Which Hi-Lift jack should I get 48" or 60."

CRASH05

Well-known member
Apr 29, 2004
381
0
Manasquan NJ
This may be the stuipidest question ever posted, but I want to get a Hi-lift Jack, but I am really not sure which one to get the 48" or the 60" More D1 is just slightly lifted if that matters.
 

utahdog2003

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
1,842
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North Florida
bri said:
Get 60 otherwise eventually you will have 2 like me.

I prefer the 48

but get either...you'll wind up with two anyway. Plus some spare parts...a repair kit or two, and a box full of related crap like jack-mates and choke chains etc...

best bet is to go to the HiLift web page, make a list, and then buy one of everything! :D
 
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Disco Mike

Guest
Go for the 48", it will do everything you need and is hard enough to store, have you ever tried to store something 5 feet long, especially if you don't have a rack?
Mike J.
 

CaptainSpalding

Well-known member
May 2, 2004
66
0
Depends. . .

CRASH05 said:
This may be the stuipidest question ever posted, but I want to get a Hi-lift Jack, but I am really not sure which one to get the 48" or the 60" More D1 is just slightly lifted if that matters.
If your suspension is stockish, you can get away with a 48 inch jack. If you have loads of articulation, the 60 might be better. In either case, get a Lift Mate too. More useful than anything in the Hi-Lift accessory kit, IMHO.

lm-100.jpg
 

utahdog2003

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
1,842
0
North Florida
you mean someone got their Tahoe stuck in the driveway again? After you jacked her up, what did you use to get her out...Carpet Strips?
 

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
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La Jolla, CA
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After seeing a number of times how the 48" jack strut bends under load, I'd be very hesitant to go with a 60". On my jeep, 48" hi-lift maxes out (when used under the bumper support bracket) before the wheel lifts off the ground - but that doesn't mean a 60" is a solution. Rather, a chunk of a 6x6 under the jack base.
 
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billmallin

Guest
Well, there was a time when I was in a bad way.

I was in some nasty slick crap on the side of a very deep and very wide ditch. Probably 20' deep and about 50' wide. At the top of the ditch was a dirt path for maintenance vehicles to drive. Not a problem when dry, but in this nasty shit, it was a mess. The path was sloped slightly in the direction of the ditch... so I was basically at 10-15 degrees tilted as I drove.

Well, I started to slide a bit. Then a bit more. As I tried to move forward, I slid sideways. I was at 15psi, but it was a mess. Next thing I know, I am on the edge of going into the ditch.

I hooked the winch up to tree off the side of the path, but when I started pulling, the ass end started sliding into the ditch more as the front was being pulled out.

Fuck!

So, I hooked up a chain to my receiver shackle in the rear and ran a chain from it to the high lift. Then a tree strap and some more chain around a tree towards the back of the truck connected to the other end of the highlift. Winch... jack... winch... jack... winch... jack... to basically pull the truck up out of the ditch sideways.

This was all fine and well till I ran out of jack and had to re-rig the fucker. It was a 48" jack. The process then became winch... jack... winch... jack... winch... jack... re-rig the jack, winch... jack... winch... jack... winch... jack... re-rig the jack, winch... jack... winch... jack... winch... jack... re-rig the jack and so on.

Get the 60"... and get a Jack Mate!
 
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billmallin

Guest
Well no shit.

You think I wanted to be pulling that heavy fucking truck out of that situation by hand?

Duh...
 
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beowulf

Guest
I got the 48" just because it was easier to store inside the truck ( no external mounting points available to me yet ). I have used to to lift the truck to break suction in mud and have practicied with it as a hand-winch (although I haven't had to use it in real service yet). I admit that if I needed to hand-winch in the real world the extra foot of space before resetting would be nice, but if I'm doing that I'm not going anywhere fast anyway so it's not a big deal. Durability wise, I have never had a moment that I've felt the 48" was not strong enough to do what I was asking it to, and I've seen these used on the farm and on the trail doing some pretty amazing things.

Price wise the cost difference is fairly small, so if you have the space to carry the 60" go for that. No real valid reason to skimp here unless you're on a VERY tight budget. Either way, proper accessories make all the difference. Straps, shackles, chain, tarp, etc. The most important accessory with any tool like this is knowledge. You probably already know, but it never hurts to remind that a HiLift is deadly, especially under the stresses we can put them under as a Rover owner. Never get a body part between that arm and the jack, etc.
 

bri

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
6,184
155
US
Disco Mike said:
Go for the 48", it will do everything you need and is hard enough to store, have you ever tried to store something 5 feet long, especially if you don't have a rack?
Mike J.
Yes it fits from the rear door to the passenger seat. I put some foam in there so it doesn't damage the seat. Tie it down.

Or there are numerous external locations, which is really what you want for either jack.
 

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
15,651
869
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La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
billmallin said:
Well no shit.
You think I wanted to be pulling that heavy fucking truck out of that situation by hand?

Bill, my own experience includes pulling a K5 with the front wheels off the side of the trail (on the mountainside), and my jeep from snow. Both were very negative, and both - fraught with disaster. So I got myself a 2-ton chain hoist, for this very purpose - it is just as heavy as the jack, but takes less space and the chain is by far longer than the jack strut. I keep it in the box with the snow chains.
 

Gordo

Well-known member
60 inch

I agree with Bill. I got stuck in some nasty mud out hunting with my Dad once. I was trying to avoid getting high center as I knew it was ugly on the way in. Anyway, I used the high lift to pick up the truck enough to put wood underneath the tires, then dug out the front diff and used two straps to hand winch the truck until it was as tight as possible. I then drove the truck about 18 inches and then wrapped the strap between recovery points and handwinched again. It took about 5 times to finally free the truck but I was thanking the good Lord that I had a 60 inch HighLift on board... Of course be sure your straps and recovery points are in good order. gordo