Valley pan gasket replace.
- Thread starter mjbrox
- Start date
Upper intake manifold gasket, throttle body heater kit if it seeps at all, valve cover gaskets, plug wires while the manifold is off. (assuming a D2)
You will need one valve cover gasket and bolts, the intake gasket, and both lip seals. I would also recommend getting both PCV hoses. You need Right Stuff for the lip seal corners and Hylomar for the plenum. Its also a good time to replace the short hose from the heater pipe to the intake.
I did the same thing last summer... Broke the tstat bolt. I bought a proline valley pan gasket from rovers north and used hylomar blue on everything else. My valve covers had rubber gaskets on them already, just cleaned and reused the one I removed. Overall, very simple job. Took me an afternoon with many beer breaks. No leaks 12k miles later. I also replaced ALL of the small rubber coolant hoses.
Edit: actually, I think I bought everything from rovahfarm
Edit: actually, I think I bought everything from rovahfarm
If your truck is anything like mine, I put the likelihood at somewhere between 98% and 100%. Seal both ends of the VPG thoroughly otherwise you may end up with a coolant leak. Good luck.
Did you already take the fuel rail off? You don't need to remove it to take off the intake. No big deal if you did, just extra steps. It doesn't take much Right Stuff. Just put some on the corners where the block meets the head. You are just sealing the points that the lip seals won't seal perfectly. It takes probably about the size of a marble of Right Stuff to seal the corners.
Make sure you get the right size O rings. They need to seat snugly on both ends of the injectors. If they are loose at all - or if they get pinched and cut when you reinstall the injectors - you will end up with fuel pissing all over the ground when you turn the key. Ask me how I know.
Next time, call PT. He sent me the correct size O rings for my injectors for much, much less than $35. About $35 less.
project update.
The fucking tstat bolt is completely stuck. I got a used intake and will install this weekend, it is from a P30 4.0L so hopefull it fits. After doing some searches I have questions.
- Should I use locktight on the intake bolts? What color?
- I left the valve covers on. If I have a helper, can I leave them or do they need to come off.
- I dont have "right stuff" I have have black RTV rated for 500 deg, that should be fine?????
- I am very nervous about the whole thing, what else should I pay attention to
The fucking tstat bolt is completely stuck. I got a used intake and will install this weekend, it is from a P30 4.0L so hopefull it fits. After doing some searches I have questions.
- Should I use locktight on the intake bolts? What color?
- I left the valve covers on. If I have a helper, can I leave them or do they need to come off.
- I dont have "right stuff" I have have black RTV rated for 500 deg, that should be fine?????
- I am very nervous about the whole thing, what else should I pay attention to
This seems like a lot of extra work for a broken bolt. I broke one last year. I opted to just drill out the old bolt and re-tap the hole. It's been holding leak free for over a year now.
Granted it's a PITA to drill in that location and you take a chance of screwing it up and having to replace it. But it might be worth a try before pulling the intake. Yes, I know it's too late for the OP but this might help someone else that comes across this in the future...
Granted it's a PITA to drill in that location and you take a chance of screwing it up and having to replace it. But it might be worth a try before pulling the intake. Yes, I know it's too late for the OP but this might help someone else that comes across this in the future...