Toyota third member in a D1

MNSUROVER

Active member
Apr 28, 2004
38
0
Viroqua, WI
I am currently in the research stage of upgrading to heavier axles. I while back I seen a reference to toyota third members being used in a DI. Does anybody know what has to be done to make this swap, other than just boring the spindles for the larger shafts. I can get the third members cheap, and have a machine shop I can use.
 
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D Chapman

Guest
I don't know the details of the toy 3rd member swap. But, with all the hassel of swapping the 3rds, you can get the CV unlimited kit which uses the toy birfield or "Longfield"(I think). Assuming you are going to upgrade the center section anyways, just stick in an ARB. You keep the high pinion 3rd member, Longfields are cheaper and stronger than a Rover CV, and you are still better off vs. a stock front end. The down side to this is the CV Unlimited axles. They are a quality made product by using the 300m materal and their heat treating process, but if they ever did go belly-up or stopped making the Rover axles, you would be SOL or have to come up with some $$$.

Get in touch with Drew who hangs out over at Rovertym sometimes. He did the toyota/rover hybrid and broke it soon after. What ever the reason was, he did not try and fix it. Must of not been worth it.

I would just go GBR or Rovertracks, if it were me, but don't let someone else tell you how to build YOUR truck.
 

GroupW

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
74
0
Colorado
I read a pretty recent thread on this on Difflock, but I can't find it now. My understanding is that its not an exact match, but required mods to are very simple.
 
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DiscoDino

Guest
After 2 years of research...

Well,

Been doing the research for the past 2 years and this is what I have found:

1. It is quite easy to do, and the set-up should be enought for a healthy Rover drivetrain (engine) to sustain with 37" tires. The issue is that you have to collect some parts that must be sourced from different suppliers/countries...even continents ;)

2. You can run the Toyota R&P that is a hypoid design, that, by design are stronger than the Rover design, despite the exact same 8" size.

3. You need to bore out the front bearing/spindle and the rear if you want to run the 1.31" axles.

4. Speaking of which, the Dana 60 (non-HD) comes with the same sized axles you will with this set-up (1.31" x 30 splines).

5. All sort of lockers, LSDs, Spools are available

6. You can use the Longfielded CVs (www.longfieldaxles.com) for 125-145$ each that are currently surviving 35-39" tires, depending on all the other variables.

7. Costs (so far on me in Lebanon without shipping is):
a. R&P 4.88 @ 160$ each (US)
b. Dual ARBs @ 650$ each (US)
c. Rear Axles @ 450$ pair (Aust)
d. Front Axles @ 450$ pair (Aust)
e. CVs @ 145$ each (US)
f. Front & Rear Flanges @ 60$ each (Aust)
g. Toyota 3rd member cases 2nd hand @ 100$ each (KSA)
h. Re-bored fron Spindles @ 60$ each (Aust)
i. ARB Pump @ 190$ (US)
TOTAL: 3,560 (NO SHIPPING COSTS)

Compared to any other set-uo that will NOT hold up to 35s will sum up to 4870 (1500 front CV kit, 800 4.11s, 1300 ARBs, 120 each / flange, 190 ARB pump, 600 rear axles), and, WHEN (not "if") you break something, its gonna cost you A LOT.

Since I have to import stuff ANYWAYS, and toy 3rd members are cheap around here, that is why I have decided to go for the BEST set-up possible wilst keeping the Rover axle casing for the best clearance.

All this should be in teh Truck by End July, so will make sure I'll give you some feedback.
 
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D Chapman

Guest
Seems like a waste to me. If you want to run 35's or smaller the RT or GBR set-up are fine. But, when you start talking 5k in axles, why not get Prorock to build you an axle?
 
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DiscoDino

Guest
D...

Its all realative. Note that part of teh 3.5K there is the 1.5K worth for ARB, which is a comonality between any set-up, leaving 2K to go. I highly doubt that I can build a "small sized" axle in the US and ship it done with that budget (remember, I am in Lebanon and my objective is to run 36x13.5 IROKs with the most clearance).

I HIGHLY doubt that you can get anything better buck for buck for a Rover axle outer shell. Beauty about this is that the R&P is 160$ instead of 400$, CVs are 145$ instead of much more...plus the frequency of breaking the Rover specific stuff is just mad.

I agree, for <35s, it may be better for US-based people to run the GBR stuff, but that will cost you 4.5K+ as well, so you're back to square one.

Its all relative...enstein was right :D
 

MNSUROVER

Active member
Apr 28, 2004
38
0
Viroqua, WI
Thanks for the input Discodino. Like I had said I am still in the research phase and am just checking out whats available. At this point I will most likley just do the rear with a toyota third member and then regear the front to 4.10. I have a lot of other stuff to upgrade before my truck gets to the point it will take 35's and I am not in a rush to do it all at once.
 
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DiscoDino

Guest
Peter,

A dude on Pirate4x4 did that...Might be a GREAT way in the US seeing that 9"ers are cheap by the penny...Custom axles are NOT hard to do.

for us in the Middle East, we need to use stuff that are off the shelf, and cheap in our part of the world, or globally.
 
K

Kyle

Guest
Ford 9 is an easy swap.... And it keeps it in the family... Still got CV issues though
 

p m

Administrator
Apr 19, 2004
14,664
236
55
La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
CV issues

Kyle,
I may be ignorant here - how much of a PITA would it be to marry front D44 or D60 outers to a 9" centersection? They have regular u-joints and some monster brake rotors.
You'd have to have some very custom axles cut, but... they'll hold up to some abuse.
 
K

Kyle

Guest
Pretty simple to mate whatever knuckle to what ever rear you want. The shafts are the part that gets difficult and like Rupp said , its kind of a waste. The 9" center with the rover outers is a sweet combo and brings the cost of your running gear down a bit. With the high pinions it will also help with vibes a little.