Weber Carb Identification

jsonova99

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Apr 14, 2005
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Snow Hill, MD
I have a very late 2.25 in my truck (early 80's I guess) with a Weber, I'm not sure how to identify the carburetor in order to buy a rebuild kit. It has a tag with a serial number, but no model number or anything. Not sure if there are a variety of one barrel Webers or not, my only real experience with carbs is the big Holley 4 barrel I have in my boat.
 

jsonova99

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Apr 14, 2005
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Snow Hill, MD
That might be it, I have to take a look. I know that I don't have the one that Rovers North has in their Series catalog (based on comparing the pics with mine). Thanks, for the info, I'll post up what I find. By the way, are the original Solex carbs any good? Easy to rebuild?


Actually, I think that is the one in the catalog, similar, but the shape is differnet. I can't tell, it's too damn dark in the garage right now.
 

jsonova99

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Apr 14, 2005
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Okay, my Weber is a two barrel. Did the later 2.25 engines come with 2 barrel carbs? Any idea if the intake manifold changed over the years? The carb is a mess, and I was thinking about just buying a new one Weber 34 ICH, not sure what else I may need to change out though to make it fit.
 

tripm

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May 23, 2006
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jsonova99 said:
Okay, my Weber is a two barrel. Did the later 2.25 engines come with 2 barrel carbs? Any idea if the intake manifold changed over the years? The carb is a mess, and I was thinking about just buying a new one Weber 34 ICH, not sure what else I may need to change out though to make it fit.

Send me the two barrel and the manifold and I'll send you a rebuilt 34 and a new manifold. :)

No, they were all singles. Someone likely swapped out the manifold. It's common. Just get a rebuild kit for the two barrel. The single does make the truck run pretty good, just not as fast as the two barrel.

Can you post a pic for us?
 

jsonova99

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Apr 14, 2005
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I'll post a pic up later this weekend when I pull the old one. The engine in mine is probably a later 5 bearing 2.25, atleast I know it's an 80's enigne form the VIN on it, just not sure when they went 5 bearing. The problem is that the truck has had a lot of "tinkering" done over the years, I'm actually trying to undo a lot of that and get it into a more stock form. I'll trade some performance for reliability and ease of work. The manifold is a Land Rover manifold best I can tell, so I would guess some sort of adapter was installed
 

tripm

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May 23, 2006
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<< I'll trade some performance for reliability and ease of work.>>

I think you'll find a properly tuned 2 barrel or a single will be equally reliable. The single is a really easy fit though, so if you're going to buy a new one, I'd go for that. it's just a bit less power. Put the 2 barrel on ebay and you can cut your cost.

If you're looking for reliability, you'll ultimately find that the stock stuff is fine as long as it's cleaned an properly tuned. That's with the exception of the carb - the weber is probably the way to go due to cost. If memory serves, it's less than a stock one.

If you order points/condenser, new fuel lines and filter (get a few filters since they are cheap and if the tank isn't new, it's probably got some crap in it), wires, plugs, etc., you'll go a long way to getting it running pretty well.

Another thing to check is all the wire connections. I've had grounds go bad overnight for some reason. If your truck has been 'modified', the wiring is likely a little messy. Cleaning the battery and starter connections tends to make a big difference.

Have fun.

Mark
 

jsonova99

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Snow Hill, MD
The electrics are good, all of the ignition stuff is new (I bought and installed) and checked out. The carb I have is a 32/34 DMTL which doesn't seem to be as common as others. Anybody have experience with one of these? My concern is that removing this and buying a 34 ICH may require changes to linkages, adpter plates, fuel line, etc. What seems like an inexpensive change may cost me 3 times what I'm expecting.

The problem only happens at cold startup and in fourth gear at higher speeds.
 
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Leslie

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Apr 28, 2004
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The single-barrel is suited to a stock 2.25. Throwing a 2-barrel Weber onto a 2.25 w/o other improvements isn't productive.... but if the cam is swapped out for a 2.5 cam, someone put a pierce manifold on there, and exhaust is opened up to be a bit more free-flowing, then it can make use of the 2-barrel carb. You don't happen to know if you've got a 2.5 cam in there, do you? If you don't have a pierce manifold, but the PO kept the stock manifold and exhaust, then you may very well have a stock cam, which means your 2-barrel's not being put to good use on there.

You could, take the time and get the 2-barrel to work, by changing out the rest to get it up to snuff. Or, drop back to a single-barrel... a Weber, a Rochester, etc.


For Rochester info: http://www.bayourovers.com/trick1.html
British Pacific used to have a page on on what all was needed for a 2-barrel Weber, but I can't seem to find it on their site now, I might check w/ TeriAnn, see if she still has it somewhere....


FWIW....
 

jsonova99

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Apr 14, 2005
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Snow Hill, MD
No idea if it has a 2.5L cam in it. The manifold appears to be a stock one though. I'm just going to go back to single barrel, I can't find much info on the carb I currently have.

Thanks for the help.:cool:
 

Paul Grant

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Sep 8, 2004
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CT
I think the 32/34 DTML was what came on early 90's and 110's that were fitted with the 2.5L petrol. I had a 36/32 DGV two barrel on my old SIII with a heated Pierce manifold and headers. With VERY marginal increases in power, I saw my mileage drop from roughly 16 mpg with a 34 ICH to barely 12 mpg. Definitely not worth the bother. I went back to a Zenith and while it may not be a favorite choice, it served its purpose well.