Transmission Line replacement

[lrover94]

Hi all,
I will be changing my transmission line over the weekend and I am asking for some pointers. The line I am replacing is the lower left hand line that runs from the transmission to the radiator. Any suggestions would be met with much appreciation. :rofl:

 

[Plain2000DII]

Even though I have a 2000 disco, i'll be looking for pointers as well, since yesterday a "leaky" line took a crap in the mall parking lot......

 

[DarylJ]

Even though I have a 2000 disco, i'll be looking for pointers as well, since yesterday a "leaky" line took a crap in the mall parking lot......

If you need to replace the right hand side line, lots of luck. It threads up high on the transmission and it's damn near impossible without a body lift or dropping the motor down by removing the motor mounts. In fact, I needed more space so I actually pulled a crossmember so drop everything down lower (the exhaust was interfering). It's one thing to get it out (not much fun because of very little space, but possible a 1/4 turn at a time) but getting the new one lined up and getting the threads started was a multi-hour ordeal.

It's a miserable job that would probably have been 10x easier with a lift. Trying to get the right angles while laying under the truck was one of the worst "easy jobs" I've done on a Rover.

The left hand side one is a 10 minute job.

Never had the pleasure of changing either on a D1 so this won't be much help to the OP.

 

[lrover94]

If you need to replace the right hand side line, lots of luck. It threads up high on the transmission and it's damn near impossible without a body lift or dropping the motor down by removing the motor mounts. In fact, I needed more space so I actually pulled a crossmember so drop everything down lower (the exhaust was interfering). It's one thing to get it out (not much fun because of very little space, but possible a 1/4 turn at a time) but getting the new one lined up and getting the threads started was a multi-hour ordeal.

It's a miserable job that would probably have been 10x easier with a lift. Trying to get the right angles while laying under the truck was one of the worst "easy jobs" I've done on a Rover.

The left hand side one is a 10 minute job.

Never had the pleasure of changing either on a D1 so this won't be much help to the OP.

I am not so sure if it is the left or right, but based on my luck it will be the hardest of the bunch! It connects to the lower left hand side of the radiator if that is any indication of which one it is....:ack: :ack: :ack: :ack:

 

[DarylJ]

I am not so sure if it is the left or right, but based on my luck it will be the hardest of the bunch! It connects to the lower left hand side of the radiator if that is any indication of which one it is....:ack: :ack: :ack: :ack:

If you mean left as in from the perspective of the driver and it's similar to the D2 setup, that is the 10 minutes swap. Of course, no quick connects on the D1 at the radiator. Which is probably a good thing. The whole reason I was replacing the line on the D2 was because the quick connect was frozen so I had to cut it off to pull the radiator. Or at least I thought that was going to be the easiest course of action at the time.

 

[lrover94]

Ok I started the job as soon as I could I got home for work. That was 17:40. I just got out of the shower after an 45 minute full body de-greasing. As i feared it was the line that is attached to the upper side of the tranny case. Here are the steps I have managed to fumble through;

1. I was able to get the fitting loose but, the fitting was much easier to break free than the actual hose fitting
A. Lesson here, use the 24mm on the hose nut and a 22mm on the fitting. The trick here is to secure the 22mm. The average sized almost ready for AARP 52 yo male's hands are so large you will never get both into the little gap between the tranny and the trans tunnel. I slipped the wrench on the fitting and used some 550 cord to secure box end to the crossmember.

2. After about 30 minutes of cussing Land Rovers everywhere I managed to get the old one off.
A. Lesson learned take a picture of the trucks underbelly, you will see why here in a few minutes.

3. Several attempts to place the new line was met with to date complete failure....Honestly, I will never talk bad about a dealership again. They earn the flat rate!


As far as the pictures of the underbelly...It will help in jogging the memory. I can't really remember how it was plumbed.

So, For tonight I give up. Perhaps when I get home from work tomorrow I will have a better time.

If you are following this so far I suggest you go ahead and plan on spending a couple of hours of washing the underbelly...It would help you get a grip on the line while I am attempting to wrestle the new line into place. have a few cans of brake cleaner around so you can spray off all the places you missed with the hose...

As with all things any input from you all would be appreciated..

 

[DarylJ]

Good, timing, I just happen to be in the shop with the front left wheel off.

From the front, point backwards to the driver's side:

And form under the trans (that top line is the one you are after):

This is on my '98. How that helps. Let me know if you need other areas/shots.

 

[lrover94]

I having an issue figuring out how the line snakes back over the frame, exhaust and caddy-verter. I actually thought about taking the new line to NAPA and have them make me a soft line it would be so much easier to install if the entire line was flexible.


BUT I DO SO THANK YOU FOR THE HELP!

 

[DarylJ]

The thing in the bottom of the second pic is the cat.

It never crosses the frame outside frame rail. It goes under the front cross member entirely in hard line from the radiator as in the first pic.

I know it sucks trying to figure out what's what in pics like that......a lift would be helpful for this.

 

[lrover94]

Thanks so much for the help. I think what I can do is lift the truck up Jack Stand the frame drop the suspension back down and that may give me some wiggle room.

 

[lrover94]

Job done! whew now the lessons from the reassembly....

1. be sure you work space is clean and that you didn't leave any o rings laying around, saves any panic after you get everything back together.
2. no alcohol, I didn't partake during the evolution and for that I am happy.
3. next time pay someone else to do it!
4. the only way to get the line, pipe, hose, torture device or whatever you want to call it,routed correctly would be to drop the exhaust system so you can feed the line. As we know these drive units are assembled then dropped into the chassis they are not made to be worked on. I will post pics of my finished work, no it is not routed the way it is suppose to run, but honestly at that point I was sick of wrestling with it.
5 Be sure to clean under the underbelly really really well it pays off in the handling the new line and for cleaning you bod after the job is complete.


Conclusion....no it isn't the hardest thing i had to do but it sucked all the same.

 

[crown14]

I don't remember it being that hard at all with a couple of "special" wrenches, one stubby and another with a custom angle to it.

Then again I read about guys on here who drop the exhaust to pull a starter or crank position sensor too, so...

You should be very careful in routing the line in a fashion other than factory. It is heat and vibration that most commonly cause failures in these type lines, and if you make to great a change in either you may end up with a nice fireball on the side of the interstate.

 

[lrover94]

the hard part was not so much coupling the end pieces of the line but getting it ran around all the pieces of the of metal in between. If it ever has to be replaced again I will be letting a shop do it.

The only real difference in my app is on which side of the exhaust pipe the line runs by. I went outboard instead of inboard. There is about the same amount of clearance between the new line and the other tran line. I agree tho vibration is the real concern

I do agree the best way would have been the OEM path