Watts link bushing trouble

Nov 11, 2020
6
1
NorCal
Disco-ers,
I'm attempting to rebuild my watts link in my 2000 US Spec Disco 2 w/rear air.
The three center bushings came in and out as expected (with metal sleeves on the bushings) -- But for the love of god use a "shop press" - it makes it so much easier.

The rub is the "outer bushings" or "Track Bar bushing" -- Part number RGB100970G (not there is a RGB100970 - which I believe is a LR OG part)
https://www.roverparts.com/suspensio...gs/RGX100970G/

These bushings have a plastic sleeve instead of metal, and it seems like maybe a teflon coating.
For the life of me I can't get it in to the arm of the watts link.
I put a caliper on the OLD bushing that came out, the New bushing, and the hole in the Track Bar Arm, and it does not make sense:
Old Bushing: 43mm
New bushing: 44mm
Track Bar opening: 42mm
I called Atlantic British and they confirmed that the correct bushing is 44mm. So I have the right part!

PS - I'm using this video as a guide, but not having any luck:

what is the trick here? I've tried 'chamfering" the track bar opening (as a video suggested)
Help!
Thanks!Screenshot 2023-07-26 at 1.24.06 PM.png
 
Last edited:

kris812

Well-known member
Jun 11, 2014
270
94
Tucson AZ
I don't have a D2 or this Link, but I've done lots of bushings on many of cars and watched that video.

I would chamfer the bushings edge until it guides in like in their video. Then take it to the shop/bearing press and force it in with 30 tons. A little oil would help as well. Could try to hammer tap it in, but odds of getting sideways and stuck are high. But getting that first edge rolled over on the bushing is key I think.
 
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Nov 11, 2020
6
1
NorCal
Thanks @kris812 !

I took a Dremel and cleaned all the paint out of the inside of the arm.
I also beveled the edge of the arm.
Then I put a bevel on the bushing itself.

IMG_3883.jpeg

IMG_3884.jpeg

Then I put it in a shop press, with a flat washer on top of the bushing and ran it home.
I would not recommend this job without an actual shop press.
I tried using a ball joint press at first, also a vice, and it was not what was needed.

A proper 12 ton or 20 ton press does the job!
I also took my time to make sure the bearing with the plastic outer casing was perfectly straight in the press.

Success!

IMG_3887.jpeg
 
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