Well, it did, Snapped at the UV joint to the box. But this was several years ago. So no pictures. But it happened.
Steering Box rebuild
- Thread starter mjbrox
- Start date
Well, it did, Snapped at the UV joint to the box. But this was several years ago. So no pictures. But it happened.
How did that box do ? Got some miles on it ? What would you have to charge for that repair to make it worth your while ? No shortage of leaking boxes that need yor help . The last time I put a steering box in a disco 1 it cost like $2500 .
It was leaking , this was like 10 years ago. But I always kept it topped off and when I was in a Food Lion parking lot the steering got tight and when I forced it popped. The place that repaired it just did a rebuild and said something to what you were talking about I think the U Joints did fail, Because where it mated with the box it the spline was stripped. And yes it was an expensive fix, not 2K but around 900 at the time. Uh mileage was around 200K.
Not you dummy . The evil genius who can rebuild one of these . Could you even get one out and.the pitman arm off ?
Wow here we go again. I thought you were directing your post to me. Yes, I can. Just did a rebuild on my 99 DII. I know it was not color by numbers but I was able to do it.
Not here . There was a thread in general that you make up lies and win prizes .
The rack pad adjustment is on the side. Looks like a big straight slot screw next to the trans cooling lines. This controls the mesh of the rack gear and sector gear. It is adjusted on assembly. Could be done in-situ.
The top adjuster is for the worm preload. The sector/pitman shaft has a follower on it that runs in the groove of the worm/input. Too tight and it will bind in the center. If adjusted correctly there will be a bit of effort at the center. Too loose and the truck won't track.
Sorry, I should have taken photos while I had it open. Maybe I'll ask for one of those eyeglass or headband cameras for Father's Day.Then it would be full video complete with bloody knuckles and muttering.
This thread is really helping me out. I just replaced the steering box in a 98D1. It all went well and I made sure I put everything back like it was but the steering feels super tight going straight down the road but then feels fine when you turn....either direction.
No leaks.....yet but I haven't driven it because of the steering issue. I take it that's the top adjustment? Any tips on how to adjust it other than just turn it and guess?
The aluminum is stressed and over time weakens. When aluminum work hardens it cracks or spalls. This is definitely the weak link in the system.
Mental note: fabricate a heat shield to proctect the box, lines, and u-joint. Oh, and mental note 2: add a small fluid cooler on the suction side. That fluid gets hot from the valve bypass and more so with exposure to the radiant heat from the manifold.
Me?
About 400 miles on the box so far. Next Friday we are taking it offroad. I am hoping to add the cooler before then.
So far not a drop. No a leak to be found on the steering gear. Have made a couple of tweaks though. Backed the rack pad adjuster off to the full 1/4 turn as Rover suggests (I started at 1/8 and it was a bit to much drag on center). Feels much better now.
Of course while in there working I disturbed the brake fluid reservoir so now it has a slow, slow drip. Now I have to order some of this Audi replacement seals.
Back off the rack pad adjuster about 1/8 of a turn. No more, then try it again.
If you are addressing me:
I dunno. The rebuild was straightforward but I can see that valve seals and correct shaft seals are critical.
I wouldn't be able to do them en masse. It would have to be a case-by-case basis. I'll give it some thought and check into a reliable source for the correct seals. I'd also need to set up a testing fixture with a pump. I wouldn't want to send them out untested.
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I understand . Liability could be a problem too . If your driving it now and have no problems I'm impressed .
I (2003 Disco) and the steering wheel is somewhat hard to turn, not impossible but certainly the most effort I have to use of any vehicle with a power assisted steering. Doesn't leak, no vibration or shimming just a little hart to turn the steering wheel.
Starting from the assumption that all the joints in the steering system are working correctly general high effort would point to wear in the internal valve of the steering box or the pump output. Low pressure can cause generally higher steering effort.
The rebuilt box has done over 1000 miles now. Mixed highway/town driving. A bit of off-road. Not a drop so far but like "lighting" I have higher steering effort than I'd like.
Next I'll test pump output. The effort decreases with higher engine RPM. I am betting the pump is worn out.
Next I'll test pump output. The effort decreases with higher engine RPM. I am betting the pump is worn out.
I ran across a Corteco part number that has the teflon valve seals. I was not able to find it as a current part number on Corteco's web site.
I did find a part number though. GSB-56515-1. This kit has the needed teflon seals.
I did find a part number though. GSB-56515-1. This kit has the needed teflon seals.
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Did you have some sort of sizer tools ? Or did you just get them hot and gently help them into place ? Back in the 80's we rebuilt a lot of power rack and pinion assemblies . I still have the tools for that . It was a huge problem for GM. It was in the news and it was called steering stiff cold . When you first started to drive the steering had no assist at first but then usually had good assist until the next time the car sat for a long time .
It was a long plastic thin tube that would line up with any one of the 4 grooves and let the seal slide on the tool until it fell into the groove . Then the sizer gets slammed over the spool to squeeze the teflon seal down into its groove .
Using a tool like the one in the workshop manual bored to correct ID and tapered on the OD works fine.
Warming the teflon seals up and slipping them on the mandrel works fine. Then while still warm slip the mandrel onto the valve and slip the rings into place one at a time. Just letting them cool contracted into place. No need to press or force them. Just take it slow putting the valve back in the housing so they aren't damaged.
Warming the teflon seals up and slipping them on the mandrel works fine. Then while still warm slip the mandrel onto the valve and slip the rings into place one at a time. Just letting them cool contracted into place. No need to press or force them. Just take it slow putting the valve back in the housing so they aren't damaged.