What’s a 14cux full tune up look like?

[Disco95]

Hi all,

The old 3.9’s still running strong, but lately I’ve been noticing longer cranking times and occasionally some idle stumbles. Things came to a head during this cold snap with a stall after a cold start and then a reluctant restart. No codes set.

I’d like to do a full tune up before I start chasing ghosts deeper in the system. Anything to add?

• Air filter
• plugs
• wires
• Cap
• Rotor (a friend told me “break the old one off—trust me”)
• coil(?)
• Ignition Module Amplifier black box (?)

Any of these parts I need to be picky about as far as genuine vs oem vs aftermarket?

Thanks,
joe b
pdx or
95 D1 v8 5sp 200k

 

[boxster]

You’ve probably heard this before but air, fuel and spark are the first things to look at. However the list you made are all potential to the major tune up. Maybe a compression test while you at it. Try to find the root cause of the no start before replacing anything.

 

[Disco95]

You’ve probably heard this before but air, fuel and spark are the first things to look at. However the list you made are all potential to the major tune up. Maybe a compression test while you at it. Try to find the root cause of the no start before replacing anything.

Thanks, boxster. Just to clarify. It did restart and then ran normally (and as an aside, did impressively well in the snow and ice, was expecting some weirdness from the ABS based on hearsay about these D1s, but never noticed it—maybe it’s not working lol). But it was a reminder to get on this before it gets worse. In my mind, taking that extra couple or few cranks to start usually means a weak spark, but I’m new to this system.

cheers,
joe b
pdx or

 

[4Runner]

Clean your IAC and unrelated but your PCV system too.

 

[Blueboy]

Rotor (a friend told me “break the old one off—trust me”)

This is a Tech Tip from Rovers North:

TECH TIP: V8 IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR
How to remove your V8 Ignition Distributor Rotor.

Removing an ignition rotor from a Land Rover V8 engine distributor can be frustrating and sometimes become a nightmare for some mechanics. The problem lies in removing the rotor. Most of the time you will find thatIt doesn't want to come off and is stuck. If you pull hard enough you can and will pull the distributor apart.

The way to get the rotor off is to heat it with a heat gun or break it with a pair of pliers and replace it with a new rotor, part number #RNI002. The use of never seize or lubricants will prevent this problem in the future. Our shop has found silicone grease to be the ideal solution.

Hold the star wheel down with a large flathead while you are pulling the rotor.

 

[4Runner]

I don’t run a LR distributor but I think you have to be extra careful when removing the rotor due to messing up the vacuum advance system. That’s also something to check. That you’r vacuum advance diaphragm isn’t leaking or working for that matter. Also the condition of your fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose.

 

[Blueboy]

Any of these parts I need to be picky about as far as genuine vs oem vs aftermarket?

Land Rover had a bad batch of rotors in the parts supply a while back. Suggest getting Powerspark rotor which I’m pretty sure RN sells.