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DiscoOrd
Guest
My Traction Control, ABS, and HDC lights came on at the same time and stay illuminated. The car seems to drive fine though. Any thoughts and detailed would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Disco Mike
Guest
Daniel,
You have thrown a code, could be a bad sensor, one knocked out of adjustment, dirt it is hard to say. The only thing you can do is go have a mechanic pull the codes and hope for the best.
Mike
You have thrown a code, could be a bad sensor, one knocked out of adjustment, dirt it is hard to say. The only thing you can do is go have a mechanic pull the codes and hope for the best.
Mike
You have pulled an ABS sensor out or broken the wiring. Were you going off road when this happened?
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s m
Guest
[hijack]
Sorry to hijack Daniel
How does one "clean" the sensors? It is as simple as pulling it out and using emory cloth/steel wool and clean off the sensor, or is there more to it?
Thanks,
Spencer
[/hijack]
Sorry to hijack Daniel
How does one "clean" the sensors? It is as simple as pulling it out and using emory cloth/steel wool and clean off the sensor, or is there more to it?
Thanks,
Spencer
[/hijack]
Have you had any brake work done recently?
I was plauged with this for a long time. Dealer replaced the speed sensor, wheel hub and the SLABS ECU (think I got that right), finally replaced the front pads and rotors, fixed it right up.
I'd had the pads and rotors done several months before my problem started. No real way to know if I had a faulty brake job to start with but the swap solved it.
I was plauged with this for a long time. Dealer replaced the speed sensor, wheel hub and the SLABS ECU (think I got that right), finally replaced the front pads and rotors, fixed it right up.
I'd had the pads and rotors done several months before my problem started. No real way to know if I had a faulty brake job to start with but the swap solved it.
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Steve83
Guest
sm
You don't need emory cloth - you're not trying to make any contact. You're removing any ferrous particles that may be interfering with the magnetic field generated by the sensor, so that it can detect the passing teeth of the hub ring. Just pull the sensor out & wipe off the tip.
You don't need emory cloth - you're not trying to make any contact. You're removing any ferrous particles that may be interfering with the magnetic field generated by the sensor, so that it can detect the passing teeth of the hub ring. Just pull the sensor out & wipe off the tip.
I have the same exact problem but it happens sparingly. My mechanic said it may be a bad ABS sensor, but alas, it has never thrown a code when I was there. Usually if I shut down and restart it goes away and doesn't come back for a while. Sorry I couldn't help, but I guess it's a common problem.
DiscoOrd said:
What yr disco do you have? There was an ABS computer recall a year or two ago which fixed this problem.
-Tommy
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BARMPA
Guest
Hi Guys,
I'm a newbie on site. I had this problem on my recently purchased 99DII. I had it back at the dealer several times when they claimed they had fixed it but to no avail. Turns out it was the ABS Modulator. Given the price of these things it's no wander they tried to get rid of me!! Hope this helps.
I'm a newbie on site. I had this problem on my recently purchased 99DII. I had it back at the dealer several times when they claimed they had fixed it but to no avail. Turns out it was the ABS Modulator. Given the price of these things it's no wander they tried to get rid of me!! Hope this helps.
Hello all,
I have been down this highway myself. If you are throwing codes, go and have them cleared. When the lights go off again, go back and get a PRINT OUT of the most recent code. This will tell you what is the exact problem. Unfortunately, I have recently found out that the ABS modulator frequently develops an electric switch fault that will require replacing the ABS modulator (approx. $1700 for the part alone). I just had it replaced my self. Did I mention that extended warranties are a good thing?
I have been down this highway myself. If you are throwing codes, go and have them cleared. When the lights go off again, go back and get a PRINT OUT of the most recent code. This will tell you what is the exact problem. Unfortunately, I have recently found out that the ABS modulator frequently develops an electric switch fault that will require replacing the ABS modulator (approx. $1700 for the part alone). I just had it replaced my self. Did I mention that extended warranties are a good thing?
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DiscoOrd
Guest
I have a 2001 Disco and I recently replaced the brakes and rotors myself. There wasn't any off roading done, but while I did the brake job, I was careful not to put any tension on the lines. Should I have replaced the ABS sensors when the pads and rotors were replaced?
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s m
Guest
Daniel,
No, you do not need to replace the sensors when you change the brakes/discs, unless one needed to be changed. The sensors come with the entire hub assembly and run about $4-500 a piece, therefore you do not want to have to change them. In the past, someone posted that LR now sells just the sensor w/out the hub assembly and included the part number, but I have yet to find that post. I believe the cost was around $70-100.
Is there any way to distinguish which sensor is causing the 'christmas tree' of lights on the dash w/out going to the dealer?
No, you do not need to replace the sensors when you change the brakes/discs, unless one needed to be changed. The sensors come with the entire hub assembly and run about $4-500 a piece, therefore you do not want to have to change them. In the past, someone posted that LR now sells just the sensor w/out the hub assembly and included the part number, but I have yet to find that post. I believe the cost was around $70-100.
Is there any way to distinguish which sensor is causing the 'christmas tree' of lights on the dash w/out going to the dealer?
The only way to tell which sensor is bad is with the test book (i.e. dealer). Did I mention extended warranties?
M
muddydisco2
Guest
I had the same three lights that were coming on and going off constantly till I finally had the time to take it to the dealer....turned out that it was due to a faulty ABS sensor that I promptly replaced myself...and saved a bunch of money by doing it...
Abercrombie
Abercrombie
land rover international june has a small article that explains how to tell which sensor is bad. you lift the wheels up and disconect the sensor, you attach your multimeter to the wires leading into the sensor and spin the wheel, if you get a reading the sensor is fine, then you move on.
i have not tried this yet, im not sure i want to know how much it will be...... my new arb and warn make up for any loss of traction.
mark
i have not tried this yet, im not sure i want to know how much it will be...... my new arb and warn make up for any loss of traction.
mark
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syoung
Guest
Just to throw another variable in- a bad brake switch will cause the same malfunction indicators. So many brake switches failed, they have been redesigned. The new version is easily told from the old one in that the housing is gray instead of black.
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Steve83
Guest
I can't count how many gray brake switches I've replaced... Some, moments after taking them out of the box & installing them.
I have several used D2 hubs & sensors, and maybe a few D1 sensors.
I have several used D2 hubs & sensors, and maybe a few D1 sensors.
I have replaced three of my four sensors, the first was the whole hub assembley as this was prior to them selling just the sensors. The part number foe a DII are: front, TAR100060 rear, TAR100070. Hope this helps.
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bshinn
Guest
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syoung
Guest
>Can the brake light switch fail & lights still work?<
I've actually seen that before on a Freelander- which has the EXACT same brake switch. Often the switches get intermittant and often the lights get stuck on or off, but the intermittant problem can be enough to trip the malfunction indicators. It's a $17 switch ($30 is full retail) and everyone should keep a spare unless you have the new redesigned one.
I've actually seen that before on a Freelander- which has the EXACT same brake switch. Often the switches get intermittant and often the lights get stuck on or off, but the intermittant problem can be enough to trip the malfunction indicators. It's a $17 switch ($30 is full retail) and everyone should keep a spare unless you have the new redesigned one.