what to watch for when buying a RRC????

[nickangus]

im looking at maybe getting a classic and I was wondering what sorts of things do I need to watch out for and what kind of common problems I my run in to??????

also if some one could tell me what price range/mileage im looking for if I want a good long lasting rover

thanx

nick

 

[p m]

well - what years and what price range are you looking for?

85-88 1/2 : 3.5l V8, LT230 (with locking center diff)
89-95: 3.9l/4.2l(LWB), BW 1361 (viscous coupler in the center diff).
93-95 will have ABS and airbag suspension - more stuff to go wrong and more expensive to fix, but the handling is way better than on earlier ones. Also, IIRC, in 93 the 10-spline diffs/axleshafts were changed to 24-splines. 95 will have serpentine belt arrangement similar to the Disco - it has some +s and -s, but overall it is simpler than V-belt setup. Replacing the p/s pump on an earlier Classic is a nightmare - but it's a walk in the park in the 95+.
As far as overall condition goes, look for telltales of poor maintenance - multiple oil leaks, coolant leaks, power steering leaks, oily/greasy swivel balls, etc. Lift carpet in a few places (need to unscrew the aluminum door sill panels) - you may see rust underneath. Mine was full of sand - the PO was a surfer dude, cutting every possible corner in maintenance and repair (which I didn't recognize until later). If you come across the gas receipts, see what grade gasoline the PO was using - regular may indicate a cheapskate.
Take a vacuum gauge and measure manifold vacuum while in gear, at 1800-2000 rpm (crank the parking brake to the max, and step on brake pedal very firmly). If the vacuum goes down to 2-5 inHg, it indicates melted/plugged cats and muffler = $$ and work.
Drive it around in traffic until temperature stabilizes - and see if it loses coolant. If it does, you are looking into one or more of the three: blown head gasket, cracked head/cylinder liner, or slipper liner. Head gasket isn't that difficult or time-consuming to replace and is a great bargaining point, but you'll never know which one of the three possibilities happened.

In a properly running RRC, all malfunction lights (e.g., EFI, Check Engine, Low Coolant, Transmission temp, etc.) should illuminate upon the start-up, and go off when the engine is started. If any of them doesn't come on, suspect it bypassed.

anyhow, rangerovers.net will have nearly all the info you need.

 

[Best4x4]

1. If it's an 89 to 95 RRC check the chain in the Transfer Box for slack. You can usually tell if the chain has slack in it when you step on the gas (around 55 to 70MPH) and let off you will hear a clicking grinding noise coming from down below the gear shifter.

2. If it has Air Suspension (93-95) check air bladders for leaks and test it's operation fully

3. Test the brakes on 90 and older RRC's you have non ABS brakes which are much less $$$ to repair. On 91 and up RRC's you have Full ABS brakes with a pump, sensors, and it's more $$$ to repair when something wears out.

4. Engine wise just check for varnish on the dipstick you don't want to get a rover with a sludged up motor! If you can away from the owner rev it up in Park and see how much smoke comes from the tailpipe if it's a lot the engine is probably carboned up.

5. Test all electric windows, sunroof, and look for any spliced or repaired main wiring harnesses.

My personal favorite RRC years are 89, 90, 91, 92, and 95. In 89 you got the borg warner T-Box and the 3.9L V8, 90 got a raised fuel door, 91 got ABS brakes, 92 got a few new accesories, and 95 got a totally redesigned dash (which is a shame it was only produced one year!) If I was looking for a RRC that would make me truely happy I would search for a 95 RRC SWB. LWB models came out in 93, but I prefer the SWB for better off-roading.

Tad

 

[simon]

hey... my best bet would be RUST.. pull those carpets specially under the driver's side for some reason every time I see a disco and a rrc of the same year the rrc is more rusty.

good luck!

Simon
96 Disco 5 speed white
96 Disco 5 Speed grey
96 disco 5 Speed Blue
1995 RRC 25 year edition

 

[Iron Boots]

My personal favorite RRC years are 89, 90, 91, 92, and 95. In 89 you got the borg warner T-Box and the 3.9L V8, 90 got a raised fuel door, 91 got ABS brakes, 92 got a few new accesories, and 95 got a totally redesigned dash (which is a shame it was only produced one year!) If I was looking for a RRC that would make me truely happy I would search for a 95 RRC SWB. LWB models came out in 93, but I prefer the SWB for better off-roading.

Tad

I just wish the later rigs could be had with teh LT230...personally I like my '88 with the LT, as you can pick the earlier rigs up cheap and an engine swap to a 4.0 is cake. This is also my personal route and I have a complete shop to work in LOL!

I've wheeled with too many BW equipped RRC's and just seen the BW suck hind tit in a serious way when it comes to steep climbs. When it comes to most of the wheeling folks will do I think a BW with 90 weight in it will suffice from what I have seen.

RJ

 

[scrover]

im looking at maybe getting a classic and I was wondering what sorts of things do I need to watch out for and what kind of common problems I my run in to??????.....

Just find one that hasn't been abused - you're going to eventually replace everything so it doesn't really matter beyond that

SC
('93 LWB)

 

[kellymoe]

I concur with Steve. Find a cheap one in good shape. Living in California you have tons to choose from that are not rust buckets. Find the cheapest one that runs good because as Steve said you will eventualy be replacing everthing soon anyway. As to the engine waring lights that WILL eventualy come on on the dash, buy a roll of black electrical tape and cut piecse to size and stick over the lights as they come on . All joking aside I think the RR Classic is the best off road vehicle I have ever owned and I have had a D90 and now have a Disco and a 130. I would love to buy another RR for a project vehicle some day.

 

[skydiver]

I just wish the later rigs could be had with teh LT230...personally I like my '88 with the LT, as you can pick the earlier rigs up cheap and an engine swap to a 4.0 is cake. This is also my personal route and I have a complete shop to work in LOL!

RJ

RJ,

I've got an '88 myself. How easy is the 4.0 swap? My 3.5 has almost 150k on it.. not sure how much life is left.

-Tommy

 

[Iron Boots]

RJ,

I've got an '88 myself. How easy is the 4.0 swap? My 3.5 has almost 150k on it.. not sure how much life is left.

-Tommy

We just did the 4.0 on the other '88 in our stable and it was pretty simple...aside from the computer we reused all the ancillaries from the 3.5 lump. We used a 4.0 with 32k on it, got a new cam, new front cover and a few other do dads.

I have a 3.9 and a 3.5 staring at me these days and I am finally going to start the rebuild on the 3.9 ....Hren was telling us that muchos power can be gained from head work on the 3.9/4.0's...I'm itching to see how much excactly.

RJ

 

[nickangus]

thanx for the input


how do they handle on the road would be my next question????

nick

 

[AlanB]

They handle pretty good on the road if everything is up to snuff. They can also wander all over the road and have vague steering feel if things are not. Things that will need to be inspected or replaced will be all suspension bushings, coil springs, shocks, steering stabilizer, tie rod ends, adjusting or replaceing steering box, steering shaft u-joints, and probably some other stuff I missed. With an older classic you will have to replace everything sooner or later if you want good handling. If you lift it, any handling problems will be even more pronounced.

 

[kellymoe]

Be sure to check out www.rangerovers.net

 

[Iron Boots]

After driving a friends '94 with a coil conversion I know they can handle well....I have an '88 and they have no swaybars...it can be a handful if you're not familiar with it. If you are interested in a nice handling rig, stay with the later rigs with swaybars.

 

[nickangus]

ok so what kind of cost im I looking at to get a classic and fix it up vs getting a newer D1 ?????? or am I looking at the same basic deal for both????


thanx

nick

 

[Iron Boots]

buy the best one you can afford.

here's a $2500 RRC on a bad day...

Pretty on theoutside...

Some creepy stuff on the inside...