tire question
- Thread starter Lino
- Start date
D
discokid99
Guest
Not much you can do here other than trade in your alloy wheels for off-set steelies.
I'm assuming you mean they rub on the front radius arms. If you are otherwise stock, they may also be rubbing on the front bumper/spoiler, in which case you may want to hack off the corners (see tech section) or upgrade to an aftermarket steel bumper.
Most of us have some rub on radius arms at full turn. It's all part of the deal.
I'm assuming you mean they rub on the front radius arms. If you are otherwise stock, they may also be rubbing on the front bumper/spoiler, in which case you may want to hack off the corners (see tech section) or upgrade to an aftermarket steel bumper.
Most of us have some rub on radius arms at full turn. It's all part of the deal.
A
adamzerr
Guest
SCSL said:
Ditto--you get used to it after awhile and adjust your steering technique accordingly. All the tire rub does is leave a shiny spot on the radius arm anyway. What about he noise?--it's just another harmonious note in the sweet music of Rovering!
Lino said:
Adjust the steering stops. I am going to post a pic of a D1s. The DIIs are just about the same. Just back them out a sixteenth inch at a time and keep testing until you don't hear the rub. It is best to test in reverse with the wheel cranked while dipping out of say a driveway onto the street where you get a little bounce.
Good Luck!
Mike
Last edited:
A
adamzerr
Guest
I know where they are but thy look like they are all the way out but maybe not. What is the nut on the other end?
I'm not sure what nut you are speaking of because the steering stops are screwed directly into the steering knuckle, there is no nut that I'm aware of. I have mine turned out about a standard washers thickness to compensate for 265/75/16 BFG ATs. The threading is tight so they don't move around after backing them out, but if you feel better about it you can remove the stop completely and shim it using washers to whatever thickness works for your specific configuration.
When I speak of mine I am speaking of a DII. The DI is similar as pictured above except the DII has more room for fatter tires to begin with so there is less to adjust. If you have a DI and your stop is too short I imagine you can get a longer bolt to use. Just keep in mind for every turn out you lose some turning radius.
When I speak of mine I am speaking of a DII. The DI is similar as pictured above except the DII has more room for fatter tires to begin with so there is less to adjust. If you have a DI and your stop is too short I imagine you can get a longer bolt to use. Just keep in mind for every turn out you lose some turning radius.
Last edited:
the nut is the set nut...back it off...back the bolt out and tighten the set nut down again.
LOL...funny how many times I have heard people on here say they turned the bolt so hard it broke without moving
LOL...funny how many times I have heard people on here say they turned the bolt so hard it broke without moving
one more thing...I never moved mine
I use the rubbing noise as a "if you gas it now you'l break a CV indicator"
the more you turn the wheel the weaker the CV gets when power is transferred through it. at full lock a CV maybe has 1/2 the strength.
I use the rubbing noise as a "if you gas it now you'l break a CV indicator"
the more you turn the wheel the weaker the CV gets when power is transferred through it. at full lock a CV maybe has 1/2 the strength.
