window wont roll up

[DiscoKids]

96. d1 front window passenger side
I have read other post about this topic but none seem to help me.

It will roll down. but not up.
I can hear the motor working when I try to roll it up.
I have the panel off the door already.
How do I tell if it needs the sliders/regulator/or window lift ecu?

Thanks

 

[michaels]

the regulator (metal scissor thing) will be all fucked up looking if it broke.

 

[DiscoKids]

I did notice that the little circular plastic thing that goes around the metal at the bottom of the scissor lookin thing at the bottom is broken. Could that make the window not go up?

 

[KevLar]

Re: window won't roll up

I did notice that the little circular plastic thing that goes around the metal at the bottom of the scissor lookin thing at the bottom is broken. Could that make the window not go up?

Hmmm... DiscoWeb will not allow me to upload any pictures for some reason, so please go to the link below and download the file I uploaded for you. It contains two pictures of the right front regulator assembly. Once you have the pics, use a picture editor to mark up exactly what/where the damage is so we can have some idea of the problem. The description you provided is not helpful in identifying the damage... Also, you should download a copy of the RAVE CD. In situations like this one, you could look up the regulator there and then post a screen capture of the drawing, again, marked up to show the damage.

http://rapidshare.com/files/302963721/RF_Regulator_Ass_y.zip

Meanwhile, I suspect that your problem is a broken roller wheel because these are always the first things to fail. This white plastic roller wheel is pinned to the end of the regulator scissor and rides inside the track bolted to the bottom of the window. These wheels are made of crappy plastic and fail easily over time. If your window is going down but not up, that would be an indication that gravity is pulling the window down as the regulator folds up, but there is no longer a connection between the scissor and the window to raise it up. I have replaced the rollers of all 4 doors of my '96 over the past 2 years... There are simple and cheap ways of replacing the broken wheels with stuff you can easily find at a hardware store. I have a detailed procedure for the repair I did, and there are other people that have their solutions too.

Get back to us with the marked up pictures !

Kev

 

[inhUMaine]

I did notice that the little circular plastic thing that goes around the metal at the bottom of the scissor lookin thing at the bottom is broken. Could that make the window not go up?

Yes, things will bind up without the roller. As Kevlar has said and done, there are cheap solutions to this instead of purchasing the whole regulator assembly. I picked up a pack of nylon wheels for a sliding glass bathtub door at home depot. It was about $3-4 and works fine. WAY cheaper than a new assembly

 

[KevLar]

Yes, things will bind up without the roller. As Kevlar has said and done, there are cheap solutions to this instead of purchasing the whole regulator assembly. I picked up a pack of nylon wheels for a sliding glass bathtub door at home depot. It was about $3-4 and works fine. WAY cheaper than a new assembly

Can you post the part number of the wheels you used ? Since many people have a Home Despot in their vicinity, it might be handy to have the exact item.

A few questions:
How well do your wheels fit inside the track (tight or sloppy fit) ?
How did you fasten the new wheel to the scissor arm ?

I used similar rollers that I found on the net (#25389 - Roller, Wardrobe Door, 1" Wheel, 1/4" Offset (sold for $3.82 per pair)

http://www.allaboutdoors.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=25&products_id=25389&osCsid=17a58421c117523c91c7ffc379d4316f

While the roller diameter was only about 1 mm too small, the size of the hole was perfect for a 5/16" x 18 NC bolt that I used to replace the original press fitted pin. The one problem with this particular wheel was that they were too thick for the track, so I had to thin them down a little before they would slide into the track.
Also, the 5/16" bolts I used were pretty specific in that they have a 1/4" shoulder. The shoulder acts like a spacer and stops the bolt from tightening against and thus pinching the wheel. Ideally I would have used the same bolt, but with a fine thread, unfortunately they are not readily available.

I'd be interested in the details of your method. While my method is pretty good, I think there are a few things that could be made simpler, not the least of which is having to order hard to find rollers on the net.

Thanks !

Kev

 

[inhUMaine]

i cant remember the part number or find anything similar on home depot's website, but on your website it was this: http://www.allaboutdoors.com/produc...18003&osCsid=17a58421c117523c91c7ffc379d4316f
it wasn't the ideal solution. It was a little sloppy, and i had to file it down to make it thinner. It was in a pack of 4 rollers, two were 7/8 diameter, and two were smaller. They had rounded edged rollers and square edged, i picked up the pack that had the square edge. It may not last forever and it was a pain to thin down the roller, but it sure did save me some money. I also put on the tinniest dab of locktight on the threads of the screw because i was afraid of it coming unscrewed. The roller spins freely. i may have also used a washer behind the screw head due to the size of the hole after i grinded off the old stud. I can't remember if the hole was too big for the screw or not.

 

[KevLar]

OK, thanks for the info. Yes, I think a 7/8" wheel would be pretty sloppy because the stock wheel is 26 mm which is about 1/32" over 1 inch, but at least it works The last window I repaired using a piece of nylon board (similar to kitchen cutting board). I used a hacksaw to cut out a square piece and then undercut the sides. Filed the whole thing to smooth the cuts and then drilled out and countersank a hole in the middle for the pin. I would have used one of the nylon wheels I bought, but I spent 3 days looking for them and I have no idea where I put them... I had bought enough to do all 4 doors so I know I will come across them eventually, but for now the nylon block works perfectly.
The hardest part of the repair is replacing the rivet/pin. I found that using a bolt with a nut cut to half its thickness was the simplest way to go, and about as strong as you'd need to carry the load of the window. The first window I had to fix was the driver's door 2 years ago and it's still working perfectly. I just closed up the driver's door on the weekend after rebuilding the power lock actuator - I should have checked the condition of the roller while I was in there but didn't think of it.
Cheers !
Kev

 

[colddude]

Hi KevLar

Can you post the procedure? I am dealing with the same issue but rear door window, driver side, got the door trim panel removed but unsure what to do next. I did find a procedure in the TECH section, I can't seem to follow it but I've never done this before.

Thanks!