What should I know? It'd be for outdoor family activities, towing small boat, snow, and fire roads. Looking at 265/60 KO2 tires if I go that direction.
Strongly considering LR3
- Thread starter ERover82
- Start date
1. Buy a specialized diagnostic computer for it - your garden variety Scangauge isn't going to speak LR3 dialect.
2. Get a thorough pre-purchase inspection.
3. Check to see if it's had technical service bulletins addressed.
4. Get service history.
5. Keep $3,000 in a bank account ready to fork out for repairs.
5. Bend over.
It's a good choice for what you want to do. Just make sure you set your expectations appropriately. The LR3 has some great things going for it, but it's not as easy to work on in your driveway as a D1.
2. Get a thorough pre-purchase inspection.
3. Check to see if it's had technical service bulletins addressed.
4. Get service history.
5. Keep $3,000 in a bank account ready to fork out for repairs.
5. Bend over.
It's a good choice for what you want to do. Just make sure you set your expectations appropriately. The LR3 has some great things going for it, but it's not as easy to work on in your driveway as a D1.
This more than anything.
TSB's are not like recalls. They they basically are there to tell technicians how to fix a particular issue if they encounter it.
I don't know what price range your in but in 08 things got much more reliable. If you can find one thats had the compressor updated to a HMK brand I think that would be a plus.
Roll along and jounce the front of the truck with the brake pedal at parking lot speeds and roll over some curbs. Kind of like entering a driveway from the street type bump. That will make broken control arm bushings knock and the bump will make the ball joint and swaybar link clack if they are loose.
Look for water in the sill area under the plastic trim. It will lift up easy with just your fingers and you can dig around in there looking for water. That's bad for all the splices that sit in those areas unprotected. 3 common leaks for that are sunroof drains,exterior a pillar trim, and the cowl cover not sitting tight against the base of the windshield. You know if its the 3rd one cause the pollen filter will be wet.
Shake the wheel bearings down in the front for any looseness. Listen for any drivetrain noise that could be a diff or the front output bearing on the t case.
look at the rear of the trans pan and if its wet from a leak look at the electrical connector to see if thats the leak.
Don't be scared...it's just a rover. It will tow your small boat great. I used to haul about 1 ton of 4 wheelers and trailer with an 05. Does a great job.
Roll along and jounce the front of the truck with the brake pedal at parking lot speeds and roll over some curbs. Kind of like entering a driveway from the street type bump. That will make broken control arm bushings knock and the bump will make the ball joint and swaybar link clack if they are loose.
Look for water in the sill area under the plastic trim. It will lift up easy with just your fingers and you can dig around in there looking for water. That's bad for all the splices that sit in those areas unprotected. 3 common leaks for that are sunroof drains,exterior a pillar trim, and the cowl cover not sitting tight against the base of the windshield. You know if its the 3rd one cause the pollen filter will be wet.
Shake the wheel bearings down in the front for any looseness. Listen for any drivetrain noise that could be a diff or the front output bearing on the t case.
look at the rear of the trans pan and if its wet from a leak look at the electrical connector to see if thats the leak.
Don't be scared...it's just a rover. It will tow your small boat great. I used to haul about 1 ton of 4 wheelers and trailer with an 05. Does a great job.
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We love ours, occasionally tow a 19ft boat with it. Towed it from Texas to NC with no issues, hardly knew it was there.
I got an extended warrantee with it and glad we did.
Since we have had it we have had the following replaced/fixed:
Cats
Lower control arms
TPS computer and all sensors (still chasing a fault)
DVD player
Air compressor
Coolant reservoir/expansion bottle
A few other small things.
Need to get the windshield washer bottle replaced
Over all though we love it and are thinking about keeping it after the warrantee runs out, just going to stash about $5K for repairs....
I got an extended warrantee with it and glad we did.
Since we have had it we have had the following replaced/fixed:
Cats
Lower control arms
TPS computer and all sensors (still chasing a fault)
DVD player
Air compressor
Coolant reservoir/expansion bottle
A few other small things.
Need to get the windshield washer bottle replaced
Over all though we love it and are thinking about keeping it after the warrantee runs out, just going to stash about $5K for repairs....
Thanks for the info. It's largely what I was expecting. An LR3 would better fit my evolving needs as the family grows and have less time for hard off-roading and wrenching. I'm also seeing that a D1 is never going to be the diesel soft top D90 I'd prefer for pure off-road, even if I had the time/money for it.
I'm looking at 05-06 LR3's under 10k. I'd probably use the same strategy as the Benz of doing what I can myself and everything else at an indy foreign shop while buying the parts myself to reduce cost. I've read the LR3 V8 is relatively reliable so I don't mind a higher mileage affordable specimen if it's been maintained.
I'm looking at 05-06 LR3's under 10k. I'd probably use the same strategy as the Benz of doing what I can myself and everything else at an indy foreign shop while buying the parts myself to reduce cost. I've read the LR3 V8 is relatively reliable so I don't mind a higher mileage affordable specimen if it's been maintained.
Lots of them seem to be hitting that price threshold, esp with some miles under them. The theoretical upside to the miles is that you can expect LCAs to have been replaced at least once, and likely the compressor issue to be dealt with.
Having both an 06 LR3 and a 96 D1 I have to say the LR3 is fantastic for road trips and day to day stuff, it also give me more flexibility with the D1. Having them split from each other halfway around the world gives good opportunity to examine strengths/weaknesses of each platform. I'll never get rid of my D1, but I'm also very happy I grabbed an LR3-they're awesome trucks.
Having both an 06 LR3 and a 96 D1 I have to say the LR3 is fantastic for road trips and day to day stuff, it also give me more flexibility with the D1. Having them split from each other halfway around the world gives good opportunity to examine strengths/weaknesses of each platform. I'll never get rid of my D1, but I'm also very happy I grabbed an LR3-they're awesome trucks.
The only issues that come to mind with the motor are lean faults caused by clogged injectors or any number of other things), and coolant leaks from the thermostat housing. They are the most reliable motor fitted to any Land Rover as far as I am concerned. They hold up surprisingly well to overheating.
Yes, keep getting a P0420-00: catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1) throwing CEL. Sometime it goes away after a few cycles, other times, needs to be reset. Going to replace the downstream O2 sensor, passenger side and clean the injectors. Currently have 165,000 miles in it. Love this truck.
I really liked my LR3 but as far as wheeling goes solid axles and springs just can't be beat. As far as a daily driver, the lr3 is a nice ride. If you do lca bushings replace them with the poly bushings. Also do the windshield cowl asap.
Ya solid axle trucks feel stronger out on the trail. Lr3 is great for just running around and hauling kids with the 3 rows of seating. Like Jymmie said this 4.4 jag engine is the best rover engine to date. The truck is very heavy, thats the only down side for me.
Opinions seem divided on LR3 trail capability. Some say it blows everything else away given good tires except for rock crawling.
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Since your going to be looking at some older trucks in that price range one more thing you need to look at. Pick up the rear wheel from the control arm and reef on the upper control arm bushings. That's pretty bad when those bushings get loose. Usually have to cut those out with a sawzall and replace the upper arm with all the bushings installed.
I just kind of listed all the thousand $ repairs a lot of them need. Most people go thru brakes in about 18 to 22k miles. Oil changes are 8
Quarts. And I would find a brass fitting to put in place of the shitty plastic bleeder t It's a small coolant line under the plastic engine cover. We never use that thing to bleed anything.
I just kind of listed all the thousand $ repairs a lot of them need. Most people go thru brakes in about 18 to 22k miles. Oil changes are 8
Quarts. And I would find a brass fitting to put in place of the shitty plastic bleeder t It's a small coolant line under the plastic engine cover. We never use that thing to bleed anything.
I've never seen that in person. I think that only happens in heavily salted areas. The rust isn't bad in Long Island and NYC.