I have 152,000 on my 97 D1 (mostly hwy miles) and have owned the truck since 48,000 miles. When I enquired about getting a transmission fluid filter change the guy at the shop said he would leave it alone if the ****** isnt acting up, and that a filter change could do more harm than good on a truck with that many miles. Any thoughts? Should i at least change the fluid?
Transmission fluid filter change--Don't do it?
- Thread starter kekule
- Start date
Hmm..Sounds like someone might be confusing the filter change with a ****** flush. If you have never changed the ****** filter then yes I would say change it ..Flush is a different story especially if you are having issues i.e. its slipping. There are several kits that are available from different vendors.
D
Disco Mike
Guest
Change the filter, check for material in the pan and replace the fluid. With that sort of mileage I would look at more frequent fluid changes to keep that ****** happy.
Mike J.
Mike J.
S
syoung
Guest
there is some truth to what the guy told you. in some circumstances a neglected trans can operate ok with the burnt gunk fluid, then promptly die a horrible death if given fresh fluid. I have personally seen it on a chrysler 727, but don't know if the ZF stuff is the same way.
There are several good mechanics around that I know would have given the same warning.
There are several good mechanics around that I know would have given the same warning.
J
JeffreyDV
Guest
I would change only the fluid. You may wind up doing more harm than good. Does the trans work ok as it is?
Jeff
Jeff
D
Disco Mike
Guest
Those surges you are speaking of are most likely from valves sticking the the valve body, don't let it continue. Cahnge the fluid and filter yesterday and then change the fluid again in a couple thousand miles without a filter change, this should help free up the sticky valve without being too harsh on the ******.
Mike J.
Mike J.
P
Peter-man99
Guest
Doing the filter on a D1 is a PITA. You have to take down the cross-member and then the exhaust "Y" pipe. If you have access to a lift use it. The right tools also (air compressor & impact wrench) help a ton and can save you a lot of headache. Start soaking all the nuts on the cross-member with some PB blaster or similar product a couple of days before hand. The job done at a shop was quoted to me at $290, with parts only costing about $50 bucks (not including new ATF). So if parts are only $50 bucks that means a shop (a british car shop experienced with Land Rovers) estimates that it will take 2.66667 hours at $90/hour to do the job with all the right tools and experience.
Just so you know what I have learned, good luck if you decide to do it.
Just so you know what I have learned, good luck if you decide to do it.
Peter is totally right. It is a pain having to remove everything. you definitely need a lift unless you like to suffer. Change the filter and you will be good for another 150,000 miles or you may never have to do it again. You will have to change the ****** fluid regularly but not the filter. A ****** change is only a partial fluid change which is good. Keep in mind that eventhough you drain all the ****** fluid, you still have some left in the system and filter which makes it a partial change only. Dealers charge a lot because it is a lot of work just to access the filter.
Good Luck,
Ed
Good Luck,
Ed
After re-reading the info posted and also reconsidering how finicky the ZF can be...I would change just the fluid and leave the filter. Hate to see you drop another $2K for a new ******...and if all is well other than the slight serge(s) from time to time. Whatever you decide good luck.
Edward yes it is a pain..dropping the Y-Pipe assy to service the trans is a real chore. The word ****** is not allowed on this BBS per the Admins.
Edward yes it is a pain..dropping the Y-Pipe assy to service the trans is a real chore. The word ****** is not allowed on this BBS per the Admins.
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What we learned...
Okay:
It's NOT a good idea to change the T-filter if the T is not acting up.
T-flushing is right out and most likely useless.
Changing the T-filter is a bitch, even with the right tools.
The Admin staff have a thing about the word "******", but not fuck.
And RoverChic went and got herself an HK logo.
That about cover it?
Okay:
It's NOT a good idea to change the T-filter if the T is not acting up.
T-flushing is right out and most likely useless.
Changing the T-filter is a bitch, even with the right tools.
The Admin staff have a thing about the word "******", but not fuck.
And RoverChic went and got herself an HK logo.
That about cover it?
K
Kyle
Guest
If the trans is on its way out that fluid will smell burnt and be brown in color. What happens at that point is the smell and the coilor come from clutch material that has now mixed with the fluid . Once you drain that clutch material out with the fluid you basically remove all the friction from it , no friction , no go.. I have seen it many many times ... Its not as drastic as its being made out to be. When I would do a pan drop I would catch the fluid every time. If the pan was full of clutch and everything was looking fried I would simply put that old fluid right back in if the car owner didnt want to possibly rebuild . No fuss , no muss....
D
Disco Mike
Guest
Kekule,
You have 150,000 miles on the truck, no idea of it's history, a valve hanging up already and you're asking what to do.
First of all, the changing of the filter is not what is hard on an old ******, it is the new fluid. All the filter is going to do is to pick up junk out of the oil, which is good. I am a big believer in the ****** flush, especially from B&G, but you have way too many miles on your truck to start doing that now, it will kill you.
Bottom line, you own the truck, just use some common sence, do at least a fluid change, at best a fluid and filter change and see how it goes. What ever you do at this time is a little bit of a roll of the dice, and you have to do it, if for no other reason then the sticky valve body.
It is good that you are asking for info, but don't let everybody confuse you and cause you to wait or worse yet do nothing. At some point, in your case, sooner then later, your ****** is going to take a s--- because of the high mileage so try whatever you can to stretch it out for as long as you can.
Good luck,
Mike J.
You have 150,000 miles on the truck, no idea of it's history, a valve hanging up already and you're asking what to do.
First of all, the changing of the filter is not what is hard on an old ******, it is the new fluid. All the filter is going to do is to pick up junk out of the oil, which is good. I am a big believer in the ****** flush, especially from B&G, but you have way too many miles on your truck to start doing that now, it will kill you.
Bottom line, you own the truck, just use some common sence, do at least a fluid change, at best a fluid and filter change and see how it goes. What ever you do at this time is a little bit of a roll of the dice, and you have to do it, if for no other reason then the sticky valve body.
It is good that you are asking for info, but don't let everybody confuse you and cause you to wait or worse yet do nothing. At some point, in your case, sooner then later, your ****** is going to take a s--- because of the high mileage so try whatever you can to stretch it out for as long as you can.
Good luck,
Mike J.
If you're changing the fluid, you might as well change the filter as well. I wouldn't listen to the "change the filter only/change the fluid only" talk.
What Steve Young is saying is correct. I'm not a trans expert by all means, but it has something to do with the burnt fluid and the seals. The detergents in the new ATF can wear out the seals if they have already started to go. The best advice would be to not wait until 100,000 miles to do it. Do it every 30,000 or so.
What Steve Young is saying is correct. I'm not a trans expert by all means, but it has something to do with the burnt fluid and the seals. The detergents in the new ATF can wear out the seals if they have already started to go. The best advice would be to not wait until 100,000 miles to do it. Do it every 30,000 or so.
My God, I have never listened to so much conflicting advice. Here is what you should do:
NOTHING! DO NOT CHANGE ANYTHING!
Read what Kyle wrote. He knows his stuff. You change that fluid and your trans will probably be toast in less than 1000 miles. Maybe less than ten.
You do not change out fluid in transmissions that have not had a change in a long time. Especially if the fluid is not bright red on inspection. You see brouwn -leave it in.
NOTHING! DO NOT CHANGE ANYTHING!
Read what Kyle wrote. He knows his stuff. You change that fluid and your trans will probably be toast in less than 1000 miles. Maybe less than ten.
You do not change out fluid in transmissions that have not had a change in a long time. Especially if the fluid is not bright red on inspection. You see brouwn -leave it in.
Kyle, I love you man for all you do but, I'm going to disagree with you on this one.
Draining the fluid will only bring out 3 quarts or so out of 10. I'd do that in a heart beat. Regular non synthetic.
I change the fluid every 15k and stick with the 30k filter replacement, even though it tends to trigger a temporary case of sticky valve body for a couple of days afterwards.
Draining the fluid will only bring out 3 quarts or so out of 10. I'd do that in a heart beat. Regular non synthetic.
I change the fluid every 15k and stick with the 30k filter replacement, even though it tends to trigger a temporary case of sticky valve body for a couple of days afterwards.