1990 RR how long would it take to change all the bushings and tie rods on the truck and about how much would it cost ?
tie rods and bushings RR 1990
- Thread starter MontrealRR90
- Start date
I just did the Tie Rods (Track Rod ends) a couple of weeks ago. I think mine were original and it took some effort to break them loose. All in all, maybe an 1.5 hours. I didn't do any bushings though. The tie rod ends are around $40 each from Rovers North.
I recently replaced the suspension bushings on my 89 RRC It took me a week of evenings to complete.
I removed one peice at a time and took it to a machine shop to have the old bushings pressed out. This cost $6 per bushing.
The replacement poly bushings were around $120
I removed one peice at a time and took it to a machine shop to have the old bushings pressed out. This cost $6 per bushing.
The replacement poly bushings were around $120
my suggestion
I like the iron man bushings from Rovers north as they are one piece and are softer than the red or blue ploy two piece kits. I think Bearmatch bushings are also one piece so check out dap rovers. A press will be your best friend. We had to use an air chisel to get my original VERY rusty bushings out, but this is not recommended! It took me a solid weekend to get the bushings done. I would suggest buying all new lock nuts also from RN. You might also consider changing your pan hard rod bolts as sometimes they wear out. My only other suggestion with the Poly bushings is to replace the pan hard rod bushings with the rubber original ones. They will last longer and I ended up changing them back a couple years later and it tracks MUCH better.
With the tie rods, you gotta be tempted to buy the HD tie rods and ends from DAP. They dont cost much more than the ends themselves and are greaseable. The only drawback is you have to relocate the stablizer but if you wheel it these will both be great upgrades. Note though if you have an early rangie with the ball joint steering link at the drag link, you will need to buy that seperately. Enjoy. Gordo
One more thing if you do buy the DAP rods/ends. Be sure to give them the measurement of the front tie rod. Otherwise you may get the wrong one. (Ive seen this happen twice). I also had to cut the end of the original threaded sleeve at the drag link slightly. (only if you have the ball joint type drag link instead of the later style tie rod) No biggie as it is LONG anyway.
I like the iron man bushings from Rovers north as they are one piece and are softer than the red or blue ploy two piece kits. I think Bearmatch bushings are also one piece so check out dap rovers. A press will be your best friend. We had to use an air chisel to get my original VERY rusty bushings out, but this is not recommended! It took me a solid weekend to get the bushings done. I would suggest buying all new lock nuts also from RN. You might also consider changing your pan hard rod bolts as sometimes they wear out. My only other suggestion with the Poly bushings is to replace the pan hard rod bushings with the rubber original ones. They will last longer and I ended up changing them back a couple years later and it tracks MUCH better.
With the tie rods, you gotta be tempted to buy the HD tie rods and ends from DAP. They dont cost much more than the ends themselves and are greaseable. The only drawback is you have to relocate the stablizer but if you wheel it these will both be great upgrades. Note though if you have an early rangie with the ball joint steering link at the drag link, you will need to buy that seperately. Enjoy. Gordo
One more thing if you do buy the DAP rods/ends. Be sure to give them the measurement of the front tie rod. Otherwise you may get the wrong one. (Ive seen this happen twice). I also had to cut the end of the original threaded sleeve at the drag link slightly. (only if you have the ball joint type drag link instead of the later style tie rod) No biggie as it is LONG anyway.
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