Years to avoid?

[Kerr]

hello all,

Im looking into picking up a Disco for a winter vehicle and to mostley wheel. While im not looking for a show truck i dont want to be replacing parts ever time i go out either. I know that with ever car there are certain years you want to advoid because of bugs the factory didnt know about. So any sugestion on what to stay away from would be grate. Like i said before im not looking for a low milage show truck, but at the same time i dont want one with the reliability of my last jeep either.

Also i have noticed very few are 5 speeds, is this a plus or minus in your minds. I know from reading about the D-90 that they had issues with there 5 speeds. is this a problem with the disco's?

thanks for you time,

Shawn

 

[justinhaaga]

98-99 is the best years on the disco I.

Just make sure you get a maintenance history regardless of year.

I've had 2 '96 first one was a major problem, didn't get records - thought it was ok cuz it only had 69k mi . The second got records and it's been solid for 1 year 12K mi strong.

 

[billmallin]

I'd avoid anything between 1994 and 2004.

 

[beowulf]

Avoid any trucks made on a Friday. Avoid any parts assembled after the workers got back from the pub.

Seriously though...there is a LOT of variation present in the trucks. Some people here say to avoid anything older than a D2. Others complain about the D2s as much as the D1s. It really depends on the individual truck I think. I have a '96 I pick up with about 40k on the clock. Once I tracked down all the previous-owner neglects (there were a lot of them) I have only had standard maintenance on it. I now have about 145k and have not suffered many of the problems others complain about with this vintage ( lifter issues, etc ). Of course, I also sought out a base model because we've had enough issues with sun roof leaks on other vehicles and try to avoid those things any chance we can. If I was starting out again and was going to do all my own work (which I try to do with the '96) I may have gotten an older one just for the ease of working on a carborated engine. Still, I like my 4.0 and it's treated me well so far. I still think the later D1s are some of the best designed for self-maintance and trail functionality.

One lesson learned which I think should be seriously considered: Unless you're buying a "certified" one already, spend the $100 or so to have a LR dealer give a full nose-to-tail inspection prior to purchase. I didn't think of this for mine and was a bit surprised by some of the thigns they found when I did end up having this done after about a year of ownership. Even if you like the truck and get a good deal, such an inspection (and the estimate they give you for fixing everything ) would give you some bargining power to negotiate the price down a bit if you want.

"Yeah, that's a good price but it looks like I'm going to have to put in $2000 just to bring it up to snuff. How about knocking $1500 off the price and you have a deal."

 

[syoung]

The horror stories about engines that eat heads, slipped sleeves, endless valve jobs... Then you hear people say don't buy this and don't buy that...
You've asked such a horribly difficult question that is going to get you a lot of varied anwers. Someone will say 'avoid the 94/95' and then someone else will say they have one and it's been perfect, so avoid the 96 or something... then someone will say they have one and it is perfect. You know what I mean...
Condition is everything- records are important because they don't lie like people who are selling a truck. Believe NOTHING anyone says, especially dealers. They'll buy one at auction for next to nothing and then tell you it's a one owner trade blah blah. Let the paperwork and a physical inspection by a Rover tech drive the decision.
FWIW- my 95 hasn't had any major repairs, ever. Most expensive part so far was an alternator at 90K and second most was O2 sensors at 100K.

 

[96DiscoSE7]

yea, what steve said

 

[Rocky]

I'd consider buying d1 94, 95 until 12/31/94 build date, then 98-99

LR pushed up production first quarter 1995 and everything went to hell.
Thanks BMW

 

[RangeRoverHP]

I'd avoid anything between 1994 and 2004.

LOL

 

[auclutch]

thanks for the post OP. I myself have been wondering this as I had the chance to buy either a 95 or a 96 at the dealership. I ended up getting the 95 just because it had better paint and because he gave me such a great deal on it. either way, good to hear that there aren't certain years that are especially problematic and even better to hear that that year wasn't 95.

AUCLUTCH

 

[syoung]

I find my 95 REALLY easy to work on... I think it's a great year for the Disco.

 

[Gordo]

I like the 94-95

When I went after a disco I wanted a 94 or 95 as I like the proven 3.9 and the fact that I knew the set up the best from owning a classic too. (which by the way has well over 200k) I bought a 94 with records and it has 133k now and it runs and drives great. There are things I dont like about it like the rotoflex joint in the rear but that can be easily changed. I agree that everyone has there own opinion but 94-95 or 98-99 D1 would be my first choice. 96-97 had the valve problems the most and DIIs cost too much for a trail toy. By the way I think the 5spds are the same as the D90 but dont quote me. Gordo.

 

[Timmy!!!!!!!]

I'd consider buying d1 94, 95 until 12/31/94 build date, then 98-99

LR pushed up production first quarter 1995 and everything went to hell.
Thanks BMW

man i am glad my got built in sept. of 94 oh hey auclutch are you in auburn. if so good luck this weekend. but just remember 12

 

[Kerr]

Thanks for the info guys, ill continue to look for one. I might have found a 98 but i cant get the guy to call me back. its just setting out side his business. tags expired april 03. Its a coil company head quarters, so i dont know if its broekn or they just decided to buy someting else.

 

[MUSKYMAN]

love my 94 its got 120k of really problem free life and I drive it like I stold it(I did ) every day of its life.

and my second is a 2001 DII withe the CDL nipple I just bought it cheap with 50k on it and plan to drive it on the street for a number of years then it will turn into a trail truck.

I looked at dozens and dozens of trucks to find each of them and avoided all kinds of lurking problems by doing so. if someone lets little stuff go they very often let the big things like oil changes slide.

rule #1

never buy a car or truck with a jiffy lube sticker in the window

good luck

Thom