The one on the backside of the drivers door lock assembly that always breaks. I'm officially out of them and cant find a place selling them or even a part number. i'd gladly buy a dozen of them. So does anyone know of a vendor selling them?
I didn't know anybody offered the plastic pieces by themselves. Its such a pain in the ass when they break and cause so much trouble! I will be watching to see if someone comes up with them...I might even want to buy a few just to have! I have a few spare door handles with them on them as it is.
i've ran out of door handles to rob them off of. i was considering looking into the cost of having a place mold 100 or so of them, maybe even more. i guess i've been selling them too cheap.
PDXRovermech...if you need one as a go-by or need one for a customer in need, let me know. I can either lend you one or may take a "ya owe me one" for later...let me know
Bringing this back up. I know I've bought these new in the past, but can't recall where. I've had three customers in the past two weeks in need of them.
People... these plastic rings will break - the only way to keep them relatively intact is to use keyfobs. FWIW, a two-button D1 keyfob is now about fifty bucks on eBay, and it takes a trip to the dealer or a good indy shop to have it programmed.
Too bad it is more difficult for one-button remotes.
I just found this thingiverse link last weekend - www.thingiverse.com/thing:1306202 - after spending the last few months teaching myself the CAD program and designing one myself! - oh well, it was good research. I ordered one (the cam is all I needed) and had it printed in ABS, $6.75 including postage. When it arrived Thursday, I ran a piece of Scotch-brite thru the ID and it slipped right on and looks perfect. I'll get it installed today and report back. I also noticed on thingiverse, that they have the headlight pivots designed also, plus a few other items. Russ
I made mine out of aluminum- a little bandsawing and tig welding from some scrap plate. Holding up great. It replaced a epoxied plastic original that I repaired by gluing a length of TIG rod around the outside of the snapped ring- so as to give it a bit more strength where the protruding tab is. The repaired plastic one was holding up fine (I only use the key to lock/unlock) but I wanted more peace of mind.
Depends on the plastic. 3D print in nylon requires a high bed temp and a high extruder temp. Since I now have 3D printing in addition to CNC I am making all sorts of low stress parts. Like the switch panel in the armrest that crumbles. Maybe I'll put that on thingiverse.
Stainless Steel Door Lock Cam for Discovery 1 and Range Rover Classic.DIRECT replacement for STC1219 and STC1220. The originals were prone to breaking after repeated use and are no longer available.Our lock cams are made of Stainless Steel and will last a lifetime!
pitbullparts.com
Anyone tried this?
Broke one this morning. I've set of genuine replacements in reserve, but going to give these a shot first
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