That's a bit far fetched for me to believe. For two reasons.justinhaaga said:
That's more than new, and there's not enough room for an aluminum adaptor.
Tom Woods Custom Shafts
- Thread starter Redback
- Start date
That's more than new, and there's not enough room for an aluminum adaptor.
GBR quoted me $15 more than TW for a new shaft, Bill wanted $399, TW wanted $385
$499 sounds a bit high unless he's throwing in a free bong
does anyone know if bills $399 shaft also use an alu spacer? I didnt ask him...went with having him pop some new u's into my 12k mile old front shaft which rides glass smooth with my 2.5" lift. he suggests the problems not torque but wear, so by his logic keep the u joints in good shape and in HIS opinion, they are strong enough. if folks are twisting these up i'd like to know...
Do many folks who get the RTE3" get the TW $580 Multi DC shaft??
I get cheepy one for $175-mine rebuilt(not eggasctly cheep!) watch it and see 1st.
I'd like to see about getting a drive shft loop made up and welded to my crossmember, good insurance me thinks
$499 sounds a bit high unless he's throwing in a free bong
does anyone know if bills $399 shaft also use an alu spacer? I didnt ask him...went with having him pop some new u's into my 12k mile old front shaft which rides glass smooth with my 2.5" lift. he suggests the problems not torque but wear, so by his logic keep the u joints in good shape and in HIS opinion, they are strong enough. if folks are twisting these up i'd like to know...
Do many folks who get the RTE3" get the TW $580 Multi DC shaft??
I get cheepy one for $175-mine rebuilt(not eggasctly cheep!) watch it and see 1st.
I'd like to see about getting a drive shft loop made up and welded to my crossmember, good insurance me thinks
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I agree. IMHO that pic shows the shaft was damaged. Once the shaft wall is compromised it cannot withstand torsional loads and "wraps up".
You can build shafts with thicker walls but what happens when your shaft hits something? You transmit the shock to the u joints, pinions, bearings, etc. If you do only bend the shaft, you may be able to move but you're not driving home on the freeway with it still mounted.
My front GBR DC shaft has been great. I also have dealt with Bill on many occasions with no problems. I don't know what Justin's beef is.
FWIW, High Angle Driveline will custom make Land Rover shafts. It will cost you a pretty penny. I visited their old shop (they've since moved across town-they are located in my home town where I grew up) and they can pretty much build whatever you want.
You can build shafts with thicker walls but what happens when your shaft hits something? You transmit the shock to the u joints, pinions, bearings, etc. If you do only bend the shaft, you may be able to move but you're not driving home on the freeway with it still mounted.
My front GBR DC shaft has been great. I also have dealt with Bill on many occasions with no problems. I don't know what Justin's beef is.
FWIW, High Angle Driveline will custom make Land Rover shafts. It will cost you a pretty penny. I visited their old shop (they've since moved across town-they are located in my home town where I grew up) and they can pretty much build whatever you want.
gmookher said:
175 to replace the u-joints?...man that hurts...can you walk up right yet?
also the driveshaft loop is a dumb idea...all it will do is limit articulation and cost money to install.
this isnt drag racing where the rear ujoint pops on launch and the the shaft sits in the loop all happy waiting for a replacement. If you do put a loop in there and the center bearing in the shaft fails the double cardin joint will still flip around and still reach the slush box causing a buncha damage.
I hate to tell you but when you "upgraded" your stock shaft you simply replaced the ujoints you didnt do squat for the center bearing that fails locks up and causes the catostrophic damage on these things when the casting fails.
MUSKYMAN said:
I just received mine from Tom Woods and I'm very happy with it and their service. The price you see on their website is what you pay + $5.00 for packing in the lower 48. And they have a great warranty for 20 percent of the cost of the DS.
Exclusive
Trail Hazard Protection Warranty
This is offered as a damage protection service only on our better grade of drive shafts. Fairly straightforward (no attorneys involved). Basically this plan is designed to limit your loss in the event of an unforeseen failure.
The cost of this plan is an additional 20% of the retail price up front. Then if you are ever out wheeling and run over a rock, bend the tube or are just beating your way up a hill and the drive shaft breaks, all you will have to do is send the drive shaft to us and we will either repair or replace the shaft and return it to you (UPS ground) at no charge. In most instances this 20% charge will be considerably less than the cost of a simple re-tube of the drive shaft from your local shop. This warranty will cover one repair/replacement of a purchased drive shaft.
Limitations to this plan are that maintenance will always be the customer’s responsibility (i.e.. grease). The damage must be evident as a failure of, or damage to the drive shaft from trail hazards such as rock damage etc.. and not a result of failure to related components. For example; if your strap & bolts on the pinion yoke you already had, break and create the damage to the drive shaft. This would not be covered. However, if you had purchased the Trail Hazard Protection along with a new pinion yoke and the same failure occurred, you will be covered. If the drive shaft has been modified from it’s original form or otherwise reworked, by any individual or company other than ours, the protection plan will be voided. (I can only guarantee the quality of our workmanship and parts)
Warranty Policy
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antichrist said:
Yes i understand, my comment did mean even if greased on a regular basis and i was only refering the Australia, the conditions out here are very extreme, i do alot of outback touring and these DC shafts are not doing the job for long enough, aspecially with a lift.
Thanks everyone, the regreasable will do until funds allow me to upgrade.
one thing i must say about the prices of the shafts in the US, is compared to here they are very cheap, they sell DC shafts here from $1000 +, so for me after conversion to aussie dollars $669 is a bargin
Baz.
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I actually know of a bunch of instances where GBR shafts twisted up like that. I beleive it was due to a bad heat-treat or something. One of my buddies did that to his GBR shaft going up a smooth dirt hill that couldn't have been more than a 10-15* slope, just driving along and all of a sudden the truck stoped moving (CDL was not locked as it was less than a fire-road) and he heard a whap-whap noise from bellow, sure enough the shaft was done. Bill did cover it under warrenty, but still....
For my money I'll stick with a stock D2 drive-shft rebuilt with servicable u-joints and run it untill I have an issue. Then get a Tom Woods or have custom shafts built, another of my freinds just had some built for his RRC and they're as nice as any I've seen.
For my money I'll stick with a stock D2 drive-shft rebuilt with servicable u-joints and run it untill I have an issue. Then get a Tom Woods or have custom shafts built, another of my freinds just had some built for his RRC and they're as nice as any I've seen.
4 is "a bunch" to me. Never seen a properly maintained stock D2 shaft do that, especialy while literaly just driving up a small smooth trail. Sorry, but I just can't justify spending that kind of cash on something I've seen that many unexplainable failures on, even if it is only 4.
sorry but this is just bull shit
shafts dont just fail like that without the tube being damaged.
I am not Bill's biggest fan in any way.
but I have to say the fact he waranteed a twisted shaft shows he stands behind his stuff.
driveshafts twist like that when the tube has been damaged...thats how it happens...load it bang it and twist it.
just because these are rovers dosent make them play by any other rules, jeep,scout,chevy blazer, full size pick-up...they are all the same driveshafts fail from being damaged and then the load twists them right up.
shafts dont just fail like that without the tube being damaged.
I am not Bill's biggest fan in any way.
but I have to say the fact he waranteed a twisted shaft shows he stands behind his stuff.
driveshafts twist like that when the tube has been damaged...thats how it happens...load it bang it and twist it.
just because these are rovers dosent make them play by any other rules, jeep,scout,chevy blazer, full size pick-up...they are all the same driveshafts fail from being damaged and then the load twists them right up.
Something fishy there.
Well, in any case, a stock DII front propshaft is plenty fine for probably 99% of the land rovers out there, if they are rebuilt and maintained with greasable u-joints and a new center kit.
Well, in any case, a stock DII front propshaft is plenty fine for probably 99% of the land rovers out there, if they are rebuilt and maintained with greasable u-joints and a new center kit.
Another little issue with D2 shaft is the rusting due to the condensation from the AC dripping onto the shaft...
Mine is fully rusted and of the three greasable UJ's they are only showing grease on one cap each......then I require a new center piece while Im at it.....plus the time to do it.
and even when I'm done.....the rust has probably weakened the shaft already...
TW new shaft for $ 389....
issue's with the aluminum flange adaptor ? nope...
Mine is fully rusted and of the three greasable UJ's they are only showing grease on one cap each......then I require a new center piece while Im at it.....plus the time to do it.
and even when I'm done.....the rust has probably weakened the shaft already...
TW new shaft for $ 389....
issue's with the aluminum flange adaptor ? nope...