The Great Locked Truck Riddle (for the thinking man)

[Houston]

Buckle up boys, this is a real puzzle.

As many of you know there are quite a few anti-theft systems that lock against each other in our trucks. There are several ways to lock the truck and there are several ways to unlock it, some of which are not equal.

I have a truck that is in a "Locked" computer state that I literally cannot unlock due to a set of circumstances that I will enumerate below.

Access I have:
I can open the door since I have used a rod to pull the handle from the inside.
The truck is now unlocked
I can put it in neutral when in the LOCK PANIC state the truck goes into.

Problems:
The truck is in a computer LOCKED state.
When I connect the battery and then insert the ignition key the horn honks and the lights flash.
The Ignition is not responsive
The DRIVERS SIDE DOOR LOCK must be used to enter a CODE to reset the LOCK PANIC state the truck is in.
The Dealer claims to not have a record for the trucks CODE

Keys:
(1) - Electronic fob key

- Turns the ignition but not the door.
- It is not paired with the truck (fob will not lock/unlock)

(1) - DI key
- Prior to the tampering this was the primary key for truck
- Worked on the drivers side lock a week after the tampering
- Stopped working on the door after IT LOCKED THE TRUCK via the drivers door lock

Summary:
I am locked out of the truck that I rebuilt, painstakingly and at great cost. I am at this point willing to do/try anything.
I am open to all suggestions and I will be monitoring and updating this thread until this situation is resolved.

I know I am an idiot for not having paired the electronic fob key to the truck. I was in the middle of a house renovation and didn't have the scratch to cough up to the LR Dealer to use their Testbook for 10 min.

 

[DarylJ]

The DRIVERS SIDE DOOR LOCK must be used to enter a CODE to reset the LOCK PANIC state the truck is in.
The Dealer claims to not have a record for the trucks CODE

The EKA code for all NAS Land Rovers is 5151.

Start with the ignition in position 2 and connect the battery. That on its own may resolve your issues. Otherwise try the EKA.

Edit: in case you don't know, to enter an EKA you turn the lock from the center position to the UNLOCK position for the first digit (returning all the way to the center and no further between digits), lock for the second, unlock for the third, and lock for the 4th. You should be able to hear the microswitch click as you do this.

If this all works and the fob still doesn't, try locking and unlocking the truck from the inside button 5 times with the doors closed. Then try to operate the locks with the fob.

 

[Houston]

I will absolutely try this when I get home, but I want to understand what's going on here. Pardon my potentially ig'nant questions...

EKA code= Emergency Key Access? Is this the "turn the door key five times left then one time right then five times left..."

What will starting the ignition in position 2 accomplish in the computer? Will it just trick it into thinking it's no longer in PANIC mode?

Like I said, endeavoring to understand the situation. Thank you and anyone else that has information.

DarylJ- This seems like obscure knowledge in the Rover world. Are you a LR tech?

EDIT- Remember that I cannot turn the drivers side door lock with any key, it is completely functionless.
How would I enter the EKA without it?
How would I repair it?
Can I remove it and take it to a locksmith?

 

[DarylJ]

Yes, you got EKA and the method correct.

ENERGIZING the truck (connecting the battery) with the ignition in position 2 is not only an LR thing, but a fair common method of keeping vehicle computers out of "fuck you mode" after a dead battery/low battery/whatever type of event. It worked a treat on the last D1 I resurrected, no EKA required.

All security related knowledge on vehicles is pretty obscure, on purpose. I'm not a dealer tech and never have been. I do side work as a troubleshooter for LR/Porsche/Audi/VW electrical issues both independently and as a contractor for several local garages. I am no longer a mechanic by trade and worked primarily on heavy diesels when I was.....I'm just an electronics/computer guy by trade who took an interest in cheap and interesting vehicles both for myself and to part/flip. This turned into me being somewhat of the go-to guy locally for ridiculous things like this.

 

[Houston]

Excellent. Like I said- I will be trying this when I get home. Please subscribe and continue to lend your valuable advice.

This really is ridiculous, but I do understand the reasoning in keeping these issues secure by way of obscurity. It just chafes people like myself who come to a very obscure set of circumstances honestly.

Thoughts on how to get the drivers door lock tumbler back in the game? Would a top-o-the-line automotive locksmith not balk if I brought in the whole assembly and the key and said "Make it work brother!"

I love this hope that I get with a new tactic tucked under my sleeve for the ride home. I get to muse that the problem is already solved and step-lightly for the rest of the work day.

 

[DarylJ]

Thoughts on how to get the drivers door lock tumbler back in the game? Would a top-o-the-line automotive locksmith not balk if I brought in the whole assembly and the key and said "Make it work brother!"

You don't likely even need a top of the line smith to do this. Hell, I figured it out on my first try after a bit of googling. This was for re-keying lock cylinders on an old Porsche when I was replacing door handles. I don't imagine it's much harder or even different for a D2 other than in getting the cylinder out.

 

[Houston]

For future viewers research needs.

http://www.drivewerks.com/tech/mult_lock_rekey.htm

 

[Houston]

Posting from my phone in the driveway.

Fully charged battery.
Key in ignition set to 2nd position.
Apply battery (-) terminal.

Result:
Blinking side markers
Horn
No ignition
Radio playing loud 94.5


WHY DOES IT MOCK ME!


I HATE 94.5!!

Ideas? Are we at rekey the door lock now?

 

[DarylJ]

Ideas? Are we at rekey the door lock now?

Or just pull it apart so you can work the switch manually to see if the EKA works.

 

[bldgrn1990]

Between you two guys I'm laughing my ass off. Houston I know its not funny to you but that was some funny shit. I hope you get it straight. Somewhere Lucas is laughing his ass off also.:rofl:

 

[Houston]

Rgr that. Never removed a door handle/lock before...

Actuator- many many times. Oddly after pulling this panel I found that I never changed this one before. Insane.

I'm actually very glad this is funny, also that I think I'm covering new ground on this forum.

Thanks Daryl. When this is over I'm sending you some local Houston brew.

 

[Houston]

I have to crutch on the forum at the moment because I left my computer with Rave at the office.

Anyone who which terminals on the actuator harness are lock poles and ground?

The 8 terminal plug that hits the actuator has got to be the access point to trick te computer into thinking I'm hitting the code into the lock.

 

[crown14]

Stop missing with the wiring...

Pull the door handle, its a single screw holding it on. There is one rod clipped to it and one rod permanently attached to it that goes into the actuator. Once you remove the handle you can enter the code with a screwdriver. Youll figure it out.

 

[discostew]

Stop missing with the wiring...

Pull the door handle, its a single screw holding it on. There is one rod clipped to it and one rod permanently attached to it that goes into the actuator. Once you remove the handle you can enter the code with a screwdriver. Youll figure it out.

x2 pull the torx screw and bump the handle towards the rear of the truck with the palm of your hand or a small rubber mallet,then it pulls straight out. probly wont have to enter the code just unlock it with the screw driver. the cylinder failed because the disco one key blank is not the same and tore up your tumblers.

 

[crown14]

Obviously door needs to be open, door panel off. Once the torx head screw is removed, I am pretty sure you have to bump it towards the front of the truck. First you need to unclip one rod on the back running vertical, this is the rod that is pushed downwards when you pull on the handle to open the door. And FWIW, the "D1" key blanks I use don't tear up anything, but if you use the blank from Lowes or Home Depot they might. Once the handle is out you may find that the actuator rod is broken. It happens a lot after people get locked out and someone tries to jimy jack the door. Shine a light in the door from outside and look for the white circle on the actuator where the cross head end of the actuator rod goes, this is where you insert the big screwdriver (gently) and enter your code. Dont tear up anything.

I am stripping trucks today for handles, actuators, ect. so if I can help just let me know.

 

[Houston]

Good stuff here guys. I will be working on this again this evening.

Like all great things this is a compounded problem.

This truck has been off-roaded pretty extensively. During one of my adventures I was tilting down a very narrow wash in West Texas when the truck leaned all the way over onto a mesquite stump.
The magic was that it ended up only leaning on the door handle.

I thought myself extremely lucky and laughed heartily.

Until I tried to remove the lock last night. It seems that the pressure pushed the stud that the hex screw threads into through the sheet metal in the jamb... this essentially has it "Locked" in place.

:banghead:

*golf-clap*

I think I can use a rod and a light hammer to bend it back out to the appropriate shape to allow its removal, but I believe the window frame will have to come off to allow me access enough to get the job done.

I pulled those two bolts and, once again in uncharted territory for myself, found that there is something side-view mirror related that is holding the frame in place still... Have to locate the fasteners for that and then slip off the frame.

See the pictures to appreciate the subtle trolling my truck shares with me.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/adventuretime/sets/72157629984931020/

 

[Houston]

Stop missing with the wiring....

Agreed- no wire touching.

 

[crown14]

http://youtu.be/WUs5pq1qz14

<iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/WUs5pq1qz14?rel=0" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="420"></iframe>

 

[crown14]

And once you get the handle out, this is where you stick it (the screwdriver)

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/cGY-0ep58jE?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[seventyfive]

joel, you can lead a horse to water, but........