Vibration and occasional squeak: U joints??
- Thread starter DWB
- Start date
ah, 98's don't have them. I thought you were dealing with a series 2 driveshaft. I wouldn't take a series 1 front shaft to a shop. Even with the wrong tools it doesn't take very long to swap out the u-joints. I've done it with a hammer and sockets on the side of a trail before.
And I haven't marked any of mine when removing them and no additional vibrations showed up.
And I haven't marked any of mine when removing them and no additional vibrations showed up.
robertf said:
I kinda thought there was no centering ball, but as I said I am not versed.
Just to be safe, if I am going to mark it, it sounds like 3 spots spaced out on either side of the joint will work?
I dont have a ton of tools so hammer and sockets are going to have to do.
Any other last tid bits of advise?
PS- Thanks a ton
If you have the option, use a bench vise or c-clamp instead of the hammer. I did the above so I could drive home.
Some people think it makes a difference in orienting the zerk fitting so that its under compression instead of tension when in drive.
Some people think it makes a difference in orienting the zerk fitting so that its under compression instead of tension when in drive.
Ok,
I had a chance to put the front on some jack stands and it does feel like there is play in the joints. I can push on the DS and get a click out of the DS.
While I had the vehicle up I tried to move the wheels and noticed I have some play in the passenger side wheel. After I looked at it further I noticed that the rotor moves up and down when I do the same to the wheel.
I had a chance to put the front on some jack stands and it does feel like there is play in the joints. I can push on the DS and get a click out of the DS.
While I had the vehicle up I tried to move the wheels and noticed I have some play in the passenger side wheel. After I looked at it further I noticed that the rotor moves up and down when I do the same to the wheel.
yes, everything I saw was to mark the position of not only the joins but also the mounting plates and point on the diff and tcase.
I also alternated direction of where the zerk is located in order to keep the shaft balanced.
I also alternated direction of where the zerk is located in order to keep the shaft balanced.
Read this thread:
http://discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=74988
There is some valuable advice that relates to your situation. Having a bench vise made the job a lot easier than it would have been without it. If you don't have one, ask friends or buy one off craigslist for cheap. Even a C-clamp will be easier than a hammer. Good luck.
http://discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=74988
There is some valuable advice that relates to your situation. Having a bench vise made the job a lot easier than it would have been without it. If you don't have one, ask friends or buy one off craigslist for cheap. Even a C-clamp will be easier than a hammer. Good luck.
Tugela said:
i nearly twisted a c clamp in half trying to get a joint out. mine ended up needing one of the bearing press c clamps which is available for rent at auto stores.
when you take the shaft off, soak all the caps the day before.
We just went through a similar situation but the motor mounts were bad. I would recommend to check the motor mounts and transmission mounts. The catalytic converter is very close to the frame and will rub if the mounts are bad.
While in drive, apply the brake and give gas and if the mounts are bad you will hear the catalytic converter rubbing on the frame and a vibration.
2003 Discovery 121,000 miles with the high miles service completed!
While in drive, apply the brake and give gas and if the mounts are bad you will hear the catalytic converter rubbing on the frame and a vibration.
2003 Discovery 121,000 miles with the high miles service completed!
Tugela said:
Tugela,
I actually subscribed to your thread and have used it to diagnose and begin putting the shopping list together.
This all started because of a "ping" that I dont think is related. My truck has been sitting for about 3 years with about 2k on it total. I think many parts have taken a beating in their dormancy.
I am going to start by dropping the DS and locking the diff. I think no matter what I will change the u-joints.
The passenger side wheel has some play in it so I am going to have to diagnose that as well. I hope its not a bearing......
Thanks for the info
DWB said:
Replace/have rebuilt.
It was a surprise to me as well. when my first ujoints were going bad I went under the truck and tried to figure everything out myself...
I thought to myself: "there is just a tiny bit of play, but nothing I think is THAT bad."
I replaced the driveshaft and poof, the vibration was gone. I knew what to look for when my rear driveshaft went out 6 months later. If there is ANY play at all, the ujoints need to be replaced.
Seriously, you've got a bad u-joint if there is play in it.
If the play is noticeable when you grab the top and the bottom of the wheel and shake back and forth, you hope that it is a bearing, because it will take you all of 20 minutes to fix that.TT Disco said:
I guess you missed this post, second paragraph.p m said:
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showpost.php?p=74152&postcount=2
For anyone new to u-joint issues, this information should help.
http://landroverforums.com/forum/general-tech-help-8/propshaft-rebuild-29302/#post164811
Last edited:
antichrist said:I guess you missed this post, second paragraph.
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showpost.php?p=74152&postcount=2
For anyone new to this, this information should help.
http://landroverforums.com/forum/general-tech-help-8/propshaft-rebuild-29302/#post164811
Thanks Man.
I did read that post. The biggest thing was that I didn't want to drop to DS unless I really had to. After all this investigation I cant see how they are good.
I reviewed my service records and realized that before I started pursuing work on the truck myself I paid the dealership to replace the entire front DS at about 1k for the job. The service was completed at 85k and I am not at 142k.
The wobble I was talking about was in the front tire from top to bottom.
The references were great, thanks!
