I have repeatedly broken or bent the current offerings for HD d2 steering stuff. My question is...has anyone fabbed their own stuff with DOM tubing and heim joints? If so...what do you use to replace the tapered tie rod ends?
steering links with heim joints
- Thread starter disco_drum
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3/8 wall DOM. Problem is you have to tap the ends with an 11/16th's tap. I bent my solid Rovers North tie rod and went with the DOM.
Tapping is not necessary if you weld these on the end of the DOM...
https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/125-HEX.html
https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/125-HEX.html
Thats true if you want to run anything other than Rover TRE's. Drilling out the knuckles was going to be more of a pain that it was worth. Plus I wouldnt want heims on my steering.
And for refference the ID of the DOM Im runnig is 5/8"
This guy did it https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ol8GrIgHKz8
He’s also working on an insane diesel conversation. By insane I mean very involved process
He’s also working on an insane diesel conversation. By insane I mean very involved process
Summit Machine makes Rover thread weld in tube adapters. I used them on my steering bars. I had a heim on my panhard rod. It was always developing slop and was just a general pain in the balls.
I have used Toyota FJ80 TRE. You will need a tappered reamer, the tapper is the same but the major and minor diameters are smaller on the LR stearing arms. I used 1” .125 DOM IIRC and welded in ends. I drive my stuff on the road and Heims style ends are not DOT approved. If you are at fault in an accident it is possible that your insurance will not cover you if you have non DOT stearing or braking components.
You're on your way to break the steering knuckles. If you repeatedly break TREs, time to consider a bigger axle.
On the DOT issue...steering components do not require approval like brake lines. DOT makes a statement about end play and slop. while not DOT approved, they aren’t because they don’t have a testing program that certifies individual components. If they weren’t legal, I doubt the 20 or 30 major companies selling them in kits for street use would be doing it.
There are several companies that make rubber boots for heims to keep the shit out of them like a TRE...which will extend their longevity
There are several companies that make rubber boots for heims to keep the shit out of them like a TRE...which will extend their longevity
Seriously, though... A 30-mm solid SS link is already mechanically stronger than the TRE arm on the cast-iron knuckle. I have never, once, in my life have broken a TRE - so my guess is that if that happened, it was within 30% of breaking the arm off the knuckle. Most heim joints are stronger than TREs with ball joints of comparable size, so that takes the last "fuse" out of equation.
It is nice, but serves no purpose.
The only real difference would be to sandwich the knuckle's TRE arm between two plates and use a heim joint in double-shear configuration.
Frank, what makes them better than standard TREs? Better steel the heim adapter is made out of? No chance of tearing the TRE's ball out of socket?
Simply using heims instead of TREs does not strike me as a purpose. You could use 1-ton GM TREs if you were unhappy with Land Rover stock.