Useless, Or Not???

BenDronsick

Well-known member
Aug 31, 2010
151
0
DELAPLANE, VA
www.bmdaia.com
2004 W/111K miles and it runs flawlessly. Same power and mpg since new. Always maintained.

However oil pressure light flickers and stays on when hot and under throttle (never at idle at first).

Endless oil pressure light chase threads here seem to never resolve themselves until main bearings or rocker work is done.

HAS ANYONE EVER INCREASED OIL PRESSURE in a non-TSB VIN 2004 by replacing front cover? I have so far:

1. Replaced sender
2. Cleaned pan/pickup
3. Switched to 20/50 synthetic & Mobil-1 filter.

Light still flickers under throttle (not at idle).

No sludge in bottom end, oil drains right back to pan after shutdown (so top end isn't clogged).

I see countless threads where the front cover is the next step, but I have not seen anyone thus far who has replaced the front cover and the light went out.

Should I replace the cover or is that a waste of time. If the gears are cracked or the plate worn out, would that cause loss of pressure when hot under throttle?

Thanks.
 

BenDronsick

Well-known member
Aug 31, 2010
151
0
DELAPLANE, VA
www.bmdaia.com
Pressure is supposedly 20 at idle. Light begins to flicker more and more steadily as it gets hotter; and under throttle. Does not come on at startup or when cold.

This seems to indicate excessive bearing or rocker shaft wear, however it's running so well and only 111K miles. And I should add ZERO noise coming from top end. Not even a faint tick at cold idle. Mysteriously silent. When the light eventually does come on hot at speed I can't hear anything either.

Can the oil pump be going bad and only drop pressure when hot? Or if the pump is going will it always trigger the light at startup/idle?

I am at a loss how to proceed because switching the front cover is a $1K job (or $500 if I do it myself).

If these symptoms do not indicate oil pump then I could spend that $1K chasing this light elsewhere (rockers, main bearings, etc.)

Any help GREATLY appreciated.
 
Last edited:

turbodave

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2008
325
3
KY
1) put a gauge on it to verify the pressure

2) Pull out the relief valve and check it doesn't have burrs or debris around it that could be allowing it to not seat, and hence lose a little bit of pressure at low pumping volumes

3) Pull the front cover and investigate the pump and relief valve in greater detail. The pump gears are easilly available, the pump housing can be carefully dressed to remove burrs, and the cover plate can be skimmed on a surface grinder by any machine shop for less than $50...


Do the job yourself is my suggestion - that way you save $500 on parts alone, and get satisfaction of fixing it ;-)