What do you recommend for doing a engine flush

[RoverHide]

03 D2 4.6 with the OE ( what I think / hope to be a stuck lifter). 158k. When I run Rotella 15/40 I don't get much of a ticking noise, change that to 5/30 and when its warm i ticks guarenteed. Before I tear into things I figured to try a flush? So what do people recommend and or have tried and had any success?? ATF? If so how much, how long, at what rpm? Off the shelf Gunk motot flush? Thanks in advance.

 

[ERover82]

5w-30 is not thick enough for these engines. In later years LR wised up and recommended up to 60w oils.

In warmer climates you can run cheap 20w-50, otherwise a Synthetic 5w-50 is ideal. Here are a few good options:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058WKOUQ/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C43BR2G/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IE2K34/

 

[RoverHide]

Thanks Eric, I was thinking of trying a 5/50 for this winter. Are you recommending to forget trying to flush anything and go with a 5/50 synthetic oil first and see what happens? I just changed the oil yesterday to 5/30 so I could still potentially drop a quart and cycle through some ATF? But if the pros here think its a bad idea?. Thanks for your insight.

 

[ERover82]

I'd definitely not do that and just run better oil. There's a thread here on seafoam. Might be worth it before an oil change.

 

[lighting]

Engine flush is to dissolve gunk build inside your engine including lifters and it contains mostly kerosene and small amount of detergents. Personally I would not use engine flush and in the event that my engine needs a flush I would use a quart of transmission fluid for 10 minutes, drain and refill with fresh oil and repeat after 500 miles, lot cheaper than a new engine. It sounds like you are not using the proper grade oil, do what it's been recommended 5W 50 for Winter and 20W 50 for Summer.

 

[MM3846]

Run a a couple 1500-2000 mile changes of Rotella T6. I have the oil analyses to prove it works.

http://discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=89032

Still running T6 (5w-40) now.

 

[RoverHide]

Changed the oil to castrol full synthetic 5/50 this morning, also used a high capacity Baldwin oil filter. Upon start up there was no tick and engine was cold, warmed up to about 140 degrees and the tick was back just as loud at standing idle through 1500rpm, I added about 1/3 qt extra and now it only ticks at standing low idle and anything above 1000 rpm and the tick is gone, all this at proper 195ish temp. I'm tempted to add a bit more oil to see if that removes it completely but I can remember my father telling me "don't ever over fill your oil". Any opinions on running the oil pan a bit over full? Like 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart? Thanks again, think I'm on the right track here.

 

[riceybean]

I did the Rotella T-6 clean out, 3 oil changes then a qt of ATF. I switched to conventional oil, high mileage 10-40 and I still have the Rover tick, although its quieter. My guess is after 156k the cam lobes are shot. A rebuild is in the future for me. I am going to do a timing chain soon, see if that helps.

 

[Rockbeard]

Dr. Marvel's Mystery Oil!! been around forever cuz it does work. but it may not be enough to help with the tick noise in the head, which is unfortunately a common deal in our discos. try a small bottle, drive it for a day or two, then change the oil to the viscosity of your choice and see what ya hear. hope it helps

 

[helievacpilot]

Dr. Marvel's Mystery Oil!!

:rofl:

 

[Rockbeard]

pilot finds that hilarious. it won't hurt anything. what's your input?

 

[MM3846]

MMO is just ATF and some alcohol

 

[RoverHide]

The Castrol 5/50 synthetic quieted down the tick compared to the 5/30 with out a doubt. Still get it at low standing idle sporaticlly which is strange, I overfilled the oil pan by 1/2 qt and that seemed to help for some reason. I am running a fuel tank of seafoam now and was thinking of trying it in the intake next, I'm sure its a wear issue noise with 158k on it but before I get drastic and start pulling things apart might as well try to clean it out with some "snake oils"???

 

[discostew]

Engine flush is to dissolve gunk build inside your engine including lifters and it contains mostly kerosene and small amount of detergents. Personally I would not use engine flush and in the event that my engine needs a flush I would use a quart of transmission fluid for 10 minutes, drain and refill with fresh oil and repeat after 500 miles, lot cheaper than a new engine. It sounds like you are not using the proper grade oil, do what it's been recommended 5W 50 for Winter and 20W 50 for Summer.

This is exactly what I do. But I'll drive it a few hundred miles like that.

 

[riceybean]

The Castrol 5/50 synthetic quieted down the tick compared to the 5/30 with out a doubt. Still get it at low standing idle sporaticlly which is strange, I overfilled the oil pan by 1/2 qt and that seemed to help for some reason. I am running a fuel tank of seafoam now and was thinking of trying it in the intake next, I'm sure its a wear issue noise with 158k on it but before I get drastic and start pulling things apart might as well try to clean it out with some "snake oils"???

Run the over sized NAPA Gold filter if don't already. #1515

 

[04 Disco]

Changed the oil to castrol full synthetic 5/50 this morning, also used a high capacity Baldwin oil filter. Upon start up there was no tick and engine was cold, warmed up to about 140 degrees and the tick was back just as loud at standing idle through 1500rpm, I added about 1/3 qt extra and now it only ticks at standing low idle and anything above 1000 rpm and the tick is gone, all this at proper 195ish temp. I'm tempted to add a bit more oil to see if that removes it completely but I can remember my father telling me "don't ever over fill your oil". Any opinions on running the oil pan a bit over full? Like 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart? Thanks again, think I'm on the right track here.

Just following up. Did over filling make your engine run smoother or was it short term?

 

[jymmiejamz]

5w-30 is not thick enough for these engines. In later years LR wised up and recommended up to 60w oils.

In warmer climates you can run cheap 20w-50, otherwise a Synthetic 5w-50 is ideal. Here are a few good options:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058WKOUQ/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C43BR2G/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IE2K34/

Where are you getting this information from? The latest thing I have seen with those motors is recommending 5w30 in cold climates. 5w50 covers all temperature ranges according to Land Rover, but that weight is very uncommon in my experience. I ran 5w30 most of the time and sometimes run 15w40 in the summer.

 

[JohnB]

Love oil threads. There should be a forum that just compiles all of them into one dreaded place.