2nd set of stock alloys, I just wanted to learn about the steels for my own decision making process in the future....
*triple edit: oooook, so its 5593 for tube, and 4583 for tubeless...so maybe it does matter, either way, anyone looking both are same price at atlantic british....peace out
*hmm...noticed that Atlantic British has them but they are ANR5593PM, wonder if that PM means anything, I dont know, just was figuring that since Wolf makes both tube and tubeless wheels, there HAS to be a reason for the distinction, right?
*double edit: ok, as far as I know it doesnt matter tube or tubeless on the steels. They are damn cheap on AB too, less than 100 for a set of four...I am still keeping my eye out for a 2nd set of stock alloys, I just wanted to learn about the steels for my own decision making process in the future....
*triple edit: oooook, so its 5593 for tube, and 4583 for tubeless...so maybe it does matter, either way, anyone looking both are same price at atlantic british....peace out
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NHESS81 said:
tubed have their advantages, but likely not for many things we do here in the US. African safari-- maybe, but not here IMO.
I don't know what you are looking at but if you found 4 wolfs for $100, get them and resell them for > 3x that price.
AS you see, some wolf's are for tube type tires. If you use a radial tire with tube, you have to use a radial tube, using a bias tube is a no-no. I'm pretty sure
A radial tube is fine in a bias ply tire however. With tubes, use tire talc.
A radial tube is fine in a bias ply tire however. With tubes, use tire talc.
Yikes!
I've got some of them "tube-type" Wolf / NATO wheels. They're fine, but bead retention stinks.
You better keep at least 25psi in them ... even then I've managed to knock two tires off the rim and shred the tube at the same time. Oh, and the instant deflation driving across Nebraska a few years ago was exciing too
Above illustrates why I now have a used set of "freestyle" alloys that the M/T's are going on before the next trip out to play
As far as I can tell, the tube-type Wolf / NATO wheels might be good for supporting the "highway" tires on the Series, but certainly not the best choice for USA off-road work.
KAA
I've got some of them "tube-type" Wolf / NATO wheels. They're fine, but bead retention stinks.
You better keep at least 25psi in them ... even then I've managed to knock two tires off the rim and shred the tube at the same time. Oh, and the instant deflation driving across Nebraska a few years ago was exciing too
Above illustrates why I now have a used set of "freestyle" alloys that the M/T's are going on before the next trip out to play
As far as I can tell, the tube-type Wolf / NATO wheels might be good for supporting the "highway" tires on the Series, but certainly not the best choice for USA off-road work.
KAA