Tie rod end

[danielm60660]

I had a mechanic look at my truck and he tells me three tie rod ends (ball joints) need replacing. He wants to charge me $600.00 for all three and a steering damper. That sounds like a lot of coin. I would like to know how difficult a job is this and has anyone bought the parts from Nathan. If so what should I expect to spend for three ball joints. Also, what special tools are needed, if any? My pop has offered to help and he is a formed big-rig mechanic. He has done similar jobs before and says he can do the job with my help. (he's getting up there and can't do a whole lot of heavy duty stuff).
Thanks for your help,
Daniel

 

[MUSKYMAN]

the job is simple with the right tools

without a impact and the right socket a simple job gets more complicated.

once the parts are in place it will need the toe setting adjusted. this should cost about $30 at most alignment places.

You may just want to get the Parts and have the alignment guy install them . most alignment shops that do alot of medium size trucks (1 to 5 ton)will give ya the best deals I'v found . because they do that exact type work all day every day your little disco will be a cake walk. where as the car orientated alignment shops are looking for a way to explain there 5 way alignment system and they will only install there sourced parts...blah blah blah $500 alignment deal.

at the $600 quoted price your guy had, I would get some really beefy after market stuff put them on myself and flip for the $30 alignment.

But thats just me

MM

 

[Apexdisco]

I had a mechanic look at my truck and he tells me three tie rod ends (ball joints) need replacing. He wants to charge me $600.00 for all three and a steering damper. That sounds like a lot of coin. I would like to know how difficult a job is this and has anyone bought the parts from Nathan. If so what should I expect to spend for three ball joints. Also, what special tools are needed, if any? My pop has offered to help and he is a formed big-rig mechanic. He has done similar jobs before and says he can do the job with my help. (he's getting up there and can't do a whole lot of heavy duty stuff).
Thanks for your help,
Daniel

Simple DIY'er. Hit the ends with some PB Blaster or other penetrating oil about 24 hrs prior to tackling this one. If you have trouble getting the tie rod ends off, place the end in a vise and use a pipe wrench to loosen them up.

I got parts from British Pacific at a very good price. If your looking to save money, shop around.

 

[95.D1.Rick]

Daniel, I replaced the ends on tie rod & drag link recently, and I have minimal tools, and even less mechanical ability. A vise was handy for spinning the ends off. They were reasonable through Nathan. It is a fairly easy job, dont be in a hurry. A good set of jack stands is a must, and will get lots of future use. Dont overtorque the nuts when finishing, NAPA rents torque wrenches no cost. Alignments are cheap, and worth the cost. But you can easily do that yourself too, with the curtain rod method. The RAVE CDROM and Haynes Manual, and this website are essential help. Then you can kick some of the money you saved back at this website so they can finish the upgrades! I miss the archives, great resource.- Rick

 

[Mike_Rupp]

For $440 + shipping, you can have a much better system than stock.

$235 - Rovertym steering links
$75 - Stabilizer relocator
$70 - Tie rod ends
$60 - OME d90 stabilizer (Expedition Exchange)

A couple tips: A little trick I learned here to remove tie rod ends (from the knuckle - not the tie rod) is to hit the knuckle with two hammers from opposing directions right by the tie rod end. The end will pop right out.

Use anti-seize when screwing in the tie rod ends. This will save you a big headache if you need to remove them a few years later.

Don't worry about using a torque wrench to tighten the tie rod end nuts.

 

[dent]

some automotive shops will loan you a fork just for the purpose of removing your tie rod. It's just like the air hammer except you whack it with a hammer...
sam
sorry, let me clarify... automotive as in autozone or something like that not a shop... just didn't want any confusion

 

[95.D1.Rick]

Tie rod fork @ VIP $9.99.

 

[bri]

One of the first repairs that I have had to do and depending on the year and crud under there PB, vice and big pipe wrenches make it much easier.

If you have the $600 do what Mike says. Then you have all new stuff and it is just a matter of getting the old off. New should go easy. Of course, if you have not down toe adjustment, this will be some measuring and experimenting but it is a good thing to learn.

Brian

 

[marc olivares]

A couple tips: A little trick I learned here to remove tie rod ends (from the knuckle - not the tie rod) is to hit the knuckle with two hammers from opposing directions right by the tie rod end. The end will pop right out.

LOL!
oh man this kills me, i believe it was your brother called me a "hack" when i offered up the two hammer tech? kids these days.

 

[JeffreyDV]

If you are replacing the ends anyway, just take off the nuts and hit the stud with the hammer. Who cares if you screw up the threads, you are replacing them.

 

[RangeRoverHP]

If you are replacing the ends anyway, just take off the nuts and hit the stud with the hammer. Who cares if you screw up the threads, you are replacing them.

Your right, who cares about the threads. But, if you mushroom the ends of the studs, they won't fit through the hole in the arm of the knuckle.
dent's fork method or Mike/marc's hammer method are the ones I use. They work well.

 

[Steve Rupp]

Marc, if I called you a hack, then I take it back. I've tried your method and I'm convinced it is the only way to go.

Forget the forks

 

[marc olivares]

Marc, if I called you a hack, then I take it back. I've tried your method and I'm convinced it is the only way to go.

Forget the forks

Awesome.....soon every one will employ my methods and then i will take over the world!!!! no one will be safe!!!!

 

[MUSKYMAN]

sounds like my post was mis-understood.

the impact wrench is in no way to use a archaic fork. or would I use a air-chisel with a fork

the impact and sockets is to remove the ends from the tie rod and drag link.

and having the right sockets makes the job a joy.

as far as the hammer trick goes...its the way to go.

the reason it works so well is the knuckles are very soft and maliable. otherwize they would crack and break . when you smack it from both sides the part deforms and the "ramps" on the tapered pin push it out.

 

[marc olivares]

the reason it works so well is the knuckles are very soft and maliable. otherwize they would crack and break . when you smack it from both sides the part deforms and the "ramps" on the tapered pin push it out.

that and maybe Newtons third law of motion.......

 

[Apexdisco]

Awesome.....soon every one will employ my methods and then i will take over the world!!!! no one will be safe!!!!

thats how I got mine off. quick and easy.

 

[Rocky]

Did you ask your mechanic why?

Did you ask him to look? IF so what symptoms did you tell him about?

 

[danielm60660]

Chris,
Therre's a lot of play in the front tires when up on a jack stand. (side to side) The wheel bearings need to be repacked, etc also, but I'll combine that with the brake pad, rotor job.
I think the job needs to be done, just don't want to pay $600.00 if I can help it.
Daniel