Wheel Bearing Pre-Load

[LRDONE]

98 D1 - For tightening the wheel bearing nut and lock nut, Does 45ftlbs seem too tight? Or should I go off of feel and not worry too much about it? I'm chasing a grinding vibration on deceleration at higher speeds that becomes constant at 70mph and above. Accompanied by and intermittent unwanted ABS actuation. I just want to make sure I have these bearings set properly and Pro-demand isn't being very clear. Thanks.

** I've got a 2 inch lift and do not have caster correct arms so I know the diff could be coming out of line on sudden decel which I do know I've got a little bit of that going on. But the constant noise at 70mph plus concerns me.

 

[luckyjoe]

I had to dig through my archives for this one. Used it many times on Coiler hubs and rationalized Series hubs.

* * * * * * * * * * *
10-20-2010, 01:40 PM
This is the best non-dial-indicator method I have used (taken from David Gomes 60k Service on the D90 Source (http://www.d-90.com/faq/60kservice/main.html)). It’s especially nice if you do not keep a dial indicator in your on-board tool kit.

*****
Clean the stub axle with spray parts or carb cleaner and give it a light coating of wheel bearing grease. Especially the areas where the seal lips contact the stub axle. Slide the hub home and follow it with the outer bearing, washer, and hub nut. The latest procedure from Land Rover says the correct method for pre-loading these bearings is to follow this procedure:
1 - tighten inner nut to 37 ft lb. while spinning the hub
2 - back off the inner nut without disturbing the hub
3 - tighten the inner nut to 7 ft lb.
4 - place the tab washer on the stub axle
(I like to bias the tab washer in the clockwise direction with a finger while I hand tighten the outer hub nut so the tightening action of the outer nut doesn't further tighten the inner nut)
5 - place the outer nut on the stub axle and tighten to 37 ft lb.
6 - bend tab washer to lock both nuts in place
Replacement of the remainder of the parts is basically the reverse of the removal procedure. Keep everything clean and give the drive flange surface a light coating of Hylomar where it meets the hub before tightening the drive flange bolts.
*****

 

[LRDONE]

Awesome, I found another procedure that's pretty similar to this so I'm confident now. The first time I did this I did everything by feel so I think absolutely my bearings are loose. I'm probably going to inspect them now and make sure I didn't hurt anything. Lesson learned lol, Thank you.

 

[Gordo]

Damn you boys are all technical. I tighten them by feel. Basically tighten it up nice and tight, then back off a bit till it feels right and call it good. It’s worked for me that way for 25yrs. Never had an issue.

 

[discostew]

That seems tight. I’m with Gordo. I snug it while turning the rotor. On older cars with wheel bearings you pack with grease and tighten the same way, but back then with those bearings you snug them and then back the nut off a half flat of the nut. If you did these bearings like that they would be too loose. On these trucks you just snug it, don’t back it off that half flat.

 

[Flyfish]

D1 WSM

 

[LRDONE]

I did it by feel the first few times I had them a part with this tool. I had no way to torque it. So today I modified this so I can make sure everything is right. With the little bit of noise I have going on, I have to rule out the correctness of the wheel bearings.

 

[Tugela]

A few years ago I bought a 52mm (or 56, whatever the size is) impact socket. With two Rovers, I figured I'd use it enough to justify the purchase and history has shown it was a worthwhile investment. I can plug this into my torque wrench with an adapter and it grips the hub nuts securely.

 

[terryjm1]

Prior to my D1, I always did wheel bearings by feel. I must be getting old because that hasn’t worked for my first two attempts. I will be using the factory procedure and torque wrench next time.

 

[p m]

If you've done it before, you know the feel - you'll be fine.
Word of caution: do not reuse the previously-bent washer unless you absolutely have to. It is very hard to beat it back to flat shape, and if it is remotely non-flat, the inner nut will wobble itself loose.

 

[discostew]

Prior to my D1, I always did wheel bearings by feel. I must be getting old because that hasn’t worked for my first two attempts. I will be using the factory procedure and torque wrench next time.

It’s absolutely critical that the assembly is being rotated as it’s being snugged. I think the 4 nm that fly fish posted sounds about right. I never really thought to torque the thing cause they give up a socket that gets turned by an extension shoved thru a couple holes. Calibrated wrist kinda shit.

 

[Flyfish]

It’s absolutely critical that the assembly is being rotated as it’s being snugged

I usually tap it with a plastic mallet as I spin it on the initial torque spec. Then I know everything is fully seated. Then after I back it off the 90 degrees, I use feel instead of the 4lbs.

 

[discostew]

I usually tap it with a plastic mallet as I spin it on the initial torque spec. Then I know everything is fully seated. Then after I back it off the 90 degrees, I use feel instead of the 4lbs.

I disagree. Violently

 

[terryjm1]

“Word of caution: do not reuse the previously-bent washer unless you absolutely have to. It is very hard to beat it back to flat shape, and if it is remotely non-flat, the inner nut will wobble itself loose.”

I think this may be the root of my problem…

And perhaps this;

”It’s absolutely critical that the assembly is being rotated as it’s being snugged.”

Hopefully the 3rd time is the charm with these lessons learned.