Thule Super High Feet w/ lock cores

lwg

Well-known member
I have a set (4) of virtually new Thule Super High Feet with lock cores, and keys of course that I no longer need. I bought them on Sept 7th last year, ran them on my truck for about two weeks, been sitting in the garage ever since. These are the feet that allow full clearance over the backend of a D1 or D2. I am not going to sell these with the bars due to shipping problems with how big they are, 58". You'll have to get a set of bars locally.

$200 shipped.

Please email for best response.
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,766
566
Seattle
I'm interested, but have a complicated situation. I still have the raingutter mounted Yakima rack I put on my RRC and would like to stick with Yakima for my Disco since I already have bike & ski attachments for the round bars. After doing a little research I learned that Yakima's height insert for the gutter mounted towers still won't clear the roof of my Disco. Lame.

The Thule 953 (I think) feet will solve the height issue, but it would be way cheaper for me to buy a set of new towers to mount my rack onto the factory rails than it would be to make a complete switch to the Thule system.

I haven't seen the Thule feet in person, but I'm curious if there is a way to mix and match parts with the Yakima rack. Can the square brackets that hold the square Thule bars be swapped for the round brackets to hold Yakima bars, for instance?

I wouldn't be surprised if the engineers specifically designed the parts to prevent pesky people like me from doing this kind of thing. Anyway, if there is some way to adapt your Thule feet to my round Yakima bars then I'll bite.
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,930
203
Lake Villa, IL
I had your same issue, darn Yakima wouldn't fit. The Thule Super High Feet do clear the roof line. And the sunroofs can open fully.
The Thule bars will NOT accommodate Yakima bars and vice verse. The basic rack and mounting hardware is proprietary to each brand. The accessories, though; like bike racks, canoe and load stops, ski racks, etc; are most often able to be used with the opposite brand. You have to check to be sure first though. Interchanging accessories often involves breaking off tabs so you wouldn't be able to go back and forth between a Yakima and Thule rack with that accessory. Kinda lame.
Here's some pics of my Thule Super High Feet in action with 78" load bars. Hopefully these work. Also, my profile pic is of the roof rack utilizing canoe holders and a PVC rod tube secured with a Yakima Multi Mount.
P1150710.jpg


P1150743.jpg
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,766
566
Seattle
fishEH, thanks for your photos and explanation. My Yakima accessories attach to the bars using removable plastic brackets that tighten with a bolt/wingnut. If there is a possibility of simply replacing this mounting hardware with Thule's equivalent then that would be worth considering.

Going the Thule route looks like it has some pros and cons. I like the fact that you can position your crossbars anywhere along the roof and that they clear the factory rails & sunroofs. The height of the towers looks like it might create stability issues against the gutter attachment. The bars are so tall they create a long moment arm. How solid has your setup been? Do the feet/towers wobble?

Getting Yakima towers that attach to my Disco's factory rails won't give me the flexibility in where gear sits since there isn't much distance to work with to spread the bars. But this will allow me to continue to use all my accessories without modification. If I mount my rack so far forward on my roof, though, then the ladder on my cargo door becomes useless. At least it will still look cool.

The most I would carry on my roof would be two mountain bikes and a cargo box filled with clothes/sleeping bags/light stuff. I don't think I would exceed the 150-pound weight limit that the manual says the factory rack will support. I say that now, though I may find new and interesting ways to put stuff on my rack.

A bit of a conundrum...
 

lwg

Well-known member
Tugela said:
Going the Thule route looks like it has some pros and cons. I like the fact that you can position your crossbars anywhere along the roof and that they clear the factory rails & sunroofs. The height of the towers looks like it might create stability issues against the gutter attachment. The bars are so tall they create a long moment arm. How solid has your setup been? Do the feet/towers wobble?

FWIW, I had a rooftop tent mounted to mine. Many others do the same. Hopefully that answers your wobble questions.
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,766
566
Seattle
Thanks for the helpful input, folks. Much appreciated. I'm beginning to think that the best course of action will be to ditch my Yakima system and rebuild my setup around these Thule feet and bars. The photos and suggestions have been great.
 

lwg

Well-known member
Tugela said:
Thanks for the helpful input, folks. Much appreciated. I'm beginning to think that the best course of action will be to ditch my Yakima system and rebuild my setup around these Thule feet and bars. The photos and suggestions have been great.

Unfortunately that's usually the case between Yakima and Thule. And of course Yakima doesn't make any real options for the Disco other than attaching to the factory load bars which is very limiting.

Let me know if your interested in them. I'm moving to Bend right now but the bars are still in Portland.
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,766
566
Seattle
Larry, I have a lead on an identical setup locally in Seattle. If you find another buyer go ahead and sell them. I'd like to take them off your hands but if I can save myself the 360-mile drive I will. If you still have them the next time I come to PDX I'll grab them.