Swapping out Trans Case

[Zebra]

Going North next weekend to pull and replace Borg/Warn trans case in a 91 RRC. I have the donor pulled but it was easy since the whole tranny was out of the truck. I know once I get there I will have to drop both drive shafts etc. Was wondering if someone can tell me if the Y-pipe will have to drop and or cross member has to be removed. If you have any tips I would appreciate it.


Thanks George

 

[parover]

well funny you say this.. well i just pulled the front v/c housing off of mine and i needed to remove the x member also you will need to remove the y pipe to get it out maybe even the muffler if its a junker then bring a battery sawzall.. and cut it out... you dont happen to have a good.v/c unit you dont need to you mine just locked up thanks eric

 

[rover4x4]

Ypipe has to go. the xmember doesnt have to come all the way out.

 

[Bamarover]

Bottle jack and wood block horizontally between frame rails to make xmember easier to move if need be

 

[rover4x4]

Bottle jack and wood block horizontally between frame rails to make xmember easier to move if need be

big hammer...

 

[galen216]

George, just did the bw to LT conversion in mine.

Y-pipe has to be pulled but the crossmember can stay in place.

One thing that really helps, there is a lip in the body just behind the tail end of the tc, beat it upwards with a hammer before you drop the BW. The BW just barely slides past that lip and bending it up out of the way helps a lot. I have some photos I will try and download tonight.

 

[Zebra]

George, just did the bw to LT conversion in mine.

Y-pipe has to be pulled but the crossmember can stay in place.

One thing that really helps, there is a lip in the body just behind the tail end of the tc, beat it upwards with a hammer before you drop the BW. The BW just barely slides past that lip and bending it up out of the way helps a lot. I have some photos I will try and download tonight.

Thanks Galen
Yeah photos would be great
I voluteered this service so any help would be great
When I look under the Zebra it looks like I could pull without dropping y pipe or cross member but that could be because of body lift and other things.

 

[Ren Ching]

ummm, did this on my rr a few months ago. left the y pipe in and the crossmember.

removed both trans mounts and lowered the lump until the gearbox pan was resting on the xmember.

had to pry up the lip on the rear body like galen was talking about.

if you had to pull the y pipe you just weren't persistent enough.

did have to disconnect the exhasut and drop the front of the center can.

remove the input shaft from the lt 230 before fitting. much easier that way as no splines to line up.

you need the front shaft from an lt230 disco.

and the RH side trans mount bracket from same.

be prepared to do engine and trans rubber mounts at the same time or shortly after.

Thanks Galen
Yeah photos would be great
I voluteered this service so any help would be great
When I look under the Zebra it looks like I could pull without dropping y pipe or cross member but that could be because of body lift and other things.

 

[galen216]

Ren,

He's replacing a BW with a BW, not an LT-230.

EDIT: Hard to see, but the lip is just above the rear of the BW, Just beat it up before lowering the BW.

 

[rover4x4]

I would be sure to replace the engine and transmission mounts. Youll cuss the bastard engineer that designed the wiring for the PS O2 sensor. Its worthwhile to go ahead and do the LT230 IMO. Maybe a good time to replace Ujoints and some seals. Its pretty easy to do. It makes is easy if you take the entire console out. the ebrake cable is 5' long. If you do change the motor mounts you will need a 7 or 8mm stubby wrench to get to the DS motor mount bolt. I also recomend a faceshield or goggles, lots of dirt and rust into the eyes.

 

[Zebra]

Thanks Guys I appreciate all the feedback

George

 

[Ren Ching]

Ren,

He's replacing a BW with a BW, not an LT-230.

oh. never mind then.