Another new to me is 2002 D2 with a few issues I'm trying to sort. I call her "Crisco" on the account I overheated her on the maiden voyage around the block. Not sure if it's best to post them all in one or break them into parts, so going to add them all here and modify them if necessary.
Rear Passenger Window Issue
I rolled the window down and couldn't get it back up (that's what she said). Removed the door panel per recommendation through some research in the various forums to check the actuator. I believe the motor is working and getting power. I checked over everything and didn't see anything indicating the window had come off the bracket or wheels had broken. I gave the actuator arm a little push-up, and that forced the gear to move. I then hit the button to roll the window up, and it worked; however, when it gets to the top, the motor doesn't stop trying to go up or down when I roll it down. Do I need a new actuator arm, a new motor, or both? Including a video so you can see/hear what's going on in the door internals. I think it's the actuator, but the fact it seems like something is clicking makes me think it's the motor and gear in the motor that's slipping.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iD1qdMiCckIEeh33Bou5_Vn_Fta42rPC/view?usp=sharing
Leaking Fluids
I'm getting a small leak from the bolt on the front of the transmission fluid pan and another what looks like an oil leak coming from the area circled in red in the image. Should I replace the washer and plug screw for the trans fluid or add some silicone tape to the existing plug, screw it back in and call it a day? For the other leak, it looks a lot more involved. Lots of what looks like RTV on the bottom plate but no drip from there that I can tell. Not even sure where to start with what I would need to fix that leak.
Head Gasket Just Cause?
I overheated like an idiot. I didn't check the coolant level before taking off. Test drove it before purchase and had it towed to me. When it showed up, I hopped in and took off without the preflight check. Only went around the block, less than a quarter mile. I heard the belt squeal, I looked at the temp gauge, and it was red, so I pulled over and shut her down. I isolated the leak to the water pump (or so I think), so I'm replacing it along with a host of other things. The car has 150K on it, and I was debating if I should replace the head gaskets and accompanying seals that come with the kit from AB while fixing the other items. The car is not experiencing any signs of head gasket failure that I'm aware of, no chocolate milk oil, white smoke from the exhaust, etc. I haven't opened it up yet, so I can't say definitively, but that's just what I know to look for. I've spent more time than I'd like to wiping down the endless layers of gunk off the engine and every other part that is covered before I start replacing things so I can see any drips or leaks. I've seen recommendations to replace the HG's around this milage and especially with the overheat so I guess I'm looking for some reinforcement on my thought to go for it or move on. Any help is appreciated.
Rear Passenger Window Issue
I rolled the window down and couldn't get it back up (that's what she said). Removed the door panel per recommendation through some research in the various forums to check the actuator. I believe the motor is working and getting power. I checked over everything and didn't see anything indicating the window had come off the bracket or wheels had broken. I gave the actuator arm a little push-up, and that forced the gear to move. I then hit the button to roll the window up, and it worked; however, when it gets to the top, the motor doesn't stop trying to go up or down when I roll it down. Do I need a new actuator arm, a new motor, or both? Including a video so you can see/hear what's going on in the door internals. I think it's the actuator, but the fact it seems like something is clicking makes me think it's the motor and gear in the motor that's slipping.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iD1qdMiCckIEeh33Bou5_Vn_Fta42rPC/view?usp=sharing
Leaking Fluids
I'm getting a small leak from the bolt on the front of the transmission fluid pan and another what looks like an oil leak coming from the area circled in red in the image. Should I replace the washer and plug screw for the trans fluid or add some silicone tape to the existing plug, screw it back in and call it a day? For the other leak, it looks a lot more involved. Lots of what looks like RTV on the bottom plate but no drip from there that I can tell. Not even sure where to start with what I would need to fix that leak.
Head Gasket Just Cause?
I overheated like an idiot. I didn't check the coolant level before taking off. Test drove it before purchase and had it towed to me. When it showed up, I hopped in and took off without the preflight check. Only went around the block, less than a quarter mile. I heard the belt squeal, I looked at the temp gauge, and it was red, so I pulled over and shut her down. I isolated the leak to the water pump (or so I think), so I'm replacing it along with a host of other things. The car has 150K on it, and I was debating if I should replace the head gaskets and accompanying seals that come with the kit from AB while fixing the other items. The car is not experiencing any signs of head gasket failure that I'm aware of, no chocolate milk oil, white smoke from the exhaust, etc. I haven't opened it up yet, so I can't say definitively, but that's just what I know to look for. I've spent more time than I'd like to wiping down the endless layers of gunk off the engine and every other part that is covered before I start replacing things so I can see any drips or leaks. I've seen recommendations to replace the HG's around this milage and especially with the overheat so I guess I'm looking for some reinforcement on my thought to go for it or move on. Any help is appreciated.
Last edited: