Violent Shaking

[AU_88]

The other day I was driving my RRC and the whole truck started to violently shake at speeds over 15ish mph, after reading some threads I guess I will replace the swivel pins. Is there anything else I should look at replacing while doing the job? Or is this really the problem.

Thanks,
Robert

 

[Jake1996D1]

Steering wheel shaking back and forth?

Could be other steering components as well.. Check panhard bushings as well. but if you've never done swivel pins it's past due.

 

[crown14]

Check your lug nuts and tires first!

Low speed violent vibrations typically indicate a problem with the rolling stock.

 

[AU_88]

It's not just the steering wheel, the entire truck starts shaking. It's to the point where I can't drive it. It just started one day, there was no progression from a little vibration to more, it went Straight from driveable to not.

 

[Lincoln Tarantino]

It's not just the steering wheel, the entire truck starts shaking. It's to the point where I can't drive it. It just started one day, there was no progression from a little vibration to more, it went Straight from driveable to not.

This is the approach I would take:
1.) Check Lugs to make sure they are all fastened (sounds silly, but youd be surprised)
2.) Inspect tires for bubbles or seperations (imo, if you have a violent low speed wobble this is probably your best bet. A simple out of balanced wheel should not cause violent shaking at 15mph)
3.) Inspect rims. You said it went from driveable to non driveable over night...any teenagers in the house take it out for a midnight romp, lol? Make sure your rims (and any other components for that matter are not damaged, broken or bent)
4.) Inspect drive shafts. In theory a worn or out of balance driveshaft can wreak havoc on a smooth ride. I've never seen violent shaking at such low speeds, but it is a rover, so anything is possible
5.) Jack up truck and see if there is any play in the wheels. Put your hands at 9 & 3 and try to shake back and forth, then again at 12 and 6. If you feel any significant movement or play, then track down the source
6.) Get your tires rotated and balanced.
7.) At this point if your truck is still shaking it is time to go through all the bushings, ball joints, swivel pins, cv axles, hubs etc. I would assume you did a visual inspection on all of these prior to scratching your head and wondering wtf is wrong with my rover......

I agree with crown, it is probable related to wheels or tires if you feel it at such low speed. Best of luck!

 

[p m]

2.) Inspect tires for bubbles or seperations (imo, if you have a violent low speed wobble this is probably your best bet. A simple out of balanced wheel should not cause violent shaking at 15mph)

x2. Tire(s) out of round is the most likely cause.
Jack up the truck one axle at a time, put a wooden block next to a wheel barely touching the tire (flat against the tread), and rotate the tire by hand.

 

[D Chapman]

Lincoln is a fucking idiot.

It's probably your panhard rod bushings, but it could be swivel pre-load. Ruling out the panhard rob bushings is easy; just have someone rock the steering wheel back-and-forth while you look for play in the bushings.

If it is bushing, don't buy the Land Rover rubber bushings. Something has went wrong there and the new bushing are not worth a shit. Get the Poly's from Lucky8 or some where like that.

Tires, lugs, etc.. should be common stuff, but should not be overlooked. Driveshafts have nothing to do with death wobble.

 

[Jake1996D1]

I agree with panhard rod - at this point I'm willing to be you can grab onto it and shake it.. The bushing likely seperated completely If it's the steering and the whole truck your front axle is just flopping around out front..

 

[AU_88]

The tires are almost brand new, less than 2,000 miles on them, and are in good shape. There was little to no wobble (negligable) when shaking the wheel at 9 & 3. The passenger side swivel had a lot of grease right next to the swivel ball so I may take it apart tomorrow and I will probably go ahead and order new panhard rod bushings because the truck is almost 20 years old and it needs to be done. If I take the swivel apart is there anything I should just replace while I am in there? Sorry for my ignorance, I have not had to do much on this truck in the last 5 years and don't drive it all that often.

EDIT: Just ordered new bushing, steering damper and bearings from lucky 8.

 

[D Chapman]

They make a swivel ball rebuild kit. It has everything you need.

 

[p m]

My D1's panhard rod bolts/nuts went loose over the last 1k mi or so - made the steering scary, but never a wobble at any speed.
Not to say it wouldn't do it, but 15mph is a wrong speed for it to happen.

 

[AU_88]

They make a swivel ball rebuild kit. It has everything you need.

I'll probably order that tomorrow.

 

[Tugela]

If it is bushing, don't buy the Land Rover rubber bushings. Something has went wrong there and the new bushing are not worth a shit.

There are some replacement parts where Discowebbers seem to have reached consensus that certain brands/models/types are the best to use for a specific application. Like Champion sparkplugs, Kingsbourne wires, and Elring head gaskets, for instance.

Other parts have diametrically opposed opinions on whether to go OEM or aftermarket. Bushings appear to be one of them. Some folks here are convinced that rubber LR bushings are the only acceptable option. Dan proposes polybush replacements. Rubber supporters say that polybushes don't flex enough, then crack, then you have to replace them again so get rubber genuine.

As a specific statement, I would like to hear more pros and cons to the bushings debate. Mine are due for replacement, but that's low on the priority list. I replaced my RRC genuine bushes with blue (soft) polybushes and they improved the ride quality over the worn-out originals, but I only kept the truck for another year afterwards so didn't find out how long they lasted.

As a general statement, I would like to see a list compiled of Consensus Replacement Parts. Or at least a table where for many parts a consensus around genuine or aftermarket is shown. From what I've read over the years here it doesn't seem like there is any pattern to which parts are worth replacing with genuine and which with aftermarket. It would be a handy resource, but also a likely point of ongoing disagreement. (In which case "consensus" is not the best description...more like supermajority opinion)

Dan, can you elaborate on why you prefer polybushes to rubber? To borrow a line from another thread, explain to me why I should buy one instead of the other.

 

[AU_88]

There are some replacement parts where Discowebbers seem to have reached consensus that certain brands/models/types are the best to use for a specific application. Like Champion sparkplugs, Kingsbourne wires, and Elring head gaskets, for instance.

Other parts have diametrically opposed opinions on whether to go OEM or aftermarket. Bushings appear to be one of them. Some folks here are convinced that rubber LR bushings are the only acceptable option. Dan proposes polybush replacements. Rubber supporters say that polybushes don't flex enough, then crack, then you have to replace them again so get rubber genuine.

As a specific statement, I would like to hear more pros and cons to the bushings debate. Mine are due for replacement, but that's low on the priority list. I replaced my RRC genuine bushes with blue (soft) polybushes and they improved the ride quality over the worn-out originals, but I only kept the truck for another year afterwards so didn't find out how long they lasted.

As a general statement, I would like to see a list compiled of Consensus Replacement Parts. Or at least a table where for many parts a consensus around genuine or aftermarket is shown. From what I've read over the years here it doesn't seem like there is any pattern to which parts are worth replacing with genuine and which with aftermarket. It would be a handy resource, but also a likely point of ongoing disagreement. (In which case "consensus" is not the best description...more like supermajority opinion)

Dan, can you elaborate on why you prefer polybushes to rubber? To borrow a line from another thread, explain to me why I should buy one instead of the other.

I paid $31 for the polybushes, if they improve ride quality and last for 2-3 years Ill be happy. I maybe put 1500-3000k miles on my classic a year anyways.

 

[Tugela]

I paid $31 for the polybushes,

Link to source, please.

 

[eliaschristeas]

Link to source, please.

like ONE poly bush???? i just got a full red set for Zeussical the musical and i was happy to pay $200 shipped. Me likey the poly bushes.

ODD CURVE BALL -

yes to all the theories on links and wheels and so forth - buuuuuuut - recently i have seen a truck with the same violent shaking... under load.... like riding santa's knee all those years ago.

two bad cats were breaking up and causing the motor to choke....

 

[AU_88]

like ONE poly bush???? i just got a full red set for Zeussical the musical and i was happy to pay $200 shipped. Me likey the poly bushes.

ODD CURVE BALL -

yes to all the theories on links and wheels and so forth - buuuuuuut - recently i have seen a truck with the same violent shaking... under load.... like riding santa's knee all those years ago.

two bad cats were breaking up and causing the motor to choke....

http://www.lucky8llc.com/Products.aspx?ProductID=2968

That's what I ordered, it may be for one. Not sure, don't buy this stuff very often.

I replaced my y-pipe and both cats less than 5k miles ago so I hope that's not the issue.

 

[Tugela]

Link looks like $31 for two individual polybushes. Good luck with the swap. I had a beeeyatch of a time getting my old ones out and new ones in on my RRC. Finally gave up and found a shop with a 10-ton press to do it.

 

[AU_88]

I will probably have a shop do that part...

 

[crown14]

Getting them out is easy, build a fire and stick the bar in, one end at a time. The rubber burns away and then you can take a hacksaw or similar and cut a slot in the remaining shell and it falls right out.
And you won't need a press to get new poly bushings in, at least not any of the types I have installed.