D
D Chapman
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emmodg said:
I've seen one "frozen" ARB....in a Jeep Scrambler. He had moisture in his air line and it froze. It could have been prevented, but at the time, it was a PITA.
Toy conundrum...
- Thread starter emmodg
- Start date
I've seen one "frozen" ARB....in a Jeep Scrambler. He had moisture in his air line and it froze. It could have been prevented, but at the time, it was a PITA.
D
D Chapman
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emmodg said:
I don't know what you're adding to come up with $3,500. Keith's kit is $1,800, and the diff is 900.00 from Inchworm. There is a little extra money needed for freight and wiring and switches. So let's say it's $3,000.
http://www.rovertracks.com/products/driveline.html
A Rover front end will cost you ~$2,200. That's $1,500 for the built 3rd, and 700.00 for axles/CV's. (Not using GBR prices here). Or course there's some freight and additional wiring here, too. So lets say $2,400.
It's a $600 difference in your front end. Your Toyota rear end may counter some of that $600.00 difference. So overall, the entire Toyota "kit" (front and rear) may cost you an additional $300.00 and some additional work.
You'd be fine with Rover gear. It just depends on what you want to do with your truck. If it were me, I'd do ARB's and Rover bits.
But yes, I could do the machining to save you a few bucks....
I have seen issues with arbs but I think we are splitting hairs as to eithers reliablity. If you don't like the HP e locker sell it & find an arb on ebay ??
Like Dan said your more likly to have problems elsewhere. I can understand the doe I have a toy hp elocker under the bench & 2 kids in private school. HMM.
DUDE, never seen a frozen ARB.
thats cuz it doesn't get cold where you are...........
Like Dan said your more likly to have problems elsewhere. I can understand the doe I have a toy hp elocker under the bench & 2 kids in private school. HMM.
DUDE, never seen a frozen ARB.
thats cuz it doesn't get cold where you are...........
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why not do a complete fzj80 housing swap??? cheaper brakes, wheels bearings ect... and you can turn 37's with no upgrade.
i have seen complete f-r axle sets locked for 1500. check www.ih8mud.com
you can get cables to remove the elec locker mechanism, but they typically dont fail and there is a nifty skid plate to protect it out there.
i have seen complete f-r axle sets locked for 1500. check www.ih8mud.com
you can get cables to remove the elec locker mechanism, but they typically dont fail and there is a nifty skid plate to protect it out there.
D
D Chapman
Guest
Where's this $900 built 3rd from inchworm? No waaaaay you're getting a $900 locker/3rd from inchworm. http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/index.php?cPath=25_58
As far as 3rd housing: The Toy e-lock housing is different than a non e-lock housing. If the e-locker breaks and you wanna stuff a plain old open carrier in, while you come up with $900 for an ARB or find another used e-locker, you have to find a way to plug the holes in the carrier housing left from the old e-locker or it'll leak. If you bust an ARB or whatever in a "regular" 3rd housing you can stuff anything in without having to worry about leaking gear oil. It's the housing that makes the difference not the carrier in the above scenario.
As far as 3rd housing: The Toy e-lock housing is different than a non e-lock housing. If the e-locker breaks and you wanna stuff a plain old open carrier in, while you come up with $900 for an ARB or find another used e-locker, you have to find a way to plug the holes in the carrier housing left from the old e-locker or it'll leak. If you bust an ARB or whatever in a "regular" 3rd housing you can stuff anything in without having to worry about leaking gear oil. It's the housing that makes the difference not the carrier in the above scenario.
D
D Chapman
Guest
I guess Inchworm has gone up in price 200.00.
As for the e-locker "breaking", I don't think you have anything to worry about.
As for the e-locker "breaking", I don't think you have anything to worry about.
I highly doubt you're going to break an elocker carrier if you don't plan on running over 35's and as you say don't beat on your truck that bad. However, I'm with you on the complexity of that carrier. Something about that locker just doesn't do it for me. I don't know if it's having one huge carrier bearing and one small one, or the fact that like you say you're pretty much limited to that carrier in that housing. I would just do an ARB and be done. The ARB is a super strong carrier and they have always worked flawless for me. Plus you can put a 33 spline side gear in it and run bigger axles with no modifications to the carrier.
Whenever someone says they don't plan on running 35s I have to smile... Plans change... When you decide to go to 37s that $300 or whatever it is that you save by staying with rover stuff won't mean a whole lot when it breaks every time out.
emmodg said:
just to let you know the e-lockers slow way down in the cold...infact they are worse then the ARB's in cold weather.
the biggest issue with the ARB's in winter is the same one that plagues the e-locker and its not water. Its thick gear lube.
One thing we do before snow runs is to climb under and disconnect the lines at the diffs and blow the line clear of any gear lube or ice pellets from the heat of the compressor. this takes all of about 2min each locker and makes for a whole day of perfect operation.
Also I cant stress enough how the big oversized breather prevents ARB issues.
I regret not going toyota now. If I had it to do over I would do the toy swap but still use the ARB's.
D
D Chapman
Guest
I run two Different set up's in my trucks. The "little truck on 285's has a Toy rear and a Rover front. The rear is a Detroit the front is an ARB, 4.11 gears. Plus all the HD stuff.
I will trust this set up to 35's with moderate driving and figure it's a pretty balanced arrangment as far as strength goes.
The "big" truck has a 35 spline Salisbury and a Toy E Locker up front (with factory type voltages at the actuator) 4.11 gears it's on 35's,37's next with a gear change to at least 4.56's. I've never worried about stupid breakage on this car and the last damage was from me being stupid.
My 110's plan is Toy front and 35 spline Salisbury rear on 4.88's. with a 1:1 T case. Probably with ARB in the front, because I got a reasonable price on a new front third (open) and a Detroit in the rear.
The price of E Lockers can vary a lot, I've seen them for $350 to $1300, generally for the front used they go for about $450, Rears are usually a little cheaper.
My personal opinion is that the Toyota Mini Truck Diff is what the Rover needed in the first place, I've done my Rant on this over and over so it's moot to start another argument. Leave it that In the rear (unless it's a Series) I will never leave a Rover diff in a Rover that I intend to off road (that means lower gears) regardless of tire size. In the front I may leave the Rover diff, the available HD components are usually strong enough for most moderate wheeling applications and even some crazy stuff if the driver has Skilz.
I will trust this set up to 35's with moderate driving and figure it's a pretty balanced arrangment as far as strength goes.
The "big" truck has a 35 spline Salisbury and a Toy E Locker up front (with factory type voltages at the actuator) 4.11 gears it's on 35's,37's next with a gear change to at least 4.56's. I've never worried about stupid breakage on this car and the last damage was from me being stupid.
My 110's plan is Toy front and 35 spline Salisbury rear on 4.88's. with a 1:1 T case. Probably with ARB in the front, because I got a reasonable price on a new front third (open) and a Detroit in the rear.
The price of E Lockers can vary a lot, I've seen them for $350 to $1300, generally for the front used they go for about $450, Rears are usually a little cheaper.
My personal opinion is that the Toyota Mini Truck Diff is what the Rover needed in the first place, I've done my Rant on this over and over so it's moot to start another argument. Leave it that In the rear (unless it's a Series) I will never leave a Rover diff in a Rover that I intend to off road (that means lower gears) regardless of tire size. In the front I may leave the Rover diff, the available HD components are usually strong enough for most moderate wheeling applications and even some crazy stuff if the driver has Skilz.
Keith I see that your kit requires removal of the stub axle seal. Does that mean that the front longfields must be grease packed instead of using the oil bath and the rear axle bearings are now oil lubed instead of greased? If I'm understanding this correctly are there any issues with this setup on a daily driver?
Tim Lund did an article on the breather lines. I am tying to find it..
I believe thats what Thom is reffering to in general.
I believe thats what Thom is reffering to in general.