Where to find Waxoyl??? Anything cheaper/better???

[1995-Disco-I]

Hey guys... after taking a closer look at my D-II's today... I'm about to do a lift, etc on one... I notice the undersides, mainly the frames of both are pretty rusty... The one getting the lift in particular... as it has a hole in the frame about the size of a $1 folded in half right next to the pass side cat... I'm having a friend that has a mobile repair/welding company plate the affected area... It is not that bad but i want to stop all this where it is... And i hear that Waxoyl is the best...

Where can i find this stuff... I see sites all over the UK... but not really anything here in the US... I did see that RoversNorth has some... but $$$

I see others using many a different type of guns to spray the stuff... but is there anything else that is just as good about not just preventing rust but stopping what is already there???...

If i end up buying the Waxoyl from RNorth... How much does one vehicle as i will be doing (2)!!!...

Thanks a bunch guys!!!

 

[DiscoS2]

I spray used motor oil and or transmission fluid inside the frame and under my D1 every year. It has certainly slowed the progression of rust. I think if I weren't so lazy and did it every 3-4 months, the rust would virtually stop. The best part is it's free.
Lately, I started spot-spraying with this anti-corrosion oil from Big Lots for $2 a can. We'll see how that works. It's thicker than WD-40, but thinner than lithium spray grease.

 

[capri_auto]

I just bought 3 cans of amsoil hd metal protector, same stuff as waxoil http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/amh.aspx

I scrapped the loose rust off my d2 frame and sprayed this stuff to try to slow down the progression.

 

[NoVaKevin]

I 2nd the use of used oil. The only area on my d2 that looked perfect was the 3foot raduis around the tcase where fluid had been leaking for a long time. It provided a solid coating.

Covering rusted areas with waxoyl will not cure the problem or inhibit the formation of rust. You need to cover it with rust inhibitor, fix the rust, or use a por15 type of substance. Fom what I know, por15 actually needs rust to be most effective in adhering and stopping the spread and preventing future rust.

 

[turbodave]

I've used waxoyl many, many time when I was growing up in England.

I would never contemplate trying to do it in less than 65 degree weather. You want the metal, the waxoyl, everythign to be as warm as possible...

Also bear in mind that waxoyl applied on top of salt-spray inside your chassis is useless.

For these reasons, I'd leave the waxoyl till summer. You need to clean the inside of your chassis very well - which means drilling a few more holes in the underside. Get in there and flush profusely with tap water.
Once totally dry, get the waxoyl warm by immersing in a bucket of water. Then start spraying, startign at the top, and working down. You'll quickly see why holes a minimum of every 16" are essential.
When done, you need to poke through the holes to make sure they are clear.

Note - waxoyl will not kill rust.... i repeat NOT.

here is a possible supplier: http://www.englishparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=5812&ukey_product=3847

 

[DiscoJen]

Do a search for Waxoyl on here (do it from the main forum page so it includes all vehicle forums). APG has a recipe listed to make your own similar product using toilet bowl wax rings and Bars chainsaw oil I believe.

Definately wait till warmer weather and use the winter downtime to inhibit/repair the existing rust.

 

[specops1526]

Why not try a rust converter spray or paint on liquid? Once the rust is converted then you can spray whatever you want on it, I would assume.

 

[Roving Beetle]

Drill extra holes first.

It's a nasty process (be VERY careful) but I have used a 360 degree spray tip gun and "Ospho" to clean the frame out and etch it, let it dry and then used Wurth Rust Guard (like POR15 but thicker and better in my opinion) with an undercoating gun to get 360 degrees inside the frame. Drill a few more holes and soak everything, it will make a mess!

After a couple days drying in a warm shop i then coat the inside of the frame with Wurth body cavity saver - but any old oil/waxoil/etc will work. I have seen the bar and chain oil/wax mix and it seems VERY good. Cheap and easy to make too.

The good thing is that by doing the Wurth or POR15 or similar paint inside first it really slows down the rust almost to a halt and the oil then can do a better job of simply sealing the small stuff.

 

[Jkid]

My frame had some crazy rust flaking off of it. I used an air chisel (I wish I had a needle scaler) to knock it all off first and I ended up with 2 very big piles of rust. After a good power washing and drying, I used my electric sprayer to spray bar and chain oil all over the undercarriage(warmed up the oil on my baseboard heater first). I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. I used almost a gallon of oil and I'm amazed at how little dripped off during and after. It just stuck to the metal when I sprayed and it turns the rust almost black after a week or so. It may have helped that it was pretty cold outside when I did it so that the oil/wax thickened right up when it hit the metal.

I like to use fluid film for the spots here and there that I couldn't reach or didn't want to cover in oil.

I haven't figured out a good way to spray inside the frame yet. There are numerous holes along the frame to get in there. I tried a garden sprayer to spray inside the holes, but the oil was too thick for it. Mixing in some diesel fuel helped it spray a lot better, but it turned into a very messy job.

I plan on doing this every spring and fall, at 6 bucks a gallon and about 20 minutes to spray that's hard to beat. If I hadn't done anything I think my frame would be gone in 5-10 years.

 

[jarbar1]

I have a Disco 2, 2000. Although there is little rust--I would like to stop what I have. There is a powder coat shop up the road from me. The quoted me 175$ to blast and powder coat the chassis and appropriate under carriage etc. I have also heard of waxoyl. I am sorry to pose a question with a question, but would any of you have any advice about the route I am considering? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[n8thgr8]

"Navy Jelly" is pretty popular on Guam for converting rust, I've never used it personally, but I've heard good things. Those guys in the Pacific know their rust stuff too...
Anyone tried it?

 

[DiscoPhoto]

I've used Waxoyl quite extensively(always bought from RoversNorth) and wouldn't live without it. It is important to use it BEFORE the rust starts(it only slows it down if you use it afterwards, doesn't stop it). It is a great product though, I will use it on all of my vehicles. Vermont rusts cars like a boss.

 

[jarbar1]

I have used naval jelly on small parts, in my opinion its a little rough, it is mostly phosphoric acid, alcohol and a small amount of sulphuric acid--so Gloves, eye protection and ventilation are a must! It is a rust dissolver and will stop rust, I always follow up with sanpdpaper or wire wheel to get to fresh metal. I didn't think about using it on my truck but it's a good product, it's worth a shot.

 

[riceybean]

I use JP Weigle frame saver, its a steel bike frame rust inhibitor that works very well.

http://www.treefortbikes.com/product/333222339240/351/JP-Weigles-Frame-Saver-Aerosol.html

 

[apg]

If you already have rust, the best/easiest stuff to use is Ospho - essentially phosphoric acid - that converts rust (iron oxide) into iron phosphate. It's available at most paint stores. Wire brush the rust and paint the Ospho on; it's as thin as water and turns the rust black as it dries.

Now a cheap alternative for Waxoyl is to heat up a gallon of chainsaw bar oil (which has that 'clingy' additive) and dissolve a wax toilet seal ring in it. (That's sticky too....) Spray whilst warm and/or thin with a bit of mineral spirits that will evaporate away. The thing with Waxoyl and this mixture is creep: it has the ability to recover places where it has been scraped off. I used a spray wand kit from JC Whitless that came with "undercoating" that I threw away. Mind you, the stuff is messy and sticky, but that's what you want. It also makes a passable flame-thrower....

There are a slew of store-bought rust preventers out there (LPS-3 comes to mind, but you buy that at marine supply place$) but rust never sleeps. Do it regularly.

Cheers

 

[Timmy!!!!!!!]

I wish there was a place around here that treated cars. I think my rovers rust issues have become increasingly worse being on the gulf coast and having salt air coming off Lake Pontchartrain

 

[listerdiesel]

Look for an equivalent to Shell Ensis Fluid.

Castrol make this sort of stuff industrially, we bought a 25-litre drum, I'll check the details later and post back.

Peter

 

[RoverbyProxy]

Eastwood has this http://www.eastwood.com/ew-rust-encapsulator-w-ext-nozzle-black.html. A friend of mine uses it to spray inside his frame rails of cars he restores, swears by it

 

[listerdiesel]

Castrol Rustilo DWX33

http://www.castrol.com.ua/catalog/Rustilo DWX 32.pdf

Peter

 

[kferg]

http://www.fluid-film.com/
I use Fluid-film to coat the frame and underbody seams each year. It is a great preventative and will stop rust from progressing. No rust at all from beach driving.